[richyrich]

03-23-2014, 01:56 PM #1257 Jomofo

yes I think I have it in the tap water too, it happened fast right after getting them into the top feed system, that had a light leak but I don't think that formed it because in the ebb n flow it was not very well covered rez no direct light but it was open basically, when I moved them they had a direct light leak and I didn't see slime it was not till after I added carbo load to rez, and I had normally used bud candy with no problem in that same set up. Also I get my water from the great lakes or my city does, so that could be bad for other people too.

[richyrich]

Jomofo,

Try out my instructions:

How to Sterilize Your EZ Cloner and Hydro Systems

1. Depending on what you can get, Pysan20 is tops. Second, regular unscented bleach, and third, whatever you might want to try. I only advocate Physan20 and bleach for now.

2. For sterilizing equipment, use hot hot water, your choice of one of the products of above, and antibacterial dish washing soap. The dish soap is antibacterial so it will help somewhat. It also is a surfactant and will make the scrubbing much easier. For Physan20 you will use 1mL per 5 gallons. For regular unscented bleach use 1 cup per 5 gallons. For other products you need to figure that out.

3. If you are cleaning a system with a lot of tubes (eg. ez cloner, drip systems, dwrc, drip feed, connected buckets, etc.), make sure your system is drained, then fill up your rez with one of the products, super hot water, and enough antibacterial dishwashing soap to get enough suds going. Now run the system for 4 hours.

4. For an ez cloner, take the lid off. Put all the puks in the sterilizing water. Take the pump apart. Take the red sprayers off the manifold. Soad everything in the bottome portion of the ez cloner for 2 hours then move on to step 5 below.

5. Take everything apart and scrub everything down like your life depends on it. Use a dishwashing sponge that has a scruff pad on the back side. Also get and use an old tooth brush, one of those tooth brush looking things that has brass bristles, etc.. Get into all the nooks and crannies. To clean the ez cloner puks spread the puks and clean the inside of them while dunking into the bleach soap water at the same time.

6. After scrubbing is complete, rinse everything off with hot hot water. Then put everything back together.

7. Fill up your rez or cloner again with hot hot water and one of the products above to the same ratios listed. Do not use dishsoap this time. Run the system for 2 hours.

8. Dump the rez or cloner of all the sterilizing water. Get it all out. Use a shop vac to suck out what you can't drain.

9. This is your last rinse. Only add hot hot water this round to your rez or cloner. Run it for 1 hour. Drain it all out.

10. You are now ready to start growing.

[richyrich]

Jomofo,

How deep are those trays you have with the styro and net pots?

[richyrich]

(this is copied from the original slime club thread as it is relevant here too)

Originally Posted by Gifted0ne

https://skunklabshc.com Not sure if ur suppose to put links in here or not though. Read through the info page and i saw some pics of it on the facebook page. I will prob try it out also.

It's all good posting anything beneficial for the community here.

I took a look at the product root assist. Those tea packets look too small to me. What you begin with is what determines what you end up with. More initial material used equals many more microbes. Something such as the brown slime algae requires a massive microherd army.

I should know, I'm the one who battled the unnamed at the time snot slime without any information to be found on the internet anywhere. I researched it for years. I discovered its name, origin, and how to deal with and slay it. This slime club thread documents the journey and is one of if not the most epic threads in any mj website forum.

That company producing the root assist appears to be just another company attempting to profit off of what they discovered here thru my work. When I see things such as: add to rez every 3rd day, fridge for up to 10 days, use a funnel and cheese clothe, use GH Ancient Forest, etc., I know it's all bitten from my work here documented years ago.

Adding to the rez every 3rd day is what I figured out was best through experimentation and observation under microscope. Same with fridging it up to 10 days. Those directions were found no where else. In addition nobody was making teas specifically for hydroponic systems when I developed a tea recipe that anybody could gather the ingredients from available products on the market and make it themselves for FREE.

Don't be fooled guys and gals by all the plagiarism elsewhere from my work done here in the slime club thread. My hydro tea recipe has been mistakenly been going around by the name Heisenberg Tea at rollitup.org. No doubt it was lifted from this thread and the post was started over there in 8/2010 after this thread died down. My tea was documented here in 2008. The RichyRich Hydro Tea Recipe and Instructions name was attributed to me by members in this thread when I gave the hydro tea recipe to the community for FREE.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

What is Plagiarism?

