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| Forums > Marijuana Growing > Growroom Designs & Equipment > Grow Room Safety > Taking fire safety to the next level in my new build... | ||
| Taking fire safety to the next level in my new build... | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
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#41 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: high on a cold mountain
Posts: 1,016
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I think we're getting a little complicated on the fire suppression/extinguishing system. If proper high heat cut offs are installed along with afci breakers, then a ballast fire or other equipment is no longer an electrical fire it's simply materials on fire. Put in a residential sprinkler system for fairly cheap and that would take care of the flames. Another thing that hasn't come up is making sure the room is air tight. Sheet rock should be mudded, fire caulking should be applied at correct rates to any penetrations through the walls, ceiling, floors, ect. And put the subpanel outside the room so we're not looking at a situation of sprinklers and a live panel. Doors should be air tight and fire rated. Choke it out and prevent the spread. If you have an older balloon framed house then build your own walls inside of those, put fire stops inside the stud frame.
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"I think myself that we have more machinery of government than is necessary, too many parasites living on the labor of the industrious." Thomas Jefferson "One has not only a legal but a moral responsibility to obey just laws. Conversely, one has a moral responsibility to disobey unjust laws. I would agree with St. Augustine that "an unjust law is no law at all"" Freedom begins between the ears |
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1 members found this post helpful. |
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#42 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: On top of a mountain by Denver, CO
Posts: 47
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Are high heat cutoffs on any intake/exhaust fans sufficient to cut off airflow to a sealed room otherwise, or do they make some kind of air vents that can failsafe shut if they lose a tiny bit of power?
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#43 |
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Inveterate Tinkerer
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The systems that I've been around for computer rooms simply turn off the A/C circulation fan, but you can get dampers that open electrically and close via a spring when the power is turned off.
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#44 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: high on a cold mountain
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Search"fire damper" that is what he is talking about. I would imagine that's going to be fairly expensive. I really feel like putting an arc fault breaker for your equipment and have your ballasts on fireproof racks you have done your due diligence.
__________________
"I think myself that we have more machinery of government than is necessary, too many parasites living on the labor of the industrious." Thomas Jefferson "One has not only a legal but a moral responsibility to obey just laws. Conversely, one has a moral responsibility to disobey unjust laws. I would agree with St. Augustine that "an unjust law is no law at all"" Freedom begins between the ears |
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#45 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: On top of a mountain by Denver, CO
Posts: 47
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Sounds like a $89 Costco industrial metal shelf would be perfect.
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#46 | |
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Inveterate Tinkerer
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Quote:
What I was talking about is a "zone damper" used for zonal HVAC control. They are usually controlled with either a 24v or 120v signal for one direction, and a spring return for the other. They can come in either spring open or spring close. |
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