[the ringmasta]

High All,

I'll document my grow of the BKGK Bx1 here.

A brief backdrop on my setup before I get into everything. I run a few smaller tents and have some height constrictions. My flowering tents are either 2x2x5ft or 2x4x5ft. The wider of the two currently has a 400w HPS and a 250w MH going...and the other has a combo a 400w HPS and about 150-200w of LED lights as as well.

I also have a small veg chamber with a 180w Blackstar LED and a couple T5 CFL fixtures. With all that being said, my plants never really get a ton of veg time...probably a month tops before they are either put into 2 or 3 gallon Geopots to flower. I know the short veg inhibits my yield, but this is the best way for me to maximize the space I have and be able to run multiple strains at a time. I also intend to make seed with these...or take cuts...I'll decide that as we progress here.

My temps do fluctuate a bit at my location as well. Recorded temps in these tents over the last months have gone as low as mid 50's and as high as mid 80's.

I am also completely organic and make my own supersoil using a base of FF OF and FF Light Warrior. If anyone wants my amendment list feel free to PM. I don't use nutrients aside from calmag if needed and some molasses in flower...otherwise it's well water from the tap, and let the soil do its work.

[the ringmasta]

Here's a few shots of 4 different BKGK that are a little more than 2 weeks old.

I also have another 4 of these a little further along (+2-3 weeks and already set into 12/12). Problem is...during re-potting(and smoking simultaneously), they got mixed with a few other strains and nothing got labeled. Once they get older...I'm guessing Frank and others might be able to identify. I'll get pictures of those when I can.


Side and Above view of first couple BKGK Bx1

[the ringmasta]

And the other two...

[dank.frank]

Looking good!! You'll want to watch the plants in the first 2 and the last picture for turning purple in flower...

You'll start to notice the first hues and changes starting to set in between the 6-7th week.

Now, I'm as capable of being wrong as the next guy...but if I was tending these seedlings, I'd have made such a mental note on those two.


dank.Frank

[the ringmasta]

A few (I think I've got 3) of my bkgk bx1 females have begun throwing pistils and are looking very nice. I'll get some pictures of them in a week or so.

I've also had a couple nice looking males, although one was a bit stretchy for me and didn't seem to have as many flower sites as the stocky fellow below. Over the last couple weeks I've gotten whiffs of that burnt rubber like smell which is the most prominent, but I've also gotten a sniff of some type of sour berry at times (sour blackberries, black currant maybe...can't really describe it).

I'm probably going to isolate him and collect some pollen to hit a BKGK bx1 female...and I'm thinking about hitting a couple branches of a choice CVT Purple Berry x Alien Kush (have about 3 at same age as BKGK bx1's).

I've only produced seeds twice outdoors which consists of doing next to nothing...so I'm very new at indoor "pollen chucking" so-to-speak. Any advice, techniques, or guidance along the way is appreciated.

This guy will probably be finishing out by himself under a 180W Blackstar Chrome LED by the way...



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[the ringmasta]

[dank.frank]

ohhhhh yeah. For sure. That male looks GREAT. I think I'd look for a bit more lateral branching in the fellas I select. I wonder how he acts if you top him...but he is CERTAINLY Sour Bubble dom if you are getting hints of burnt rubber on the stem rub. I DO really like his super tight internodes and fat leaves. He might breed some seriously nice single cola fatties. I also expect as he matures a bit his rubber smell will be a bit less distinct.

edit - Looking at that second picture in post #6 - are those a couple female pistils I see in the lower right at the internode?!?! I'd be hesitant to use him if that is the case. You will likely see an increase in intersex tendencies in the offspring, again, IF that is the case. And if he is your best looker - I'd take a clone and put him through some serious stress tests. Things such as photo period fluctuations, being root bound for an excessive period of time, ie 3+ wks - which also helps you establish response to lower nutrient situations, but also to better understand nutrient related stresses you can simply plant a cut in a medium without ever providing any food. Another thing to check on him is heat related stress and watering related stress - such as being in a drought or being over-watered and keeping track of root health during such...

All things various things can play into how and why you like / select a male. But I'd put him through the ringer and make CERTAIN he isn't showing and going to express an intersex trait via induced stress. Plus - knowing all the strengths and weaknesses of a male (or female for that matter) really helps you select and pair parent material much better as you know a bit more what to expect in a filial generation...