Many people think of plagiarism as copying another's work or borrowing someone else's original ideas. But terms like "copying" and "borrowing" can disguise the seriousness of the offense:

According to the Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary, to "plagiarize" means

to steal and pass off (the ideas or words of another) as one's own
to use (another's production) without crediting the source
to commit literary theft
to present as new and original an idea or product derived from an existing source

In other words, plagiarism is an act of fraud. It involves both stealing someone else's work and lying about it afterward. Plagiarism is the passing off of another person's work as one's own. The key is that a person claims credit or appears to claim credit for writing done by someone else.

Plagiarism is theft of another person's writings or ideas. Generally, it occurs when someone steals expressions from another author's composition and makes them appear to be his own work. Plagiarism is not a legal term; however, it is often used in lawsuits. Courts recognize acts of plagiarism as violations of Copyright law.

Plagiarism is taking the ideas of another and using them without giving proper credit. It is a form of stealing and a serious academic offense.

Plagiarism is unethical behavior that can generate various forms of social punishment such as loss of reputation, failure in a course at a school, loss of a professional job, recall of a book, or forfeiture of a license.

To avoid plagiarism, give credit to previous researchers, and make your own significant contribution.

By correctly citing other people's works and ideas, a person has also agreed to engage in the kind of scholarly communication that is part of academic life. Citing another person's words is a way of giving credit to that person, and of acknowledging the importance of that person's work to one's own ideas. After all, you wouldn't want someone quoting your words or using your ideas without giving you credit, would you?


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


You don't need to buy anything else from anybody except for my hydro tea recipe. Unless, you have some mutant nasty microbe that is resistant to the tea. That is what I have been working on the last 5 years since I made the first hydro tea recipe. If you have experienced the slime, nobody should have to suffer thru it when the information is here for free. Nobody should be holding out the information from our fellow growers for profit or praise.

I haven't been in the forums for a few years and I have come to see how wildly successful my hydro tea recipe has become. Every mj website has people plagiarizing my work and many offering products for profit. Even retailers are taking advantage.

That's how incredible my tea recipe is. I'm sure tens of thousands of crops have been saved by now. Before and still, no product available at a hydro store can produce the results of my original hydro tea recipe.

Don't buy anything except what is needed to make your own RichyRich Hydro Tea that is below in my signature.

If you think you may have a mutant microbe infestation, you may be interested in my two other threads. Start off by going to the Rot Club thread. It's all about root rot and other root problems. It's going to be just as epic as this thread is. Link below.

Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282319

[richyrich]

bump

[richyrich]

THIS IS A MUST READ FOR EVERY GROWER

The following is all about spores.

I am posting this info I cut and paste from various sites on the web. You must know about spores and it will become clear why once you have finished reading.

You will not defeat them. Know that right now. You will read below that quaternary ammonium compounds will not kill spores. That is what physan20 is. Not even physan20; what does that tell you. You must control them as I have stated over and over. They are a priority to control, especially, if you have been infected with root rot or the slime. Failure to control them will lead to to your garden's failure and that is guaranteed.

You must manage your grow rooms air to the extreme and if you suspect spores in your source water, you must treat that too!!! If you don't or try to half ass it, you are just asking to fail and prolong your suffering.

Air Filtration !!!
Air Filtration !!!
Air Filtration !!!

You can buy all the magical potions you want and waste your money, time, and sanity. You can continue to buy one after the other thinking each one is the one to end it all. You will fail and drive yourself crazy.

Most products out there are meant to protect and prevent. For some things like the slime, the products on the market do not even work. I went thru product after product. That is why I formulated the richyrich hydro tea recipe especially for hydroponic use. And, the pluses of my hydro tea recipe are that it's completely safe to use, it mimics mother nature's intentions, the roots are the healthiest you will ever see in hydro, the roots are explosive, the root balls are huge, and you get bumper crops. Who doesn't like any of that. That is nothing short of amazing.

Like I said, I tried all of the products on the market during my epic battle with the slime. Nothing can do what my hydro specific tea recipe can do. If you have gone thru the slime thread you will witness the testimonials. And since then, five years ago, it has become wildly popular that it has spread all over the place. The particular bone I have to pick is with people attempting to profit from it and plagiarizing my work; and, I have the ethical high ground.

