[Trichome Toker]

Hey blazeoneup, sorry if you covered this, but I have a 6 bucket bubbler system, connected at the bottoms with 1/2" tubing, and all connected to a controller tub with a float valve.

It is not recirculating, but if I wanted to use my pump that I change out the controller with to pump water from the controller into the buckets, how strong of a pump would I need?

I have about 18 gallons in the system at a time, about 3 gallons in each bucket.

I wouldn't be pumping through the hydro leca, I would be pumping into a hole on the top of the buckets directly into the water in each bucket if you know what I mean.

Thanks.

[clowntown]

Here's my view on it:

This would depend on how often you want to recirculate the water, and also depend heavily on how your recirculation system is plumbed. In particular your feed lines: typically 1/4" tubing. Each type of pump is also different in head pressure capacity, and will perform differently. Longer lengths of smaller diameter tubing will reduce the pump's efficiency. How the return lines are plumbed and in relation to where your feed lines are placed would also affect how well the system is recirculated, or "mixed".

Right now I have a very similar system to what you describe, using six 5-gallon buckets each filled to approx. 3 gallons each, and an 18-gallon Rubbermaid reservoir filled to that level. I'm using an EcoPlus 396 GPH pump currently in submersible configuration, although I'm considering using this in an in-line configuration to reduce the amount of heat added to the reservoir. I can't really tell you how many times it's cycling per hour (even theorhetically), but it appears that it's moving enough water to do the job. I suppose if I could have it reliably and evenly mix the water once per hour, that would be enough... but it certainly "feels" like it's doing quite a bit more than that. I think the 396gph EcoPlus cost me less than $30.

I have two rows of three buckets each, each row having its own 3/4" return hose (each row shares a single 3/4" return using tees and elbows), meaning two 3/4" return lines. The feed lines are through a single 1/2" hose, with 1/4" tubing and barbs stabbed into the 1/2" just like blaze's setup. The six buckets are laid out to be "centered" in a 47" x 47" space (a HomeBox XL).

I've been thinking about installing a (non-clogging) mister on the tip of the feed line inside of the bucket, to help oxygenating the nutrient solution. In reality I'm not sure how effective this would be compared to a jet stream shooting into the water below, but it sounds like a neat idea at the moment.

[Trichome Toker]

We have all most the same exact setup.

I use T barbs for every bucket, and I actually make one big circle instead of using elbow barbs for the last two buckets.

I have two 1000w vertical bulbs hanging in between the buckets like:

Bucket----------Bucket------------Bucket
-----------Light-------------Light-------------
Bucket----------Bucket------------Bucket

So each light is totally surrounded by trees.

Only six plants, but it puts out about 5 pounds a run on average.

That is cool how much the same our hydro setups are, I don't know about your lighting, but everything else is all most exactly the same, I even use an 18 gallon Rubbermaid for my controller, because my float valve wouldn't fit in a bucket.

How did you install your float valve?

I fill up my controller until the buckets hit the right level, then drilled a hole right at that water level in the controller for the float valve.

I can rotate the plastic thing to make the level slightly higher or lower if you know what I mean.

[clowntown]

Originally Posted by Trichome Toker

So each light is totally surrounded by trees.

I don't know much about vertical / side lighting, so: Do you rotate your plants, or do the walls do a good enough job of reflection to not require this?

Originally Posted by Trichome Toker

Only six plants, but it puts out about 5 pounds a run on average.

Very impressive.

This will be my first run on this sytem, and also the first time under this wattage (600w) and ballast. Lumatek 600w/120v + EYE Hortilux Super HPS + Hydrotek SilverStar reflector. Also have a Cool Tube in stand-by mode (currently used with my 250w digital ballast) to try side lighting in the future, with the bulb hung in the center of the "circle" of buckets, with the reflective insert removed.

Went with 6 buckets instead of 4 for slightly less veg time, but I may reduce it down to 4 in the future if my DIY chiller can't keep up in the summertimes.

