Marijuana Stealth Cabinet (NGB) - as seen on OG - Page 3 - Micro Grows - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

DurbanPoison · 07-16-2006, 10:08 PM

Definitely drop in the floros if you can. They worked wonders for me on the pop corn. Also another stragey i learned from the urban grower is loli-popping. When you put into flower phase, just rip off the branches that you can tell are going to be all popcorn. This will force the auxins that the plant produces to the other branches and in turn make them larger and more potent and then you have less pop corn!

Nate · 07-16-2006, 10:41 PM

Wow, I haven't seen that article in a long time, I was hoping someone would recover it, nice find.

Thanks for posting this

DurbanPoison · 07-23-2006, 10:25 AM

What do you guys think?

stevr59 · 07-23-2006, 05:27 PM

man i love the raise panlel doors thats the way i will build my next cab ,but waite the fun starts when ya try to put all the elctrionic in that lil room it was a bitch so much so i took the flo ballast and mounted then on the back of the cab ,i know it dont show it on the pics but ngb had the door to the room on top of the cab wich i didnt notice till after i bulit the box but i found his other pics in other links on og,now what lind of light are you going with for the mother room? i used 2 24" flo and i tore it apart and made it 18" but thats is way to much trouble think clf would be a easer choice.

DurbanPoison · 07-23-2006, 08:26 PM

Right on man - I am going to do two cfls and 2 floro tubes. I used to use this setup in my old cab and the mix of warm and cool seemed to be perfect in the small quarters. But I think I may leave the floro ballasts in there as they didn't seem to generate much heat before. I used the same floros - well take a look at these pics.

Anyhow I think I will copy the setup from this old cab into the mother room. The flower chamber will have my 175w MH Bulb/Ballast for short veg time if needed and then switch to 150w hps conversion. After looking at the space left over I think your right that its going to be a struggle to fit all the utilities - but I will make it work. I've put a lot of blood and sweat into this thing so far - failure is not an option!

DurbanPoison · 07-23-2006, 08:32 PM

Oh I forgot to mention - I'll probably be using just 2 18" warm tubes but I dont know for sure. I have one of those duel socket outlets with cfls as u can see in the above pic - do you think it would be better to just get another? Those babies do 40w ea. and that would really help I would imagine, but then I wouldn't have any red light spectrum..

Oh the big difference is also that I am thinking of sticking with soil and just scrog. Think that will do? Or is there good reason to use the SWC method as NGB suggests. I haven't grown hydro before .. =/

07-23-2006, 09:49 PM

Wow! Excellent cabs by everyone!!! Gotta love the woodworking DurbanPoison.

The NGB design was pretty popular on the OG site but if I recall, there were ventilation issues with the original design due to undersized intakes. For all fans to work well with ducting, the intake area has to be twice the area of the exhaust.

This design has a few bottlenecks as the cooling air has to pass from the veg chamber to the flower chamber. I think the original design was ok for 150W but ran into problems as the lighting was increased to 250W or higher.

DurbanPoison · 07-25-2006, 06:43 PM

I checked out your post with the rubbermaid deal man that was sweet. I'm not 100% yet but I may just use CFL's in a similar array that you have. I might be able to get by with just 3- 30w with one of those 3outlet vanity dealy's. I may upgrade those 1" Elbow Intakes on the outside to 2"ers. Hopefully that will solve the ventillation issue. I have to wait a bit before I can temp test as I am still working on my reflector. What a PITA! Anyhow - keep up the excellent duct tape work. & Thanks for the advice.

07-26-2006, 07:02 AM

I'm happy that you like my tubs. Getting the ventilation working took a bit of effort but I sure learned alot about ventilation for both HPS and CFL lighting.

HPS lighting needs about 1 CFM per Watt to keep the temps within 10F of ambient.
Installing a cooltube or a vented hood lowers the growbox ventilation requirements down to 0.3 CFM/ Watt. The cool tube ventilation needs about 0.5 CFM/Watt.
The intake area must be 2x the exhaust area for maximum airflow.

Hope this helps you out. Measure twice and cut once!

DurbanPoison · 07-26-2006, 08:16 AM

LOL. Thanks for the measure & cut advice. That I truly do religiously. Except usually its more like - measure once - short term memory issues, measure again after forgetting, then measure once more for GOOD measure. Ha. Anyhow, I think I need to work something out to create a cool tube. Any advice on that? I'm building my reflector out of sheet metal at the moment and the bending has been a pain the ass and I have a basic idea of how i'll be putting the bulb in there, but I was planning on just drilling some holes in it and putting a pc fan to exhaust the hood in the direction of the carbon filter.

