What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

2k Perpetual Mineral-Rich Living Soil

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
Hey all,
Just thought I would share my garden with you fine folks, and start a log of sorts and see what we can learn from each other.

Cause thats what this is all about right the sharing of info.

I am using a soil mix I have made myself for use right away. It has little N sources or anything that needs to breakdown to much, so no need to "cook"
Depending on how this goes I may move to a more nutrient rich mix such as Gas's in the ROLS thread or just keep this going with a top dressing of good things.

I would like to thank all of the regular posters here in the organic soil forum and the ROLS thread ( you guys know who you are), Alot of great information has been spread and I have learned a great deal and I am very appreciative.

A great deal of what I base my grow on is what I have learned in the ROLS and the any great books available through Acres USA as well as the mag itself and Ag- Conferences I try to attend.

Mineral rich, humus rich soil where the plant controls what it eats, not us. We only stimulate the plant to grow faster by way of foliar sprays and active root drenches of various forms.

So I have a 2k room in flower with another 1000w also in flower as a start to a perpetual garden pulling at random times as I have some 8 weekers and some 10 + ers.

My strains that I am running now are ChemD and Original Diesel my 2 favs, I plan on running about 70 days.

I am also running 2 Phenos of The FLav, Jack the Ripper and Agent Orange... So far not impressed... But I will go into that later.

My soil consists of the following....

1/3 SPM 5.5 c.f. compressed $14 bucks Earth Majestic
1/3 Perlite - I am sourcing a better amendment just what I had
1/6 wormcastings
1/6 Just right xtra - I made the mistake of trying to get out making soil and this stuff sucks. So I came up with this mix but had 13 bags sitting around so I used them. All good stuff just a bad mix.

Added per gal of complete mix-
1 Tlbs Crab Shell - Ca Chitin and N
1 tsp. Gypsum - Ca, S
1 tsp dolo -Ca, Mg Will replace with marl and Carbonatite
1 tsp Neem meal - Only had a little on hand
1 tsp CalPhos -Ca, P (now and later) colloidal Clay and 72 trace minerals
1 tsp Sul-Po-Mag -S,K,Mg
1 Tlbs GReensand -K,Iorn and trance minerals - breaks down into high energy clay
1 Tlbs Kelp - K, trace minerals and hormones and growth stims.
1 tsp. Alfalfa -N, trance minerals, growth stim and to stimulate biology
1 Tlbs Planters 2 -P, Trace minerals and paramagnetic activity
1 tsp Azomite -Clay trace minerals
This mix I just planted right into and watered with a Molasses, Kelp, enzyme and Organic Nep fish Hydrolsys. Also seeing as this mix is a little light on the inputs I have been using fish Hydrolysis as a feed souce, as wells teas.

I have been using various teas of all kinds. Kelp, Alfalfa, Nettles, compfrey. As well as sprout teas, AACT, aloe and humcs and fuvics.

I have also taken CC's advice about 1 Tlbs of Sul-po-mag in a gal. of water until it breaks down and then drench. I do this when they get flipped to flower. I have also added to that mix a 1/4 cup CalPhos (soft rock Phosphate) and 1/4 tsp. of Ful-humics from Bio ag.

My thought behind this is plants use Ca to build frame and they build alot during strech as well as use alot of P which it will get in great non burning froms from the Calphos as well as co-enzymes from the minerals in the colloidal clay. THe Mg and S will help in greening up the plant and other roles while K is needed to make all this move around the plant. All being given to the soil in cleated and available forms from the colloidal clays and the Ful-humics. I also do this at week 2 of flower.

I top dressed all plants with a little more worm and alfalfa hay. THe alfalfa hay is not ground or prossesed in anyway. Cut, bailed, packaged as I bought it from my local pet store. Probably payed to much but best I can do out of season. Luckly it was organic.

I also topdressed with Zeolite and Carbonatite as I got the after I mixed my first batch. I am really excited about these materials. I will go more into them later.....

