Building an IC69 Heat Exchanger

This thread is going to be about the IC69, a Stainless Steel replacement for the MT69.

The IC69 is a simple heat exchanger to be used between a recovery pump and the solvent storage tank.

For the project we will need 25' - 50' of 3/8" or 1/2" stainless in a coil.

BEST PLACE FOR THE CUSTOMIZABLE COIL!!!!
http://stainlessbrewing.3dcartstore...s-request-035-304304L-Coiled-Tubing_p_30.html

To this coil we will attach two ball valves.
http://www.paramountsupply.com/products_valves_ball_stainless_steel.php (which of these Apollo 76-x00 sieres ball valve is best? They are all priced around $55).

In order to attach the ball valves we will need stainless steel compression fittings.
http://www.homebrewing.org/12-MPT-x-38-Compression-Fitting-SS_p_3359.html
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.com/flareless_compression_fittings_s/2018.htm


We will also need adapters to get our ball valves connected to our 1/4" recovery lines.
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.com/Stainless_Steel_Adapters_s/2003.htm
http://www.stainlesssteelfittings.com/Male_JIC_AN_to_Pipe_adapter_stainless_2404_p/ss-2404.htm

I will keep editing this post to add links and account for any feed back!!!
Right now I am thinking
(A) 25' 3/8" coil connected to
(B) SS compression to 3/8" or 1/4" male NPT connected to
(C) 3/8" or 1/4" Apollo ball vale other side of ball valve connected to
(D) 3/8" or 1/4" male pipe x male 1/4" or 3/8" Jic/an (37*)

Please help me find the best stuff for the job at the best price.

Paramount has a list of "Skunk Pharm Parts" I think these ball valves and addaptors will work nicely for us.
https://www.paramountsupply.com/online_ordering/skunk_pharm.php

Im in the middle of the build now but ill give you the gist of it.
First you need a stainless steel stock pot such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BTMWWOU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419406839&sr=8-1
Then you can contact countless brew supply warehouses to see if they custom bend their SS. I went with NYBrewSupply out of CT who has a nice email customer support, but seems to only call you back...but ok. Tell them you want your OD of the 3/8 .028 SS coil to be slightly smaller than your pots diameter and keep in mind how thick your insulation will be when telling them how long you want your ends to be straight. You don't want your ball valve to be inside your insulation. Your also going to tell them where you want your ends coming out. One of my ends is out the side, an inch front the top and the other end is coming out the bottom off center somewhere. I also have a 3/8 nipple welded for a drain port in the center check Grainger, Paramount, maybe Parker has them, I with Grainger
http://m.grainger.com/mobile/produc...s+steel+thrd+one+end?sst=subset&fromPidp=true
Have the 2 ends from the SS coil threaded with male pipe thread and the nipple for the drain be male NPT so you can attach your ball valve straight to it. Grab 3 ball valves from your choice, as my choice was Paramount Supply's 1000# Ball valve
https://www.paramountsupply.com/onl...c5=TC-02X&search_for=valves_tachen_ball_tc02x
Bring the pot and coil to a welder and tell them where you want your 3 holes and welds.
Then for an insulation I will quote GW himself:
"We're using a thin walled stock pot too. Just takes more care attaching the thin wall to the thicker walled Schedule 40 couplings, and you have to hold on to the couplings, when you tighten the fittings in them..

I bought the neoprene foam at Gaskets Unlimited in 3/4" X 48" X 72" sheets @ $104. I use two layers, and it is available in thicker sheets, but it is easier to put on in layers, especially to overlap seams."
Find a size that fits the pot you buy, I chose to acknowledge where my ports are and neoprene from there down but you can cut and paste as you please. Couplings I have not picked out yet. I most likely will go with something from Grainger. If they don't have something worth while I will go with Swagelok due to my lack of knowledge on couplings.

Jcoltrane made one with triclamp fittings. Hopefully he will post some pics here.

http://www.amazon.com/HomeBrewStuff-Stainless-Steel-Tubing-Coil/dp/B00420V094

Here is a link for a 3/8" X 50' coil.

Gray Wolf said:

http://www.amazon.com/HomeBrewStuff-Stainless-Steel-Tubing-Coil/dp/B00420V094

Here is a link for a 3/8" X 50' coil.

Click to expand...

Looks great! Do you think the valves and adapters in the "Skunk Pharm Parts" will do the trick? I am now thinking 3/8" ball valves.

