[D-Note]

I'm looking for advice on how to wire a high heat shut off into a 16k flower room. The wiring works such that a 100 amp contactor is tripped by a intermatic t103. This feeds a 100amp sub panel which controls my lights. The timer is run directly from the main panel. Would hate for my ac's to die on me without this wired in.

Necessary equipment and a wiring diagram would be immensely appreciated.

[deacon1503]

I'm sure plenty of.guys in here can answer this but I know Olyver on the Farm can. u could plug ur contractor trigger wire into a high temp shutoff thats in the room?

[DocCrow]

show me some pics of what you have and I will show you what you need and how to wire it so the lights go out if it gets too hot and come back on when temps drop to safe zone. I was an electrician.FWIW

DC

[PoopyTeaBags]

Originally Posted by D-Note

I'm looking for advice on how to wire a high heat shut off into a 16k flower room. The wiring works such that a 100 amp contactor is tripped by a intermatic t103. This feeds a 100amp sub panel which controls my lights. The timer is run directly from the main panel. Would hate for my ac's to die on me without this wired in.

Necessary equipment and a wiring diagram would be immensely appreciated.

umm im no electrictian but i think you doing it wrong...

if your doing a high heat shut off you need an digital thermoter that can be hooked up to a switch that will shut off the plugs.. i guess you could do the breaker but thats pointless as on the plugs you can install a restart function that starts the plugs back up...

and why would you want to shut off all 16k wouldnt you want to just shut off half???

[rives]

There are a lot of ways to go about doing this, it depends on what you are wanting to protect against and how you feel it is to best deal with it. Do you want it incorporated with smoke detection, is your a-c always capable of handling the heat load (at least if it is functional), etc. As PTB pointed out, you can start by feathering out some of your lighting and progressively dump more if the things don't cool down. You can dump the whole works and bring it back on as Doc mentioned, or you can have it latch out so that it needs to be manually reset. It all depends on what you want, how near you are to your grow, how often you visit, etc.

I'm setting up my new system to where it will dial back the wattage on the ballasts, if that doesn't do it then it will dump sections of lighting, and if that doesn't take care of things all of the lights go out. If a smoke detector trips, a shunt-trip breaker kills the whole thing.

[deacon1503]

Originally Posted by rives

There are a lot of ways to go about doing this, it depends on what you are wanting to protect against and how you feel it is to best deal with it. Do you want it incorporated with smoke detection, is your a-c always capable of handling the heat load (at least if it is functional), etc. As PTB pointed out, you can start by feathering out some of your lighting and progressively dump more if the things don't cool down. You can dump the whole works and bring it back on as Doc mentioned, or you can have it latch out so that it needs to be manually reset. It all depends on what you want, how near you are to your grow, how often you visit, etc.

I'm setting up my new system to where it will dial back the wattage on the ballasts, if that doesn't do it then it will dump sections of lighting, and if that doesn't take care of things all of the lights go out. If a smoke detector trips, a shunt-trip breaker kills the whole thing.

I like that!

Originally Posted by rives

There are a lot of ways to go about doing this, it depends on what you are wanting to protect against and how you feel it is to best deal with it. Do you want it incorporated with smoke detection, is your a-c always capable of handling the heat load (at least if it is functional), etc. As PTB pointed out, you can start by feathering out some of your lighting and progressively dump more if the things don't cool down. You can dump the whole works and bring it back on as Doc mentioned, or you can have it latch out so that it needs to be manually reset. It all depends on what you want, how near you are to your grow, how often you visit, etc.

I'm setting up my new system to where it will dial back the wattage on the ballasts, if that doesn't do it then it will dump sections of lighting, and if that doesn't take care of things all of the lights go out. If a smoke detector trips, a shunt-trip breaker kills the whole thing.

Can you explain the smoke detector setup?

[PoopyTeaBags]

Originally Posted by TribalSeeds

Can you explain the smoke detector setup?

my guess is the smoke detectors are hardwired to the box and will trip if they go off...

[rives]

Originally Posted by TribalSeeds

Can you explain the smoke detector setup?

You can buy smoke detectors that just have an output relay whose contacts are closed upon activation. A shunt trip is a device that attaches to a breaker and trips it when a voltage is applied to it. I'm crunching the logic with an Allen-Bradley Micro plc.


Shunt trip - https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/...ries/WMZTST110

Breaker used with it - https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/...xx%29/WMZT2C10

[DocCrow]

Hardwired smoke detectors are all set up to be interconnected. They have a 3rd wire on them that, once triggered, sends a signal to the rest so they go off too. You could hook up the signal wire to a Normally Closed relay so it kills the power if the detector goes off.

EDIT: looks like Rivers beat me to the punch. I would just hook it up to a normally closed relay so it kills the lighting contactor.