[Ganoderma]

Originally Posted by gmanwho

so last run may have been my best to date. quality and quantity. as for quantity of the the whole room, i had a bunch of testers in there this round an some of those didnt fill in so much. 1 or 2 worthy of running again. so the star cross's produced above expectations an that was a good chunk of the room.

one of the skywalker tester ran very well an i will be running some more of those soon.

Roots were very healthy an abundant. def very healthy till the chop. a step above my last runs. which prob was one of my major improvements so far. so thru veg unitill about day 30 i was making the richy rich teas. i kept forgetting to brew the tea's, or forgot they were brewing. i saw some root porn here an someone spoke of recharge, which is a beneficial bacteria inoculant. I checked it out an seems it had alot of the same ingredients as like 4-5 of the separate things is was buying to make the richy rich teas, but in higher doses. so i started using the recharge right out the container at like day 30. an now im brewing the recharge when i have time. every 5/6 days im adding the recharge in.

i noticed alot of lateral root development since the teas or recharge. i get abit faster transition into new pots. clones take off faster.

one time i noted when i started the rehcharge, within 48hrs i saw the exposed roots grow a mushroom tip of new root. then the roots started to grow the size of the mushroom tip. i would say alomost double the thickness. so i do believe the product works. an the lateral root development was wayyyy higher then i've seen before. rhizotonic type root development.

the stardawg corey x early pearl/mullumbimby crosses performed very well. they packed more density then the original corey for sure. colas are abit more elongated, darker green when cured an not as yellow. an to top it off the the mullum smell is way stronger thru the stardawg. nice trich coverage. killed it, but always room for improvement. the high seems racier to me an lasts longer.

i have so many pics i still need to sort thru.


basically half room shots an 2/3rds room shot...

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stardawg epxmull #9 showing some similarities to the early pearl cola formation, but heavy mullum smell. viney veg. i still need to find the #9 shots without the hps glow

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2 stardawg corey's an like 6 stardawg epxmull #1, the stardawg zone. about 4-5 ft deep an 8-9 feet wide.

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Looks very nice

[gmanwho]

Originally Posted by nastynate420

What do you think about the hanna 83225?

its still sitting there. i had problems sourcing the regents, which are the solutions for independent testing the npk sulfur cal an mg. i found them, but it was like $500+ for the 5-6 solutions i needed. i will get back to it later. alot of my deficiencies disappeared when i started running jacks, an added the humidity misters. much smoother but i still have some problems. if my problems had persisted heavily i would gotten the reagents, but its good times right now.

i will get back to it, i know it will help me dial in an understand the plants feeding cycle more.

b well man...

[gmanwho]

plant health has been a step above any last runs. thou some are always wanting more food. so instead of increasing the jacks overall ppm in the rez im gonna try out jr peters most. MOST stands for " mix of soluble trace".

cut an paste

Guaranteed Analysis:

Sulfur (S) (Combined)13%
Magnesium (Mg) 0.4%
0.4% water soluble magnesium (Mg)
Boron (B) 1.35%
Copper (Cu) 2.3%
2.3% water soluble copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe) 7.5%
7.5% water soluble iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn) 8%
8% water soluble manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo) 0.04%
Zinc (Zn) 4.5%
4.5% water soluble zinc (Zn)

hope by adding some "most" i can get the few troubled abit healthier without overdosing the rest with the jacks hydro.

after speaking to someone at jr peters, the recommended rate is 2oz weighed to 100gallons of solution. they stated there was no indicated ec or ppm set point.

when i broke it down and weighed most to tablespoons, it was basically 3 tablespoons equaled 2oz. 1 tablespoon to 33gallons. so im running it at half recommended for the time being. 1 tbsp to my 60-75 gal solution.

the other thing was recommended was most can not be mixed in concentrations with anything with calcium in it.
the way it was explained was, mix jacks hydro into nute reservior, then mix most in, then mix cal-nit in



hope i dont get to confusing here, getting thoughts to paper/thread has always not been easy for me.

lately instead of dumping the rez every 5-8 days i've been waiting for about 4 jacks add backs. then replace 80% of the rez. last run was an indication that it works pretty well.
so what happens is basically lets say day 1 of flower i bring the nutes to 1250 ppm or so, instead of 1400 prior, every day i see the ppm drop. from 1250ppm on the first day anywhere from 80-200ppm would be absorbed the first day. stage dependit.

within 5 days im usually down till about 800 ppm, that seems to be my add back point.

i set my ph to 5.6, if everything is happy i can see 6.2 ph by the time i reach the 800ppm addback point. if i get to 6.2 before i hit the 800ppm mark, i ph down to 5.8ish again. if shit is off and not back on track, meaning my ppm is not dropping more then 20-30ppm a day at that point, i dump the rez an start at 5.6 1250ish again.