I bought the neoprene foam at Gaskets Unlimited in 3/4" X 48" X 72" sheets @ $104. I use two layers, and it is available in thicker sheets, but it is easier to put on in layers, especially to overlap seams."
Find a size that fits the pot you buy, I chose to acknowledge where my ports are and neoprene from there down but you can cut and paste as you please. Couplings I have not picked out yet. I most likely will go with something from Grainger. If they don't have something worth while I will go with Swagelok due to my lack of knowledge on couplings.

Click to expand...

Why insulate the IC69? It is being built as a heat exchanger and I want the coil interacting with large amounts of water to help pull heat out of the recovered solvent as it is returned to the recovery tank.

Hydrosun said:

Why insulate the IC69? It is being built as a heat exchanger and I want the coil interacting with large amounts of water to help pull heat out of the recovered solvent as it is returned to the recovery tank.

Click to expand...

The coil is going to sit inside the pot. The pot needs To keep cold and not freeze to whatever its sitting on.

Let me just place this here and save you guys a bunch of work...... Can't beat the price either.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131309251397?lpid=82

thepanda said:

Let me just place this here and save you guys a bunch of work...... Can't beat the price either.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131309251397?lpid=82

Click to expand...

I also emailed the guy for a quote on getting it three of them made all hooked with one in and one out that fits in a 5 gallon bucket and you can just put try ice or ice in the holes and then insulate the bucket or use an insulated like gatorade cooler like this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RUBBERMAID-...423?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2fa8b5ef

Before Valves. The tri clamp one j had welded up for me and it's utilized as the prechiller for liquid line. I'll post pics later

Recommendations: Use swage, or weld triclamp yetbthey tend to get bulky. Great place to T two or more pumps into one tank inlet

thepanda said:

Let me just place this here and save you guys a bunch of work...... Can't beat the price either.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131309251397?lpid=82

Click to expand...

for the lazy non clickers

thepanda said:

for the lazy non clickers


View Image

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I hate that we can't edit our posts I look like an idiot, should be allowed to edit them up to like 10 mins

Hydrosun said:

Why insulate the IC69? It is being built as a heat exchanger and I want the coil interacting with large amounts of water to help pull heat out of the recovered solvent as it is returned to the recovery tank.

Click to expand...

This design mounts the coils to the tank that holds the coolant, so the insulation is to minimize losses.

thepanda said:

Let me just place this here and save you guys a bunch of work...... Can't beat the price either.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131309251397?lpid=82

Click to expand...

thepanda said:

I hate that we can't edit our posts I look like an idiot, should be allowed to edit them up to like 10 mins

View Image

Click to expand...

Thanks Panda, that helps out...

Dab Strudel said:

The coil is going to sit inside the pot. The pot needs To keep cold and not freeze to whatever its sitting on.

Click to expand...

Are you proposing a sealed system for the IC69, with active water circulation. Through a chiller perhaps?

Lining a pot with a wetsuit, would be fine so long as cool water was pumped into and out of the pot.

A better solution may be to ditch the pot and wetsuit in favor of a cooler with the lid connected to the coil, both ends off the coil / cooler lid connected to the ball valves.
http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...src=17588969&gclid=CMqv0sT04cICFWho7AodTWsA_Q

Then we can take out the bottom spout of the cooler and plumb it for our inbound cold water source. Next plumb a bulkhead at the top of the cooler. Connect cooler to a chiller and recirculating water source as necessary.

This seems like a neat idea, a may be a future build.

The first IC69 I put together was done with a SS coil picked up by another ICmag member, a Ridgid brand tube cutter from Home Depot, and a trip to Swagelok. Swagelok parts are great, pretty, and tough; however they are more expensive than other options.

Gray Wolf said:

This design mounts the coils to the tank that holds the coolant, so the insulation is to minimize losses.

Click to expand...

How cold can you get that? Can it hold denatured alch and dry ice (if the expanding co2 is vented)?

Looks awesome!

thepanda said:

I hate that we can't edit our posts I look like an idiot, should be allowed to edit them up to like 10 mins

View Image

Click to expand...

Get to 50 posts and "member" status. You can then edit.

Gray Wolf said:

This design mounts the coils to the tank that holds the coolant, so the insulation is to minimize losses.

Click to expand...

Have you filled this with ln2 yet?

Hydrosun said:

How cold can you get that? Can it hold denatured alch and dry ice (if the expanding co2 is vented)?

Looks awesome!

Click to expand...

Not sure how cold we can get the alcohol bath using -195C liquid notrogen, but we've had it at -50C.

bismu said:

Have you filled this with ln2 yet?

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The N2 flows throught he central coil. The tank holds an alcohol mixture.