High Yield Organics!

Hey everyone!

Lots of people say chemicals produce the biggest yields. I don't think this is true.

Here is my latest run using Veganics. I did two plants per 1000 watt light and bent them using a modified super cropping method. I used West Coast Horticulture Grow 213, Bloom 224, Micronutrients and Chelated Calcium. I used wire tie stapled to the ceiling to tie up all the heavy buds so they would fill out fully. I have found not tying the buds up lowers yields substantially. Yield was very high quality Sour Diesel and just over two Lbs per 1000 watt lights! Does anyone else have experience using West Coast Horticulture nutrients?

I have grown with chemicals and organic nutrients over the years and as far as I can tell organics produce just as good of yields as chemicals.

Hey CC. Welcome. Haven't seen you 'round these parts.

Garden looks good but I doubt you'll get much response to your nutes question. Most of us around here are using very few, if any, bottles of anything on our gardens.

And yes, you'll find many growers here that get huge yields. Give your plants a nice living soil with everything they need available to them whenever they need it and they'll give you everything they've got. No artificial boosters needed.

I was going to say the same thing..... most of us don't consider "veganics" to be a thing and prefer not to use any chelated nutrients.... calcium.... or really any bottled nutrients.

However, big yields... yes!!!

and you are on the right path man.... keep it up and come read around the organics sections.

I personally went from hydro to bagged soil and foxfarm stuff to soil-less to hydro to another hydro then to coco, but then went with all organic bottled nutrients and had a great grow like you just did.... then I thought, why use the bottles at all... is that possible. Holy SHIT i'm glad I asked that question... it just keeps getting better man.

Is that your first veganic run?

While I am new to some of these things, I am thinking the 'veganic' type nutrients are just fermented plant extracts...take a look at the thread on that
as for chelated anything, I believe real humic acid, or fulvic acid (nothing from leonardite) naturally chelate minerals and nutes for uptake, not lab chelated acid salts

dont get me wrong, I have a few bottles, but they are fulvic acid, silica, neem oil, peppermint oil, and some aloe.
But look into the similarity to fermented plant extracts, (and, i think, fruit extracts like papaya and pinapple for the enzymes, not sure) to the veganic nute ingredients
like mhg said, youre on the right track, and in the right place for information.
hope this helps ya, ask if ya need anything
peace

^^^ sorry man, superthrive aint organic, and if i recall correctly, the secret ingredient is iaa, baa, or iba, i think, all hormones that are not approved for food crops, let alone organic.
same with clonex

my advice is to not use your bottles on anything consumable, if you know them to be non-organic
your veganic nutes, maybe you could create a living soil and run the veganics side by side. if you use the same strain, new bulbs for both grows, same size pots(big pots = bigger yields), then that will be a rather interesting side-by-side experiment
or use em on the garden, as tsr said
peace

there is only one type of plant that produces BIG yields...happy ones...

I'm using west coast Hordiculture , I use the whole regiment for soil. Let me know if anyone out there is using it but it is expensive.

if anyone thinks organic yields less then chem nutes, just ask the Rodale Institute on their opinion and studies. they also found that organic plants tolerated heat and drought stress far better verses chem nuted plants.

^ very true

A plant's inherent genetic potential cannot be increased, therefore yields cannot be increased. All we can do is prevent yields from being lost, and mitigating stress is the key behind that. Supplying the plant with a medium where it can pick and choose what it wants to eat, and when it wants to eat it greatly reduces stress, while simultaneously increasing shock resistance - compared to force feeding a plant a plate of chelated nutrients that bypass the entire food web as a whole. I've seen heavier yields in an organic setting than I ever have in my 10 years of running synthetics.. I'll never go back.

"organic" is a MOOT term imo... at least nowadays since it has been smeared so much.

At least IMHO...

I prefer to use the term NATURAL ORGANICS, as just organics along can refer
to crude oil or alcohol, and well frankly people like details lol


IMO... The Soil Food Web, Cation Exchange Capacity(CEC) and Carbon/Nitrogen ratio(C/N)
are the MAIN concepts that should one should have a WORKING UNDERSTANDING



Ive been a produce gardener for 7 yrs now and I have been doing hella research
on the chemical reactions within the soil zone regarding ALL ASPECTS, bugs...bacteria...fungi...humics...Organic Matter...etc...etc... and let me tell you...

When you grow outside, there is a sense of PEACE and pure simplicity that
one becomes addicted to and develops the urge to master that same PEACE and SIMPLICITY on the INDOOR growing front.


and let me tell you...

For EASE of indoor natural organic gardening... one must ramp up their
HUMUS content and be sure that loads of nutrients are mixed into the soil, whether
thats top dressing or thoroughly mixing. I have found those to be of the utmost
importance in the INDOOR REALM.

Along with the humus content, one most be sure that they amend PLENTY/ENOUGH
ROCK DUSTS in order to get a nice population of trace minerals.


Add EWC and Seed Germ Teas along with teas from bio accumulators such as Comfrey or alfalfa, and your off to the races.



I have for YEARS believed that Natural Organics can and WILL out perform any
Chemical dominate growing regime.



BUT i will also be the first to admit that once someoen has dialed in their LIVING SOIL...
The addition of chemical ferts utilized in the PROPER and RESPONSIBLE manner,
will result in a BEST OF BOTH WORLDS paradigm SHIFT!!!!

