Solvents and Triacontanol.

waddup guys

I wanna see what and how everyone dissolves their TRIA.

and also want to know if anyone has used any of these solvents :

ethanol, benzene, soluble in ethyl ether, chloroform, methylene chloride and thermal benzene to dissolve tria.

I have tried :

poly20+water+heat
isopropyl 70 and 91% + heat
cold and hot acetone

i get clear results with poly20 mix and flaky results with iso and acetone (flaky mixtures)

Anyone have any easier ways to dissolve this substance?

Benzene is not an option since it is highly carcinogenic, but you can try to make it soluble in water with lecithin.

Keep on growing

I wish I could discuss it, but cannot. I use mostly whole alfalfa in my beds, meal or pellets at times, and teas. I labored under the false impression that I was getting some triacontanol from the teas, but now I understand I'm not. Since I'm afraid to try making an extraction (fire!), I just let the biology sort it out for me.

I do understand that it is not easy to get it into solution, either.

If nothing else, perhaps this will serve as good bump.

Whole alfalfa pellets works fine too, but the release of it is slower.had good results with it last year with my corn.
I understand that poly20 is polysorbate 20 which acts as an emulsifier also just like lecithin, only for organic grow not permitted.Polysorbate 20 may be contaminated with carcinogenic 1,4-Dioxane.Extra effect of using lecithin (non-GMO) is the growth enhancement and the release of phosphorus.

Keep on growing

i like how poly20 will keep your solution liquid clear with no crystalizing, vs acetone and alcohol will leave flakes after heating and mixing.

now after time either the poly20 or the actual wax on tria will break out solution and form white jello stuff in your solution which is what im triying to avoid.

i found this guide from a seller and since tria is 90% pure with 10% other stuff this guide makes sense. (10% being the stuff that breaks out of solution)

has anyone tried poly20 mixed vs acetone/alcohol mixed too see if effects are similiar?

also having a tria mix with acetone is more ideal as you can store it as a concentrate in your freezer, and dilute it whenever you need a working solution.

Here is the guide

Mixing the chemical Triacontanol to use.

The manufacturers of this chemical advise to prepare the solution for application as follows.........



As a dilution example: How to make a 25ppm Triacontanol solution for spraying foliage.

25ppm is equivalent to 25mg/1000ml (1.0litre).

Weigh 25mg triacontanol powder.( A cheap portable battery electronic digital scale is easy to use and widely available on the internet or eBay) * see section below if wanting to estimate!

Dissolve powder in a small volume of alcohol. 5-10ml. Alcohol solvents listed above. The solution may need slight heating to improve solubility. Take care with flammable liquids! Any white deposits seen after dissolving are manufacturing wax. The active plant growth regulators (PGR) of Triacontanol will be already dissolved, however this wax can be removed by either adding a larger volume of alcohol solvents or heating again. When the wax has dissapeared, add this to your final water volume. Any wax deposits will be broken down by bacteria during the course of uptake by plants. It will not harm plant foliage or roots.

Alternatively dissolve in 1-2ml of Polysorbate20. Polysorbate solutions do not require heating. Using a pyrex test tube makes this very easy. After dissolving, shake the mix well. You will be left with a white emulsion concentrate. You may see some white wax deposits from manufacturing. This is normal

Measure 1000ml (1.0litre) of good quality water and to this add the freshly mixed solution. Shake or stir.

For triacontanol diluted with alcohols, add a foliage wetter such as Physan 20, Add 1-5 drops. If this wetter is not available use liquid hand dish washing soap at 1-5 drops. There is no need to add a foliage wetter if you have used Polysorbate20

Use an inexpensive hand sprayer to spray your plants with. It is best to shake before each spraying. Aim for coating the upper surface of the plant leaves thoroughly, Spay enough to allow drip down from the leaves. Spray stems and shoots also. Do not spray during bright sunshine. Aim to spray at the beginning of the day, when plants are starting to grow. Do not allow leaves to remain wet overnight.

Store this spray solution in the refrigerator or cool and aim to spray and use. If the solution is cold, remember to bring the solution temperature up to that of the foliage before spraying to stop cold damage to leaves.

.....

sup curandero

ive seen that guide and i really doubt mbferts knows how to mix tria. he uses too much poly which makes the final solution into paste once cooled.

looking for something that can be mixed cold.

SeaMaiden said:

I wish I could discuss it, but cannot. I use mostly whole alfalfa in my beds, meal or pellets at times, and teas. I labored under the false impression that I was getting some triacontanol from the teas, but now I understand I'm not. Since I'm afraid to try making an extraction (fire!), I just let the biology sort it out for me.

I do understand that it is not easy to get it into solution, either.

If nothing else, perhaps this will serve as good bump.

Click to expand...

I received an important correction that I'd like to quote here.

<--- dizzlekush for correcting and spreading information.

dizzlekush said:

The truth is TRIA has a miscibility of ~0.3ppm in water without the addition of any solvents/ emulsifiers. So if you make an alfalfa tea, you should get a ~0.3ppm TRIA solution with extra insoluble TRIA in the tea solution that will not get evenly dispersed or absorbed through the cuticular layer.

The only reason this might not be true is if 100% of the TRIA in alfalfa is locked up in insoluble fiber, which i find hard to believe.

have a good one,
dizzle

Click to expand...

I know this doesn't answer the question of best solvent, but I felt it's important to correct.

i think the problem lies with the wax. there isint many solvents that will dissolve the wax, and i "think" the tria is held within the wax.

maybe some mineral spirits or petro product will open up the wax vs heating, and after the breakdown of the wax u can mix it in plain acetone, (i think) in theory of course.

KING dizzlekush

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4835054&postcount=146

REMEMBER SAFETY

....I KNOW IT WONT HAPPEN TO ME ....... said the one eyed man

I can't dissolve my stuff in alcohol either.. leaves a flaky mess even after being clear when hot.

mrkushpants said:

I can't dissolve my stuff in alcohol either.. leaves a flaky mess even after being clear when hot.

Click to expand...

That means you're over the saturation point. Dissolving less will work (you just have to figure the solubility in ethanol out: for example HERE)... but then you have to spray more alcohol which may not be appreciated by the plants (or the electric circuits ).
Anyway, Tria is not well soluble even in chloroform which leaves the microcrystalline dispersion and the mixed micelles as sole possibilities.