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Old 03-01-2006, 03:00 PM #1
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2 problems-Proud daddy

Hello folks,

Some plants look nice, green and healty,and some have rusty spots on the leaves, and 2 plants have claw-like leaves.Some of them also have leaves curved up and inward (the edges).
They are all in soil, fed once weekly with Plagron organic fertilizer, and wattered by need in between. The temp is 25C, humidity between 50-70% (we had rainy weather), and the light is set to 20/4 (600W Hpsm set 70cm above). The ventilation is good, and there is one oscilating fan running when the lights are on.
I dont know the Ph of water, as I do not have the meter yet.

Any ideas?




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Old 03-01-2006, 03:13 PM #2
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THOSE PICS SCREAM pH! do NOT buy a 'Rapitest' meter!! A test KIT can be had for $5CAN

pH with a side order of shitty fresh air exchange..an oscillating fan in the room, and just when the lights are on is certainly not enough... youll need to add intake and outtake for the room as well as leave that oscillating fan ON when the lights are OUT....


in nature, does the wind shut off at night time?

edit:

examine the roots, and perform surgery/X-plant if neccesary
..you may have some soil compaction going on from dumping water in hastily....
Soil compaction/suffocation of the roots can be avoided IN THE FUTURE, by using a watering can, and lightly watering the entirety of the soil's surface area completely and evenly, broken into 2 deliveries 20 minutes or so apart, fertigate first, then wash down with water to ensure even saturation of the root-zone, MAKING SURE NOT TO OVERWATER....compensate for the 'flush' by decreasing the volume of water u are using initially, do not over water or you will have the same problems you are seeing now....if yer still unsure on the process, just water in 1 delivery...

if not compaction or dead root mass turning the can anaerobic, it may be root rot of some nature, or just the pH thats causin the claw..they DO NOT look overferted..you are experiencing the beginings of lockout of at least a few secondary elements...pH is DEFINITELY off, get that kit:smile:5 Canadian Dollars, and will do 10 tests...best bet is buy 3 or 4 at a time or just splurge the $10-$100CAN. for a waterproof digital pH meter on ebay (best prices/selection on earth when talking meters)

sorry for the lengthy post
...............pretty high....
be well

Last edited by capitano; 03-01-2006 at 03:43 PM..
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Old 03-01-2006, 09:39 PM #3
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Thanks Capitano,

I will check the Ph tommorow with a test kit, but as far as venting is concerned it is adequate, I use 2500m3/h extraction fan 24h on, the oscilatig fan is just a bonus.
Thanks for your effort, I apprecciate it!
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Old 03-02-2006, 09:54 PM #4
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I agree 110% that you should get on top of your PH. You can have the bext food in the world but if your PH is off your plant wont be able to get to it. I hear a top dressing of bat guano and eathworm castings works great.

If you have the resourses you can get an enzyme product that will help eat up and 'clean' up any root problems you might have.

I think that when you get you PH down you'll see a huge change in the plants.

Remember, in soil organics you're feeding the soil then the soil feeds the plant.
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:15 PM #5
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Thumbs up BEAUTIFUL POST, LEGION --

ya nailed just about everythin my stoned-butt left out .......

h2O2 helps too -- never use straight, always dilute at LEAST 50/50.
for your purposes (if you did indeed find nasties in the root zone), a root surgery/trim + 50/50 h2o2/water heavy root mist or quickbath, then XPlant to larger can with a more aerated soil and moisten medium to field consistancy with a dilution of 1 part Hydrogen Peroxide 3% U.S.P. to 10 parts pure water--R/O,steam distilled,heck even tap will due, in a pinch and cant hurt..chlorine/flouride et al have little-to-no noticable effect on cannabis, IME.....your mileage may vary
good luck

hehehe LEGION: cap-o be wayyy too poor to be buyin enzyme productsnot to mention the fact that it's virtually impossible to find these things here in AK.......i'd have to mail-order or go to anchorage as there may be a hydro. shop there, not sure...if anybody knows of anywhere by us, please, by all means, let me know!!

Last edited by capitano; 03-02-2006 at 11:19 PM..
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:24 PM #6
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o, and yes, the hydrogen peroxide treatment is to be used INSTEAD of the enzymes....that is, if you do not have access to such products.... ENZYMES WOULD BE THE VERY BEST........but if not, it's a great technique to treat root-rot and/or breakdown decomposing root matter...
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Old 03-02-2006, 11:47 PM #7
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Yep, the first one screams of ph and the last one is yelling lockout - ph related nute lockout.

get the meter, flush with ph 6.3 water and then feed 1/2 strength. Next watering do another 1/2 strength, by then they should come around. Dont get alarmed, they may get worse before they recover, depending on how fast acting your ferts are... organics can be slower so it may take some time.

Also, are the second and last pictures the same plants?

Good luck~
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:07 PM #8
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Well, gues what, it is a Ph problem!!!
When I finally checked the Ph of the tap water it turned out that it has a Ph of 8 (yes, eight), so considering that, the plants are not doing too bad (the ones on the pictures are the worst cases).
So, I went and made myself a big barell of Ph 6,5 water with 1/4 strenght fertilizer and flushed them, but not before transplanting into bigger pots and checking the roots, which were all still perectly whit, so I did not mess with them.

M. steelers, yes, the pictures 2 and 3 are of the same plant.
Capitano, legion and steelers, thanks for your imput and help, I shall post some picts when I see improvement!
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:37 AM #9
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ph is a problem here but how much ferts are you using with how much water?

if your using soil, water has no impact on the final ph of the soil

after you water thats what ph it will be always

adjusting water ph will not do a thing and not fix the problem
its the soil ph you need to fix
which is why when you water you get your ph level it is with your water
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:02 PM #10
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Stich- intersting comment. Are you saying that if you have a low Ph value in soil
(say 6.0) and flush with H20 of 7.0 and continue to water with 7.0 the PH of the soil
will not change ? It's only the added nutes in the mix that will change the soil's ph ?

Not ot thread jack- for it does apply--
I'm in a situation that I think I have low soil PH. Rapidtest meter says 6.7 but
the vile/chemical test says 6.0. When I water the soil is so lose that much of the
water runs thru very quickly so when I read the runoff it's always that of the water
being used and does not show a low ph. Plants are in the largest containers
possible for the space, so I will not be transplanting. Will not have the opportunity
to mix in any lime. Lime also takes forever to react. How does one raise the soils PH quickly ? or lower ph quickly?

best regards
bilgeweed ?
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