Anyway, that is all being taken care of for me. All of the people using my original work for those reasons are in direct violation of copyright laws and are illegally infringing. They will find out soon enough. We all have unknown fellow growers/friends that care. Friends in our community that share good principles have offered to undertake the work for free. I gave them my blessing. Anyone is free to use my original work for their personal use and helping other people under proper copyright law. Use for personal gain is a no go, obviously, and rightly so.

Veering back on track, in the past I had tried all the beneficial microbe products available at the time and they all failed at protecting and preventing. That's how I ended up coming up with the recipe. I didn't simply try combining products until I got it right. I researched my ass off and taught myself all about the topics I needed to know. I figured out what was needed and then sought the specific microbes needed in available products that anyone could buy. That is how I came up with the hydro specific tea recipe. Oh, and I can't forget all of the experimenting I did too.

Anyway, I am mentioning this because I have gone much further since that time. This is the chief reason why I am back as it has become clear that there are resistant (mutant) strains of our root enemies.

ANYONE THAT HAS A ROOT PROBLEM THAT MY PREVIOUS GUIDANCE AND INSTRUCTIONS DO NOT HELP, I WANT TO HEAR ABOUT IT. POST YOUR PROBLEMS, PICTURES, AND STORY RIGHT IN THE FOLLOWING THREAD.

Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282319

If you don't feel comfortable doing so, then PM me. I have products I have been working on and I need study participants. I will send out my products for free in return for your participation from growers I choose which I believe make for a good study. I want the narliest and nastiest infections you guys have. Not the person who has their first root problem. You need to first try other courses of action that you can find here on icmag or from my instructions.

Okay, now on to the reading about spores... Remember, everything else is secondary!

-----------------------------------

Living cells are known as vegetative cells; the smallest unit of life that is like a tiny factory that is constantly working to live, grow and reproduce. But vegetative cells are vulnerable to damage from many environmental forces.

A few types of cells have a special trick up their “sleeve” that allows them to go dormant when environmental conditions become inhospitable. The trick is the ability to form spores. There are certain types of bacteria that form resistant bodies called endospores; structures that can weather the hostile conditions that kill vegetative cells.

When the living, vegetative cells of these genera are exposed to harsh environmental conditions, they undergo a process called sporulation and ultimately generate endospores. As one of the hardiest life forms, endospores are able to withstand high temperatures, drying out, freezing, radiation, chemicals and many other environmental conditions that would easily kill a vegetative cell.

Endospores are metabolically inactive, like a seed that is able to wait for the environment to again become favorable. Once environmental conditions improve, the endospore then germinates back into a living, vegetative cell that can grow and thrive.

In biology, a spore is a unit of asexual reproduction that may be adapted for dispersal and for survival, often for extended periods of time, in unfavorable conditions. By contrast, gametes are units of sexual reproduction. Spores form part of the life cycles of many plants, algae, fungi and protozoa. In bacteria, spores are not part of a sexual cycle but are resistant structures used for survival under unfavourable conditions.

In fungi, both asexual and sexual spores or sporangiospores of many fungal species are actively dispersed by forcible ejection from their reproductive structures. This ejection ensures exit of the spores from the reproductive structures as well as travelling through the air over long distances. Many fungi thereby possess specialized mechanical and physiological mechanisms as well as spore-surface structures, such as hydrophobins, for spore ejection. These mechanisms include, for example, forcible discharge of ascospores enabled by the structure of the ascus and accumulation of osmolytes in the fluids of the ascus that lead to explosive discharge of the ascospores into the air. The forcible discharge of single spores termed ballistospores involves formation of a small drop of water (Buller's drop), which upon contact with the spore leads to its projectile release with an initial acceleration of more than 10,000 g.

An endospore is a dormant, tough, and non-reproductive structure produced by certain bacteria from the Firmicute phylum. The name "endospore" is suggestive of a spore or seed-like form (endo means within), but it is not a true spore (i.e., not an offspring). It is a stripped-down, dormant form to which the bacterium can reduce itself. Endospore formation is usually triggered by a lack of nutrients, and usually occurs in Gram-positive bacteria. In endospore formation, the bacterium divides within its cell wall. One side then engulfs the other.

