[dansbuds]

problem solved!

I was dumpin it in the bucket, then I would stir... causing major fallout

this time I stirred as I added the powder slowly.. no muck, barely any flakes.... and

ppms went much higher... so the nutes were mostly stickin to my bucket..not helpin the girls

now I'm gonna cut back to 2 tbl per 5 gal

Hows things workin for ya now cyat ??? what ppm levels are ya getting for veg & flower ?
I'll go as high as 500 in veg & have been at 900 to 1100 in flower with no signs of burn or defs . I'm at week 6 (boost week for an 8 week strain ) & just filled the rez & am at 1250 ppms .will feed this for a week then plain water till done . hopefully its not to high of a ppm ... will find out i guess

My water is RO @ 000 ppms & 8.1 ph ..... mixing in the V & B & the PH drops to 5.5 or 5.6 ...... perfect for my coco

This my first run with it & I can really see a difference . I've got a sensi star @ 5 weeks & they were falling over from weight tonight

[cyat]

Originally Posted by dansbuds

Hows things workin for ya now cyat ??? what ppm levels are ya getting for veg & flower ?
I'll go as high as 500 in veg & have been at 900 to 1100 in flower with no signs of burn or defs . I'm at week 6 (boost week for an 8 week strain ) & just filled the rez & am at 1250 ppms .will feed this for a week then plain water till done . hopefully its not to high of a ppm ... will find out i guess

My water is RO @ 000 ppms & 8.1 ph ..... mixing in the V & B & the PH drops to 5.5 or 5.6 ...... perfect for my coco

This my first run with it & I can really see a difference . I've got a sensi star @ 5 weeks & they were falling over from weight tonight

a little too salty for me and a pain to mix
using heavy 16 for hydro
foxfarm for soil and coco buckets

[netprophet]

I'm using about 350 grams per 50 gallon rez per week of the tap formula. Not including my tap ppms it's about 1000ppm. I want to try the RO version as I have friends who are ruining everyone with insane dank running the RO. I have heard you can shave some time off your crop with RO too.

[PetFlora]

Originally Posted by TheBioMaster

You will love Veg+Bloom and it makes for a super clean final product as well.

Just a FYI- you should go by PPM and not by how many teaspoons.

At up to around 600PPM the formula will act as a veg formula, and up at around 800PPM - 1000PPM it acts as a bloom formula; and at 1000PPM or higher it acts as a bloom formula with PK Boosters.

I would suggest you keep those numbers as a guideline the first time around until you can "dial" in the dosages you need for your source water and environment.

Good luck, not that you will need it! Veg+Bloom takes out the guess work for sure and also the need for separate veg and bloom formulas as well as extra pk booster additives, there is even something to make the roots grow as well. Lots of thought and time when into the formula to make it a one part complete nutrient system.

There is this rampant fable going on trying to convince folks that people need a seperate formula for veg and bloom. These plants grow WAY to fast to need separate formulas. All you need is ONE complete formula that you adjust as needed. Veg+Bloom does all this for you just by adjusting the PPM value which makes it super easy and super accurate.

It really is a awesome concept/technique if you think about.........instead of adding extra or less nitrogen, calcium or other for example with costly additives, you just adjust the PPM value of Veg+Bloom. So for a veg formula, set your PPM somewhere from 200PPM to 600PPM, and then bump it up to between 600 to 800PPM for your bloom formula, and then at about week 3 of flower; bump up to 1000PPM - 1500PPM or higher which makes the formula act as a bloom formula with PK Boosters added.

It does not get any easier than that! You basically need only one round to dial in and find your optimal values. This also solves issues like running different plant types from the same feed formula (res). You will easily be able to find a happy "medium" between two different type plant species needing different levels of nutrients.

So like I mentioned, well thought out product!

I learned this over a year ago while reading a DIY nute thread, here I believe. Alas, I do not recall the poster's UN

" There are mainly two types that are based on former and newer scientific results.



1. about 180 N versus 220 P, is the more recommended formula for a hot, tropical or not fully climate controlled and rather warm indoor climate (high light heat output)
.

2. 220 N versus 180K (could vary but for the sake of simplicity, I'll just reverse it, as it is damn close) for a cooler climate or if you prefer, growing conditions clearly under 20-25° C.



The actual need of Phosphorus is even much lower as commonly believed and in fact under 30 ppm. The sole purpose of higher P in any commercial formula is for better pH buffer and to differentiate various products in terms of making the need for different growing stage formulas credible. Up to 50 ppm and exceptionally 60 can be used to better buffer pH.



Above that level (or let's say 80), Phosphorus and Calcium antagonism (the more P the more likely) is inevitable. I agree with the earlier statement (don't remember who said so), as it confirms what I have posted here earlier - that the for grow/bloom stage, a higher nutrient concentration for bloom stage should be good enough. Slightly higher K content and still the same low P ratio for blooming could be modified and do no harm, but most chromatic analyses I've seen aren't even justifying this.




mj plants are actually capable of being selective in their nutrient uptakes if you get in the ball park of their needs without being deficient or going grossly over board in nitrogen or calcium. They are not high maintenance like old high school prom queens. Many people say they are weeds. I would not go so far to say that but I will say they are very resilient."


I experienced first hand evidence when I mixed my DM Gold A & B; above 500 ppms the plants began to show sex while under 14/10 lighting.

As a small user, it is too costly to do my own mixing. Even though I have a 5L jug of DM ONE and a 1L Potash+, I have a sample V & B on its way. Will try it in my clone closet first. Later will do an AB v DM ONE Grow, but only cause I have it and many DM users will be curious. I use both HPA and my 21st Century Flood & Drain. In both I run < 400 for veg < 800 for flower; V & B should last me a loooooooooong time

[cyat]

Originally Posted by netprophet

I'm using about 350 grams per 50 gallon rez per week of the tap formula. Not including my tap ppms it's about 1000ppm. I want to try the RO version as I have friends who are ruining everyone with insane dank running the RO. I have heard you can shave some time off your crop with RO too.

View Image

shave time off your crop with ro, I call bullshit

Originally Posted by cyat

shave time off your crop with ro, I call bullshit

I have no actualy proof of it but I suspect it is the 3:1 Ca:Mg ratio that speeds things up, at least marginally. Using RO with this mix probably maintains media pH perfectly along with that ratio...I can see a little reduction in flower time.

I have seen it with foliar Ca also...but the pH thing has to be right to.

Or I could be completely off the rails...sometimes it is hard to tell.

edit...ooops, without RO you could screw up pH easily or the ratio itself depending on your water. This formula looks very good for RO imo...maybe a little too much K for my taste, but otherwise.

[kal el]

I asked for samples of each so I could run my tap against RO and see what happens.

[netprophet]

I'm thinking about running one my rezzies with the RO.

for now the tap/hard formula is working insane!

[PetFlora]

Got a generous sample yesterday (~ 6 oz), which should get far enough into a full clone cycle (if not an entire cycle) to have a pretty good handle on how it compares to DM Gold ONE.

[netprophet]

my girls love the sugar!