Originally Posted by Trichome Toker

That is cool how much the same our hydro setups are, I don't know about your lighting, but everything else is all most exactly the same, I even use an 18 gallon Rubbermaid for my controller, because my float valve wouldn't fit in a bucket.

How did you install your float valve?

Amazing... very similar reasons. I could have *made* my all-PVC mini adjustable float valve fit inside a 5-gallon bucket, but it wouldn't have been pretty. What really pushed me to go with the larger one was to be able to fit my pump, plumbing and the coil from my DIY chiller in without interfering with the float valve. The float valve is installed on the narrow side (where the handles are).

Originally Posted by Trichome Toker

I fill up my controller until the buckets hit the right level, then drilled a hole right at that water level in the controller for the float valve.

About the same; I filled mine to get a level, then found the nearest convenient spot to run the lines for the float valve from the fresh-water tank (another 18 gallon Rubbermaid, for now, but soon downsizing to something like 13 gallons or smaller). Having the adjustable float valve helps with this, also in case I want to raise or lower the water level in the future.

Originally Posted by Trichome Toker

I can rotate the plastic thing to make the level slightly higher or lower if you know what I mean.

Mine is adjustable by a plastic/nylon wing nut on the adjustable arm.

[Trichome Toker]

Originally Posted by clowntown

I don't know much about vertical / side lighting, so: Do you rotate your plants, or do the walls do a good enough job of reflection to not require this?

Yes, the light easily penetrates through the trees.

I don't have a digital camera yet, unfortunately, but I think this picture from another forum will give you an idea:


Here is the thread, to give you an idea of what vertical lighting is capable of, this person actually uses 600w'ers like you:
https://advancednutrientsmedical.ca/f...ad.php?t=15761

Very impressive.

Thanks, it just takes a decent amount of veg time.

7 weeks from seed, or 4 weeks from rooted clone.

This will be my first run on this sytem, and also the first time under this wattage (600w) and ballast. Lumatek 600w/120v + EYE Hortilux Super HPS + Hydrotek SilverStar reflector. Also have a Cool Tube in stand-by mode (currently used with my 250w digital ballast) to try side lighting in the future, with the bulb hung in the center of the "circle" of buckets, with the reflective insert removed.

Went with 6 buckets instead of 4 for slightly less veg time, but I may reduce it down to 4 in the future if my DIY chiller can't keep up in the summertimes.

You should get an amazing yield with 6 buckets and 600w.

DIY chiller?

Wow, could I get a link, sounds very interesting!

Amazing... very similar reasons. I could have *made* my all-PVC mini adjustable float valve fit inside a 5-gallon bucket, but it wouldn't have been pretty. What really pushed me to go with the larger one was to be able to fit my pump, plumbing and the coil from my DIY chiller in without interfering with the float valve. The float valve is installed on the narrow side (where the handles are).

I just have a standard float valve, not adjustable, but by rotating the ball type device on the end that floats I can change the water level up to 3" which has been good so far.

I might go for an adjustable one in the future, just for experimenting with lower levels though.

About the same; I filled mine to get a level, then found the nearest convenient spot to run the lines for the float valve from the fresh-water tank (another 18 gallon Rubbermaid, for now, but soon downsizing to something like 13 gallons or smaller). Having the adjustable float valve helps with this, also in case I want to raise or lower the water level in the future.


Mine is adjustable by a plastic/nylon wing nut on the adjustable arm.

I see, so you can basically put yours anywhere, and just adjust it from there.

Very nice.

[clowntown]

The Dopest's DIY chiller:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=33123

[Trichome Toker]

Thanks awesome!

[Trichome Toker]

P.S.

This is the float valve I use, the same one as blaze:



I meant I rotate that white thing to the side if I want it to start floating at a lower level.

[clowntown]

Ah, gotcha. I use the all-PVC (minus the stainless steel internal valve) one:

[Trichome Toker]

I see, you loosen the nut to move the white thing around?

Very nice.

With mine I can only loosen/tighten the white thing on the screw.