NO JOKE...


I know that last comment might rub some people the wrong way...

BUT id urge those that are rubbed wrong by my chemical comment to please
take the time to read

Donald Hopkins book: humus, chemicals and the soil.

its a great read and gives you the nitty gritty on the SCIENCE behind chemicals
and all of the data of past years in history that actually point TOWARD the use of
chemicals in an IRRESPONSIBLE and IMPROPER MANNER...
(the argument AGAINST chemicals have never had any REAL scientific research pointing
toward a SOLID fact that chemicals are the cause of issues... which in reality over the years
all of the arguments have only expressed that the MISUSE of chemicals causes these issues...
they never show the tests and experiments that suggest the PROPER use of chemicals...
it has been pretty ONE SIDED for about... 100-200 yrs now, why? Because the average
gardener isnt a chemist nor a botanist... they simply just DONT KNOW... I dont wanna
say "they dont understand" for fear of someone here taking that outta context)


People have been RELYING on chemicals as the SOUL nutrient source for plants...
this is IMPROPER use of chemicals and very irresponsible.

Chemicals are a TOOL in the tool shed...

Chemicals and Natural Living Soil can and DO compliment each other when
used properly.




1-2 gpw with MJ IS a realistic goal Ill prove it soon enough lol
But damn is there a lot of studying involved lol



Cheers, hope I was half way on topic... Im highly supporting the OP.
Love and Light

Check out the term sustainable.....much better fitting than 'organic'.

Boy do I hate that term....organic...

This thread is old, but I find it funny when someone is talking yields, organics, and bottled nutrients all in the same sentence.

"Say what?"

Quality over quantity any day.

Anyone can veg a plant for 4 months, and get a larger yield. Without factoring in the veg time, flower time, etc. you can not gauge "true" yields.

Funny marijuana growers.

Photosynthesis said:

This thread is old, but I find it funny when someone is talking yields, organics, and bottled nutrients all in the same sentence.

"Say what?"

Quality over quantity any day.

Anyone can veg a plant for 4 months, and get a larger yield. Without factoring in the veg time, flower time, etc. you can not gauge "true" yields.

Funny marijuana growers.

Click to expand...

I think that the only factors needed to gauge "true" yields is TRUE GWP (not just the light, but fans, etc.) and harvests/year.

CannaBrix said:

I think that the only factors needed to gauge "true" yields is TRUE GWP (not just the light, but fans, etc.) and harvests/year.

Click to expand...

GPW is relative to the rest of your statement, but I do sort of agree. This topic has been discussed at length many times before.

I tend not to pay a lot of attention to it as quality should always rule out over quantity.

I think its just easier for a person to get high yield with chems...I know it was for me...it takes more dedication and work initially for organics unless your following an exact recipe from someone....with chems that's easily available....that said organics rule in my book reguardless. I can round up a lot of my inputs...you don't find bottles of nutes just growing or in a bin ...worms eat my garbage

Photosynthesis said:

This thread is old, but I find it funny when someone is talking yields, organics, and bottled nutrients all in the same sentence.

"Say what?"

Quality over quantity any day.

Anyone can veg a plant for 4 months, and get a larger yield. Without factoring in the veg time, flower time, etc. you can not gauge "true" yields.

Funny marijuana growers.

Click to expand...

Photo nailed it. Who has the greater bragging rights?

The guy who grows with 18 hours of light for 4 to 6 weeks, then flips to 12 hours for 75 (avg) days of flowering and ends up with 2 lb per light. Then he needs to reamend his growing media or at least mix it up and remove roots. (plant to harvest = 110 days approx avg)

Or

The guy who grows with 18 hours of light for 10 to 14 days in a living soil then flips to 12 hours with a fast flower ripening cultivar finished in approximately 50 days ending with 1.5 lb per light. No need to reamend, nor transplant part way through; just pull out the immediate root ball (old peat pellet, etc) and plop in rooted cutting.
(plant to harvest = 62 days approx avg)

In scenario number one you may consider that one might add on at least 2 days for dealing with the media = 112 days. This means that in a year one gets 3.26 harvests @ 2 lb per light = 6.52 lbs per light per year. Also consider having to deal with the extra plant tissue, trimming lots of leaves, etc.

In scenario number two in a year one would get 5.89 harvests in a year @ 1.5 lb per light = 8.84 lbs per light per year. The bonuses are that; no remix of soil, the lights were on less, the quality is likely higher, the plant is finished at around 18 inches tall and is practically all floral clusters, so less trimming is required.

If this is for other people then another attribute is a clean conscience. Do the math. You may also alter flowering times etc. but I believe one still comes out ahead using natural living soil techniques.

BTW, this movie is based on a true story

ya just cut it down to 45 days and sour bubble ....yeehaw

If you have an 18 to 24 hr room in addition to a 12 hr room, start the 18 to 24 hr room with a 12 hr light cycle ten days to two weeks before harvesting the 12 hr room.

This way your plants entering the 12 hr room will be ten days to two weeks ahead of schedule.

This time adds up giving you an x-tra harvest or two per year with the same plant count, floor space and wattage of lights.

This works great for small plant count laws.