[Brot]

Originally Posted by piper434

Is there any way to recover the everclear when winterizing, rather than just evap?
For edibles and such I just use my still to reclaim, but what about keeping it cool and non-decarbed?

Thanks!

It's called a Rotary Evapratory, and they sure work great! Recover 1000 ml's. In 8 hrs, @ 86*F, water temp/775Torr. Slight air vent to recovery vessel. Use minimal vac. For de carb,1000 ml's in 2hrs, @ 185*f water temp/775Torr, med air flow. My water chiller is set at 39*f

[flashlight]

This has been highly informative, thanks so much for the insight.

[dirac1984]

Originally Posted by piper434

Is there any way to recover the everclear when winterizing, rather than just evap?

So after winterizing I've recovered most of the everclear on a rotary
evaporator at 95 F under vacuum, poured the syrup on teflon, and
dried this in the oven at 115 F and 29.95 inches for 3-4 hours.
Bubbling has ceased completely, but the product is neither stable
nor brittle.

How long can I dry under these conditions without decarboxylation ?

[Gray Wolf]

How thin a film??????

[dirac1984]

Quite thin, maybe 1/16 of an inch.

[Oily Farmer]

a KISS method, works for me every time.
i blast with butane, let it sit for a spell, usually until large bubbles form. then, i add 50mL of neutral grain spirits (192 Proof/96%), and stir until mixed thoroughly. note: the tube i use holds approximately 50 grams of material. i usually blast once, remove the material, let it sit for a few minutes, grind, then blast once more. i then filter to remove any plant material (usually none, but i do it anyway). i then cover, place in freezer for 48-72 hours. remove, filter (usually there's plenty of wax residue), cover and place back in the freezer for another 24-48 hours. remove, filter (barely, if any, wax residue). depending on how much mixture i have, either i pour part or all of it on a glass plate, and then set the glass plate on a warming pad (temp doesn't exceed 104F/40c). depending on how much alcohol needs to be evaporated, i usually have some decent shatter in 8-12 hours.
just trying to keep it simple stoner (KISS).
cheers.
happy blasting.

[Resin23]

As stated my you want enough liquid in the solution so you can filter it easily, but not too much so it takes forever to evaporate; It honestly does not matter the amount of solvent you use as long as it's fully dissolved at room temp. Use unbleached (brown) #4 cup coffee filters, doubled up versus the flat regular filters. Gravity filtration is better than vacuum filtration imho. I also dissolve the bho at room temp with agitation rather than using heat.

The best way to evaporate is to put in a Pyrex pie plate, sit on top of a heating pad, cover with a fine mesh screen(to keep out dust/debris), and put a fan blowing on it so as the surface of the solution is agitated. You can evaporate 250ml in well under a hour.

Also I noticed no one mentioned this step. After dissolving the bho into ethanol before freezing, set in the sun light for a few hours to breakdown any chlorophyll present into simple sugars. It will help the color and taste.

[TNEx]

Originally Posted by Resin23

As stated my you want enough liquid in the solution so you can filter it easily, but not too much so it takes forever to evaporate; It honestly does not matter the amount of solvent you use as long as it's fully dissolved at room temp. Use unbleached (brown) #4 cup coffee filters, doubled up versus the flat regular filters. Gravity filtration is better than vacuum filtration imho. I also dissolve the bho at room temp with agitation rather than using heat.

The best way to evaporate is to put in a Pyrex pie plate, sit on top of a heating pad, cover with a fine mesh screen(to keep out dust/debris), and put a fan blowing on it so as the surface of the solution is agitated. You can evaporate 250ml in well under a hour.

Also I noticed no one mentioned this step. After dissolving the bho into ethanol before freezing, set in the sun light for a few hours to breakdown any chlorophyll present into simple sugars. It will help the color and taste.

Do you find by putting it in the sunlight causes any negative side effects ? (ie darken in color etc..)

[Gray Wolf]

Originally Posted by TNEx

Do you find by putting it in the sunlight causes any negative side effects ? (ie darken in color etc..)

The chlorophyll breakdown leaves it yellow or gold, and typically lightens it a shade. Good for bleaching out light electric greens, but not so good on deep greens.

UV degrades the cannabinoids, so you don't want to use any more than it takes to get the job done.

The saving grace is that cannabinoids don't degrade in the blink of an eye, or they wouldn't have survived on the plant in the first place.

[FuriousOGK]

Originally Posted by Gray Wolf

The chlorophyll breakdown leaves it yellow or gold, and typically lightens it a shade. Good for bleaching out light electric greens, but not so good on deep greens.

UV degrades the cannabinoids, so you don't want to use any more than it takes to get the job done.

The saving grace is that cannabinoids don't degrade in the blink of an eye, or they wouldn't have survived on the plant in the first place.

so when you leave homogenous mix outside, or in window seal, or however you go about using the suns UV to further scrub out chlorophyll and such is there any research as to wether there is a difference in using the "natural sun" or lab grade UV lamps/lights?

i think the question i am asking here would it be more efficient regarding time it takes to scrub and less damaging to cannabinoids using a UV lamp/light?... but then again, when it comes to quality... Low & slow is the way to go... so maybe the sun itself is more so the way to go.

...Any insight?...