About pollen:

As far as pollen goes indoors - you can do it naturally by just leaving the male in the room and letting things take their natural course - or you can keep your male in the main flower room for the first couple weeks - then put him in an isolated under his own light - bring the ladies you want flowered out of the room to him when you want to pollinate. If I am just pollinating a couple branches - I'll collect the pollen by shaking the plant over a stainless bowl. You can apply the pollen using many various methods - fingertip, paintbrush, Q-tip, etc... I like to take some thin 2mil construction plastic and lay it gently over portion of the plant I don't want pollen on - leaving the branches I want pollen on sticking out. After applying pollen, it will take anywhere from 24-48 hours to see browning pistils, but usually, you will notice the pistils begin to shrink back a bit and the tips will sort of crinkle a bit after about 10-12 hours. So, at lights out - I'll take a plant to the male area - dust the branches I want pollinated and then flick the lights out...leaving the plastic gently over the rest of the plant. When I come back in the morning, if the pistils have begun to shrink /crinkle a bit - I know I have a successful pollination - I'll mist the part of the plant under the plastic with a water bottle to make sure any stray pollen doesn't go where I don't want it, and if it does - it won't remain viable as it will get wet. So now, I have pollinated branches that even if they smack up against the rest of the plant there will be no issue with more seeds being made.

Most people will keep a female isolated for the entire 48 hour period until her hairs begin to brown to make 1000% certain that the pollen has taken, but I've gotten used to seeing the first few indications and don't wait that long any longer.


Storage:

I make a small pouch / envelope out of construction paper or an old paper bag. I'll place a desiccant of some type in the pouch - I prefer 10-20 silica beads but a small handful of rice works in a pinch as well. I'll let the pollen air dry in a WARM, DRY place for about 24 hours and then I dump it into the pouch....

As long as the pollen does not get ANY moisture in it - it will remain viable in this pouch for around 6 months...and then it starts to decline.

When I freeze pollen, I put it in small glass vials that have a screw top and I place a rubber o-ring on them. I'll put silica beads in these as well for freezing but also once filled double vac seal the small vials individually so I can get them out as needed. Pollen can remain viable frozen like this for years...


Okay - another brief essay in the Stank Bros forum...lol...but I hope there is a bit of information there you can utilize.

Keep 'em green - can't wait to see them flower out!



dank.Frank

[the ringmasta]

Thanks for stopping in Frank, and no worries on the post length . I enjoy reading your posts, and you bring a lot to the table in terms of your passion, and knowledge of the plant.

Appreciate all the pollen and storage info you posted as well. It's all stuff I have read over the years but never needed to utilize. You definitely saved me some time from referencing multiple threads to get all that content.

I noticed that same (hopefully not) pistil looking growth after I uploaded. Definitely looks like it...but I'll have to further inspect and report back.

I think the fact I use a bunch of LED/CFL light the veg chamber, paired with the short 21-35 day veg period keeps them really short and stout. This is good for me because I'm currently only working with three small tents that all cap out around 5ft and change...

Tent 1 - 2' x 4' x 5'3" - 400W Hortilux Blue and 400W Full Spectrum LED (actual draw around 60-70% of that).

Tent 2 - 2' x 4' x 5' - 400W HPS and 250W MH

Tent 3 - 2' x 3' x 5'3" - 400W HPS and a 2-bulb daylight 6500K T5 Fixture mounted to the side wall of tent.


Although, this guy did have a good deal of lateral undergrowth that probably would've stretched out during flower that I removed a week ago. Maybe I cut too much off him at once and it stressed him into throwing those pistils...

[the ringmasta]

Unfortunately the above was what it seemed to be. Found maybe a dozen pistils at a couple of the upper nodes. Space is always a premium for me...so I laid this one to rest.

I'm guessing this was probably due to some sort of temperature stress, rather than something involving light schedule or over/under-watering. I'm confident I don't have light leaks in the tent...and I'm hand watering every 3-4 days at the moment since I don't have my drip system set up currently. I've had large fluctuations from lights on/lights off the last couple months though. Highs in low 80's.....Lows all the way down to 50 a few times when it's gotten bitter cold outside where i'm at.

I'll get the females posted over the weekend hopefully.

[dank.frank]

Shame about that male...he looked pretty nice otherwise. Fwiw - Bubba can and does toss nanners when she has high P and low temps. She'll nanner up around 7-8wks. Not many - but two or three. I know many people will contest this - but I have pics. There are others that say the same - and they have cuts to prove it. Bomb Threat is one such cut, if I am not mistaken...

But either way - DOUBLING up on bubba and the introduction of old thai genes. I'm sure you'll find some that don't play nice.

However, the Bubba and the Sour Bubble Bx2 pair very well and really created that edge of stability that was needed in the BKGK x Digi Bx1 male that was used to make the Bx.

It's funny - as the same male was used for the FBPK seeds - and growers of those have reported only a few late flower nanners on one expression that tends to stay green, grow taller / more sativa stretch and has a less complex smell. So, when NOT paired back to Bubba (ie BKGK) - there was greater stability.

BKGK Bx1 was made as a preservation effort and the FBPK represents a step forward - or this is how I personally think about it. It's why the "purple kush" mix packs were such a great deal. Anyone that bought two mix packs (or 1 FBPK and 1 BKGK Bx1 respectively) can easily build their own stable purple lines from those base genetics that will stand superior to any local or Cali "purp" that has ever been.

Truly, the FBPK represents a grail purple for me...



dank.Frank