Thats my mix and a little back round. I am in the process of refining my execution time on teas and foilars as to when I do them and What I use. I will use this to track my progress and to hopefully have some pointers from anyone who thinks they might have some insightful suggestions.

I would like to keep this peaceful, kind and open to all ideas pretending to the upkeep of microbial life and the bettering of plant health, no matter how out there they may seem.

Thank you all
Timbuktu
 

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
c-ray, Thanks for your response.

Greensand is a iron potassium phyllosilicate made up of multi layer clay particles (mica and clay). greensand is a conglomerate of glauconoite and other aluminum phyllosilicate minerals.

From my understanding through microbial action glauconoite is further broken down into smaller less complex clays but still with high CEC

I can not find anything about it being radioactive. This is what I found on the web. http://rruff.info/doclib/hom/glauconite.pdf or this http://webmineral.com/data/Glauconite.shtml

I use the k-mag a boost to chlorophyll (Mg) a little more K to help things get moving and the S is for a Stiener puts it "Sulfur is what the spirit moistens its fingers with to work into the physical" Or how Hugh Lovel explains it "the key to the ignition" or the chief catalyst so I feel a couple of shots in their most rapid growth might help.

I try and go by what your quote

timbuktu
 
C

c-ray

it was organic fertilizer salesperson that told me about greensand being radioactive, I was asking about hard rock phosphate not greensand so I dunno if I believe the guy but maybe he does know something too. hopefully I don't offend any greensand aficionados

I think Steiner was big on the K-Mag but more as a help for minerally depleted land to get it up and flowing..
 

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
Well from my understanding and what I have researched is that Plutonium -210 is in most Phsopate reserves, Hard, soft, processed the works. I says it is a very small amount and is a very weak radioactive source. A piece of paper or the human skin can stop its rays.

It also said that plants can't take up Plutonium -210 from the roots. Yes plants absorb it but from the air. Is is a by product or the breakdown of uranium.

Thank you atomic age for polluting our air with radiation, and now after hukashima (sp.) We have more to worry about or not because there is nothing that can be done about that now.

I like calphos a great drench for the beginning of stretch to supply Ca for frame build, on of the Critical points of influence where you can affect yield.

Not soluble but available.

Timbuktu
 

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
I just thought i might say some thing about the power of sprouts. DAMN they kick ass.

My plants love sprout teas. I have been using alfalfa sometimes and a mix of alfalfa mung, broccoli, pea and some thing else. My plants are cranking.

Not only my little ladies but all of my house plants as well. I have been using the rinse water to hit my house plants and they have never looked so good. 3 out of 5 Orchids now blooming, had a couple of sick plants, not anymore, better then ever and throwing off new growth in unexpected places.

Most of the time the day after I hit something the growth is just jaw dropping.

Some of my friends ask what i would use as a bloom booster or growth enhancer I would say spouts all the way. I have some between 3 days and 2 weeks out and they are the frostiest most aromatic I have seen these strains since I have been running them.

I have been searching High and low for barley but cant seen to find any, so I got some hard red wheat to try.

I have a question. I know most sprouts grow a long tap root and then the first leaves but these have narley roots8.

I was wondering at what point I should start my soak to make the tea?

Normal I wait till the first leaves just break out of the shell, then soak for 24 hours.

I just checked the sprouts and they have about 1/4 to 1/2 inch roots I thing tomm I will start my soak.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Timbuktu
 

W89

Active member
Veteran
im brew a seed sprout tea as I type... I wait for between half and 1 inch tap roots before bubbling for 24 - 36 hours..
 

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
Yea I have a mixed seed one going now I just haven't ventured into the grasses yet.

Just wanted to make sure I am on track.

Timbuktu
 

W89

Active member
Veteran
im using a mix of organic alfalfa, organic mung beans, organic aduki beans, organic chick peas and organic lentils.. will be ordering barley when I run out of these
 
Top