Endospores enable bacteria to lie dormant for extended periods, even centuries. Revival of spores millions of years old has been claimed. When the environment becomes more favorable, the endospore can reactivate itself to the vegetative state. Most types of bacteria cannot change to the endospore form.

Endospores can survive without nutrients. They are resistant to ultraviolet radiation, desiccation, high temperature, extreme freezing and chemical disinfectants.

Astrophysicist Steinn Sigurdsson said "There are viable bacterial spores that have been found that are 40 million years old on Earth – and we know they're very hardened to radiation." Common anti-bacterial agents that work by destroying vegetative cell walls do not affect endospores. Endospores are commonly found in soil and water, where they may survive for long periods of time. A variety of different microorganisms form "spores" or "cysts," but the endospores of low G+C Gram-positive bacteria are by far the most resistant to harsh conditions.

Some classes of bacteria can turn into exospores, also known as microbial cysts, instead of endospores. Exospores and endospores are two kinds of "hibernating" or dormant stages seen in some classes of microorganisms.

Endospores are resistant to most agents that would normally kill the vegetative cells they formed from. Unlike persister cells, endospores are the result of a focused morphological differentiation process specifically tied to nutrient limitation (starvation) in the environment and is initiated by quorum sensing within the "starving" population. Nearly all household cleaning products, alcohols, quaternary ammonium compounds and detergents have little effect.

Bacterial endospores are resistant to antibiotics, most disinfectants, and physical agents such as radiation, boiling, and drying. The impermeability of the spore coat is thought to be responsible for the endospore's resistance to chemicals. The heat resistance of endospores is due to a variety of factors.

[cleto reyes]

Hi richy first of all thank you for the tea recipe, i have been using my own version of it to some success for a couple of grows, i smoke my own medsso iv tried not to go the chemical route, the only ingredient i am missing is the ancient forest i am using some e.w.c i can get online.

i have had 2 good runs with your tea and i cant help but feel like the more runs i dothe less effective the tea works, i have tried everything but building a new system and buying new pumps, i believe what your saying i with spores is the reason behind the decline of my tea.

richy would you advise to renew system regularly to reduce spore build up?

and also do you think a dwrc system that drains will still suffer from these cyyano? im debating building a system like this i used to run after hearing heisenburg say slime wont bother the plants in flood and drain? what do you think to this richy is he talking sense?

thank you for your time i have also had to stop keeping mothers and cuttings because i did them in coco media and slime wont let anything grow healthy in coco nemore? which i dont hear others saying, have you encountered anyone else that cant grow coco crops pre slime? thanks again sry for the rubbish wording im on my phone and its hard totype a post.

[cleto reyes]

also worth mentioning when first running the tea i was using a uv filter on my r.o water before it went into the system, do you think it is worth using uv again? i stopped before because it was a hassle and didnt seem to make a big differenceat the time or i would have noticed, maybe i didnt notice again because it takes time for the spores to build up and cause problem?

one thing i havent tried yet is organic soil, i could use an alternate way of growing because at the moment im bound to the system that crippled me in the first place and a year on im now getting frustrated with the root problems and rdwc

[richyrich]

welcome to the club cleto reyes,

I don't have full faith in UV because of the following:

As one of the hardiest life forms, endospores are able to withstand high temperatures, drying out, freezing, radiation, chemicals and many other environmental conditions that would easily kill a vegetative cell.

They are resistant to ultraviolet radiation, desiccation, high temperature, extreme freezing and chemical disinfectants.

Nearly all household cleaning products, alcohols, quaternary ammonium compounds and detergents have little effect.

Bacterial endospores are resistant to antibiotics, most disinfectants, and physical agents such as radiation, boiling, and drying. The impermeability of the spore coat is thought to be responsible for the endospore's resistance to chemicals.

[richyrich]

cleto reyes,

I wouldn't take much advice from heisenberg. As far as I'm concerned s/he is a complete fraud that learned everything and parrots the info from the slime club thread for some reason, maybe the need for internet fame... pathetic. Slime can definitley get you in a flood and drain, so right there s/he does not know what s/he is talking about. Flood and drain always use a recirculating rez.

Just EWC should be fine with a mild infection. If you need heavy duty, head on over to my other thread. I have other things I have been working on.
Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282319

DTW is a winning choice. This I knew back in 2007/2008. Read the following post.