another technique that seems to work well with the addbacks is i wait a day or 2 before i adding the jacks hydro back. for an addback on a 75 gal rez i pre dilute 4 scoops of cal nit in a gallon jug. then 4 scoops of jacks hydro in another gal jug. approx, sometimes i go 6 scoops day 15-50 when they are feeding heavy.

so when the 800 ppm is hit after a fresh rez, i pour the jacks cal-nit pre dilute gallon in, i call that my " A " nute. I wait a 1/2 day, day, then pour back 1/3rd of the jacks hydro jug in the rez, Nute " B ". I watch to see where the ppms rise to. if it hits 1250ppm i wait another half day till add back more of the " B" predilute . within a day or 2 all the predilute jug " B " is in. 99% of the time it goes like that.

what i hope to avoid by doing this , an im no chemist, is i hope there is less chances of lock outs. the "a" nute has a chance to be absorbed without higher "b" concentrations interfering.

along with other things i use my ppm meter to gauge how well they are eating. i feel at this point i see them eat faster an more consistent this of feeding. then if i was to pour both the a&b in together at once an run say 1400 ppm.

another thought .........i feel some plants " nute lockout" threshold is higher then others. an we gauge this by how strong they like to feed, or what deficiencies shown at lower feeds.

In " MY " environment most handle 1200ppm very well, most can handle the 1400, but some cant. so i feed heavy, but i dont let the nutes get that heavy at one given time. hoping this is a better way to approach feeding.

2 things to remember is i have 3 separate controllers running the room, at any given time there is about 8 gallons in EACH controller,3/4 lines an few inches in 8 buckets. 2nd is i allow the condensate water from the split ac to back to the rez. if im running higher humidity in the room via the misters, that means the ac is pulling more water out an adding back to the rez

will see how it goes.....

basfe

[DobermanGuy]

OMG!!!

[Ganoderma]

Originally Posted by DobermanGuy

OMG!!! View Image

What a flop house

[johnnykind]

Great use of that space... don't think you could pack any more in there if you tried

[nastynate420]

Hey gman, is there anyway that you could elaborate on what you used to make the misters to up the rh and how you set it up?

[gmanwho]

hey nasty nate those misters are the dry heat cooling misters. check out ezmisters dot com . they usually use them for patios, or put them in front of fans. they run off standard water pressure , approx 45psi. one or 2 misters can do alot of RH. i went over board at first an then went with 2 mister for a 9x16 room. 1 for a 10x10, both 9ft6in ceiling. the lower ceiling the 16x20 room with mixed 8ft center ceiling an 6ft sides i went with 3 misters.

whatever you do put some distance in between if you can. 2 misters together can get things wet if your not moving enough air to increase evaporating. they also cool the room, i see a 2 to 3 degF. cool off during a 30-40 second burst of mist. i set a 2% dead period. so if it set 62% rh, they run to 62, stop water, rises to 63 ish. it then waits to 60% before they turn back on. the time of year an how many lights running basically determine the time in-between misting periods.

i notice if i run during the summer the misters cycle quicker. it depends on the air conditioners work load, they will pull more moisture from the air the harder they work. the misters will cycle more. maybe they wait 2-3 mins to cycle. if its winter out, anything below 40degf, an the grow room is 80-84 an running 64%rh they tend to wait longer in between cycles, maybe go 5mins in bewtween mist cycles. i runn 58% later flower an it may wait 8-10 mins to mist the room.

the ones i used work with 1/8 poly line like you use for ice makers. i bought a normally closed 120v 1/8th inch solenoid off ebay. wired it up for a standard ac plug. my Autopilot controller has a rh function, set it to humidification thru the menu. plugged it all together an ran a feed from my water filter to the solenoid. after the solenoid the misters where plumbed in.

when the controller calls for increase of humidity it sends power to the solenoid, opens the valve an lets water force thru the misters till the controller is satisfied. it then shuts the power off to the solenoid an water stops flowing to the misters.

hope that made some sense. i've been up for a long long time from a road trip. the first setup has been working in one room for a while now. has some dripping when it shuts off. but i put a ground level fan near the drip points an it evaporates drips in no time. apparently they make no drip ones as well.

bsafe

[LostTribe]

how long did you veg those?

[gmanwho]

Originally Posted by LostTribe

how long did you veg those?

that question varies. depends on what room, what system.

i have 3 rooms, not on same schedule. so sometimes slower to take plants in veg that didnt make the first selection will get pushed to the next in line room.

all rooms are slightly different. sill trying to figure whats best an most efficient for my needs.

most is say i go a month of veg, atleast. after the 20 or 25 day fresh rooted clone to netpot. the early veg/clone rooting phase.

so probably 30-50 days of veg from fresh rooted clone.

bsafe