04-06-2006, 02:18 AM
The Helpful One
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: In my garden!
Time to install 1/4" feed lines and run the 1/4" air lines!
First we will using a sharp pointy object,I used a cooking thermometer,Works like a charm.We need to poke a hole into the 1/2" Id tubing directly below the 1/4" barb on the bucket installed for the feed line,Make sure its properly lined up for neatness.
Ok lets insert a 1/4" straight barb into the hole we just made.Make sure it is all the way down into the tubing so it does not leak.
Ok now connect a piece of 1/4" ID tubing onto the 1/4" barbs and run it to the 1/4" barbs installed on the buckets for the feed lines.
Ok now all that is left is connecting the 1/4" air lines and row one is complete.
Now its just a repeat process for rows 2,3&4 the pics explain each step,But its just repeating the steps from row 1!
Hooking up the reservoir!
What i do is set my reservoir up on a crate,Then run a 1/2" line from the res to the controller,Connecting it to the barb for the float valve,This is how the system will get auto topp off during the week.
Nutrient solution temps
Now for this type of system i recommend investing in a good water chiller,That is correct horse power for the job,The main problem most people have in dwc is root rot do too high res/nutrient solution temps which cause the water to have lower DO (dissolved Oxygen levels and can cause the water to become stagnant and that combined with high ppm solution will eventually lead to root rot.Nutrient solution temps should be kept in the ranges of 67f-71f no higher or lower for optimal growth.There are a couple types of chillers available on the market,One type is an inline which requires a pump to pump the nutrient solution through the chiller.The other is a coil chiller,For this one you simply run the coil into the controller so as the pump recirculates the water it is chilled as it passes the coil.Either of the 2 will work so its preference really,If you cannot afford the chiller then you must resort to a cheap alternative to help keep the res temps down.Take empty 2 liter bottles and fill them with water freeze them and just drop them into the controller.You will more than likely need to do this multiple times through-out a day to keep optimal nutrient solution temperatures.
For this system i am using a 1/3hp coil chiller,Little overboard but will be could upgrade to 40 buckets in future using this chiller,So always think ahead a few extra $$$ now can save some in the future.
Ok heres a chart adjust as needed to maximize growth with your particular strains needs,This is just a good guideline to get you close enough to insure no problems,To allow you to find your plants optimal nutrient levels and adjust to the strains needs.A good thing to do is slowly test your strains raise the ppm's a little drop it a little,Same with the ph take note of the differences in growth save it and use it to see where your getting the increased health and vigor then keep it set at proper levels.Test it often through-out the whole grow slowly making adjustments,You will eventually find the levels your strain best grows at.All strains have different genetic make/ups,And will require different levels of nutrients,And temperature/humidity levels to maximize yeilds/production,So be sure to slowly change all aspects a little at a time and learn your strain,Then maximize your growth/Yeilds!
Seedlings and clones 300-400ppm 5.3-5.5 ph
early vegg 500-600ppm 5.3-5.6 ph
middle vegg 600-800ppm 5.4-5.6 ph
late vegg 800-1000ppm 5.5-5.7 ph
early flower 1000-1300ppm 5.5-5.7 ph
middle flower 1400-1600ppm 5.5-5.8 ph
late flower 1000-1100ppm 5.5-5.7 ph
ripening 300-500ppm 5.4-5.6 ph
seedlings and clones 250-350ppm 5.3-5.5 ph
early vegg 300-500ppm 5.3-5.6 ph
middle vegg 500-700ppm 5.4-5.6 ph
late vegg 700-900ppm 5.5-5.7 ph
early flower 1000-1100ppm 5.5-5.7 ph
middle flower 1100-1300ppm 5.5-5.8 ph
late flower 800-1000ppm 5.5-5.7 ph
ripening 300-500ppm 5.4-5.6 ph
Last edited by blazeoneup; 04-25-2006 at 02:29 PM..
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