07-16-2006, 10:08 PM	#21
DurbanPoison Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: West U.S.A Posts: 548	Pop Corn Definitely drop in the floros if you can. They worked wonders for me on the pop corn. Also another stragey i learned from the urban grower is loli-popping. When you put into flower phase, just rip off the branches that you can tell are going to be all popcorn. This will force the auxins that the plant produces to the other branches and in turn make them larger and more potent and then you have less pop corn!
	Quote

07-16-2006, 10:41 PM	#22
Nate Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: USA Posts: 105	Wow, I haven't seen that article in a long time, I was hoping someone would recover it, nice find. Thanks for posting this __________________ "NateTheGreat" Apollo's Thunder! "...See, the law changes and I don't. How I stand vis-à-vis the law at any given moment depends on the law. ...I consider myself a road man for the lords of karma." ---Hunter Thompson, 2003
	Quote

07-23-2006, 10:25 AM	#23
DurbanPoison Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: West U.S.A Posts: 548	NGB Cab Progress What do you guys think?
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07-23-2006, 05:27 PM	#24
stevr59 Think for your self Qustion Authority Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: cant remember Posts: 685	man i love the raise panlel doors thats the way i will build my next cab ,but waite the fun starts when ya try to put all the elctrionic in that lil room it was a bitch so much so i took the flo ballast and mounted then on the back of the cab ,i know it dont show it on the pics but ngb had the door to the room on top of the cab wich i didnt notice till after i bulit the box but i found his other pics in other links on og,now what lind of light are you going with for the mother room? i used 2 24" flo and i tore it apart and made it 18" but thats is way to much trouble think clf would be a easer choice. __________________ e-conlight NGB Mirco box Run Linux off a live cd 150 watt club GROW ROOM LOG BY VBSPARKY Jethro Bodean School of komputer teknalowgee class of 1998 Linux Operating System-Ubuntu-6.10 Heres to you Mirco Sux We Wont Forget POMH
	Quote

07-23-2006, 08:26 PM	#25
DurbanPoison Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: West U.S.A Posts: 548	Thanks! Right on man - I am going to do two cfls and 2 floro tubes. I used to use this setup in my old cab and the mix of warm and cool seemed to be perfect in the small quarters. But I think I may leave the floro ballasts in there as they didn't seem to generate much heat before. I used the same floros - well take a look at these pics. Anyhow I think I will copy the setup from this old cab into the mother room. The flower chamber will have my 175w MH Bulb/Ballast for short veg time if needed and then switch to 150w hps conversion. After looking at the space left over I think your right that its going to be a struggle to fit all the utilities - but I will make it work. I've put a lot of blood and sweat into this thing so far - failure is not an option!
	Quote

07-23-2006, 08:32 PM	#26
DurbanPoison Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: West U.S.A Posts: 548	Oops - forgot to mention... Oh I forgot to mention - I'll probably be using just 2 18" warm tubes but I dont know for sure. I have one of those duel socket outlets with cfls as u can see in the above pic - do you think it would be better to just get another? Those babies do 40w ea. and that would really help I would imagine, but then I wouldn't have any red light spectrum.. Oh the big difference is also that I am thinking of sticking with soil and just scrog. Think that will do? Or is there good reason to use the SWC method as NGB suggests. I haven't grown hydro before .. =/ Last edited by DurbanPoison; 07-23-2006 at 08:38 PM.. Reason: Last minute add on!
	Quote

07-23-2006, 09:49 PM	#27
Guest Guest Posts: n/a	Wow! Excellent cabs by everyone!!! Gotta love the woodworking DurbanPoison. The NGB design was pretty popular on the OG site but if I recall, there were ventilation issues with the original design due to undersized intakes. For all fans to work well with ducting, the intake area has to be twice the area of the exhaust. This design has a few bottlenecks as the cooling air has to pass from the veg chamber to the flower chamber. I think the original design was ok for 150W but ran into problems as the lighting was increased to 250W or higher.
	Quote

07-25-2006, 06:43 PM	#28
DurbanPoison Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: West U.S.A Posts: 548	I checked out your post with the rubbermaid deal man that was sweet. I'm not 100% yet but I may just use CFL's in a similar array that you have. I might be able to get by with just 3- 30w with one of those 3outlet vanity dealy's. I may upgrade those 1" Elbow Intakes on the outside to 2"ers. Hopefully that will solve the ventillation issue. I have to wait a bit before I can temp test as I am still working on my reflector. What a PITA! Anyhow - keep up the excellent duct tape work. & Thanks for the advice.
	Quote

07-26-2006, 07:02 AM	#29
Guest Guest Posts: n/a	I'm happy that you like my tubs. Getting the ventilation working took a bit of effort but I sure learned alot about ventilation for both HPS and CFL lighting. HPS lighting needs about 1 CFM per Watt to keep the temps within 10F of ambient. Installing a cooltube or a vented hood lowers the growbox ventilation requirements down to 0.3 CFM/ Watt. The cool tube ventilation needs about 0.5 CFM/Watt. The intake area must be 2x the exhaust area for maximum airflow. Hope this helps you out. Measure twice and cut once!
	Quote

07-26-2006, 08:16 AM	#30
DurbanPoison Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: West U.S.A Posts: 548	LOL. Thanks for the measure & cut advice. That I truly do religiously. Except usually its more like - measure once - short term memory issues, measure again after forgetting, then measure once more for GOOD measure. Ha. Anyhow, I think I need to work something out to create a cool tube. Any advice on that? I'm building my reflector out of sheet metal at the moment and the bending has been a pain the ass and I have a basic idea of how i'll be putting the bulb in there, but I was planning on just drilling some holes in it and putting a pc fan to exhaust the hood in the direction of the carbon filter.
	Quote