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Old 02-18-2012, 04:52 AM   #16
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Nice room. I've never run to this scale but I do use a cap ebb and grow system and I'm a Maxibloom only user for ease of use. And it's cheap as you said. It's as easy as it gets in my experience.

My process in flower is I fill a new res with 7g/gallon and just add back plain water for 5-7 days and then do a res change. I flood every 4 hours for 15 minutes lights on and 1 time lights off. I consistently pull almost 2lb/1k doing this. This is strain dependent of course.

I run 14 plants under a 2k and I veg them to about 12-15 inches or so. When I drop the plants into the buckets I only veg them for about 4-7 days before I flip to 12/12.

I always run my ph from 5.5 to 6.0.
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Old 02-18-2012, 04:58 AM   #17
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Nice room. I've never run to this scale but I do use a cap ebb and grow system and I'm a Maxibloom only user for ease of use. And it's cheap as you said. It's as easy as it gets in my experience.

My process in flower is I fill a new res with 7g/gallon and just add back plain water for 5-7 days and then do a res change. I flood every 4 hours for 15 minutes lights on and 1 time lights off. I consistently pull almost 2lb/1k doing this. This is strain dependent of course.

I run 14 plants under a 2k and I veg them to about 12-15 inches or so. When I drop the plants into the buckets I only veg them for about 4-7 days before I flip to 12/12.

I always run my ph from 5.5 to 6.0.
Appreciate the advice...

you say they are flowered at 12-15 inches but are only verged in the buckets for a week.. do you veg them in rockwool before? If so what size?..
that's my plan for next bloom.. I just took about 38 clones of pineapple..planning on running 30 under 4k next run
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:04 AM   #18
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EC 1.7
Temp 60 (colder than usual..assuming because the lights were out for 12 hours for the first time)
pH 6.5 .. a little high but I brought it down to 6.2 with some natural down..

EDIT: The drain pumps (in the controller bucket) failed and the buckets were filled for several hours, and they all appeared to be over watered. Any fix for this? They seem to be perking up now..
any suggestions??
Your Ph is too high for hydroponics, so the yellowing you're seeing may very well be due to that. 5.5-5.8 is supposedly the Hydro sweet spot, with a lot of people tending to start at 5.2 and letting the ph naturally drift to 6.0 before ph-ing it back down again.

6.2-6.8 is more of a soil ph range, so if you're running E&F I'd get it lower.

As far as the pump failing and the plants exhibiting overwatering symptoms, they were probably just experiencing a lack of dissolved oxygen. Assuming you've gotten the pump working again, your res temps are cool enough, and everything is functioning as it should, they'll probably be ok.
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:05 AM   #19
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I normally get roots in an EZ Clone then put them in 4x4 pots of hydroton on a small flood and drain table until they are 12-15 then transplant into the buckets. Then I veg for 5-7 days, then flip. It's been working real well but I'm now trying to do my cloning and veging in cups of coco to reduce the equipment and maintenance. I'm on my first run right now using the coco.

You said the drain pump failed to drain. What did you do to fix it? Sometimes if you fiddle with the pump between cycles it'll get an air bubble in the pump and cause it to not drain. Just a thought. Anytime I clean or move them I make sure I'm there on the next drain cycle to make sure they are working.
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:05 AM   #20
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:27 AM   #21
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Get a small water heater runs you 40 bucks, but you set it at 68, Water temps make a big difference in hydro. looking good
peace
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:32 AM   #22
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Get a small water heater runs you 40 bucks, but you set it at 68, Water temps make a big difference in hydro. looking good
peace
Agreed. In my case I have to use a chiller but I also set it to 68. They say higher temps aren't that problematic in ebb and flow but I like to prevent possible problems so I run it.

If you run a heater put it inside a glass jar inside the tank. I've never seen it happen but they can get hot and melt plastic sometimes. Or so I've heard.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:40 AM   #23
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Thanks for the kind words man!


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Get a small water heater runs you 40 bucks, but you set it at 68, Water temps make a big difference in hydro. looking good
peace

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Originally Posted by Herbophile View Post
Agreed. In my case I have to use a chiller but I also set it to 68. They say higher temps aren't that problematic in ebb and flow but I like to prevent possible problems so I run it.

If you run a heater put it inside a glass jar inside the tank. I've never seen it happen but they can get hot and melt plastic sometimes. Or so I've heard.
I actually have got some aquarium heaters, but I thought it was good to have cooler res temps. What would you say is too cold?
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:53 AM   #24
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I normally get roots in an EZ Clone then put them in 4x4 pots of hydroton on a small flood and drain table until they are 12-15 then transplant into the buckets. Then I veg for 5-7 days, then flip. It's been working real well but I'm now trying to do my cloning and veging in cups of coco to reduce the equipment and maintenance. I'm on my first run right now using the coco.

You said the drain pump failed to drain. What did you do to fix it? Sometimes if you fiddle with the pump between cycles it'll get an air bubble in the pump and cause it to not drain. Just a thought. Anytime I clean or move them I make sure I'm there on the next drain cycle to make sure they are working.
Well one was a bit clogged and did have an air bubble, however one seized and no longer works, so it was replaced. I'm going to upgrade to some better pumps next run.
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #25
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I'm not sure on too cold but I would guess anything over 60 would be fine. It's just a guess though and I'm sure the answer lies around here somewhere. I see now that you were posting air temps so your water temp may actually be warmer. I would start with checking it at it's lowest and highest just to see where you are at. No since in fixing problems that don't exist.

How old are the pumps? Even though the stock pumps are cheap they should still last some time. Are your controllers a long ways from the reservoir? If so this can sometimes cause the pumps to continuously start and stop causing them to burn out. What happens is the pump empties the controller and when it stops the water in the line drains back into the controller triggering the lower float switch again. The drain pump then kicks on again to empty. Rinse and repeat. This process can go on for a long time if not until the next fill cycle. There are solutions though so find out if that is your problem or not.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:11 PM   #26
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I like my nutrient res to be from 66-70 degrees in hydro...
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:49 PM   #27
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I'm not sure on too cold but I would guess anything over 60 would be fine. It's just a guess though and I'm sure the answer lies around here somewhere. I see now that you were posting air temps so your water temp may actually be warmer. I would start with checking it at it's lowest and highest just to see where you are at. No since in fixing problems that don't exist.

How old are the pumps? Even though the stock pumps are cheap they should still last some time. Are your controllers a long ways from the reservoir? If so this can sometimes cause the pumps to continuously start and stop causing them to burn out. What happens is the pump empties the controller and when it stops the water in the line drains back into the controller triggering the lower float switch again. The drain pump then kicks on again to empty. Rinse and repeat. This process can go on for a long time if not until the next fill cycle. There are solutions though so find out if that is your problem or not.

Hah yea man that's exactly what happens.. they pumps are replaced every grow they're only $20..

But thanks for that I will bring the controller bucket closer for sure
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:03 AM   #28
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There are a of couple things you can do besides moving the controller closer to the res. Doing that wasn't an option for me.

First you can shim up the front of the bucket and put the pump towards the back of the controller bucket. This works for the most part and I did this for awhile.

Secondly you can call cap and tell them your problem and they should send you out a one way check valve for free. That's the option I did for the long term solution. They mentioned they could add a delay to the bottom float but that requires sending the controller in and I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have solved the problem anyway.

I actually need to get myself a back-up check valve one of these days. It's a pretty simple design with a very light spring in it so I can see it going bad some day.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:08 PM   #29
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Hah yea man that's exactly what happens.. they pumps are replaced every grow they're only $20..

But thanks for that I will bring the controller bucket closer for sure
use better pumps I have built a lot of these systems and the little giant water wizard is where it's at. I've never managed to kill one which is saying a lot. Mag-drives aren't reliable.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:38 PM   #30
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hey bro, I use ebb and gro buckets too with hugo blocks raised up by net pots and just run veg+bloom nutes with nothing else. I was recommended this by my local shop and it works great. I had my return pump fail too and found the float valve was sticking in the brain bucket. here are the hugos I just pulled;


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