[p0opstlnksal0t]

also remember 3 part jacks and 2 part calnit can be measured in volume of equal amounts equaling their correct dosing ratio.... 3 teaspoons of Jacks Hydro and 3 teaspoons of Calnit would give you the correct 3 to 2 ratio. although i measure by EC now days its just so much easier...

my current run i have like 7 strains altogether. only one of them showed Mg. def. issues. the GG4 which just so happened to make up half of my room! haha

[Zeez]

Excellent advice!! Thanks guys. Searched, looking, read a bunch of pages, miles of stuff I don't care about at this point. I know there's plenty of good people and knowledge here. Glad you guys showed up.

TT, Awesome man! I usually do several strains in one grow. GG4 is one of them. I don't really know jack about nutes. I got started with a recipe, it worked good and I rolled with it. Looking back, a ton of $$ went out....

Start without epsom, how do you know that you need it? What's the deficiency? On the concentrates, do you need to keep them separate until mixing in the reservoir? Is there a max level ppm not to exceed? How about flushing mid bloom to get rid of build up in coco?

Again, thanks! Good people.

[Trich_Tyson]

Originally Posted by Zeez

Excellent advice!! Thanks guys. Searched, looking, read a bunch of pages, miles of stuff I don't care about at this point. I know there's plenty of good people and knowledge here. Glad you guys showed up.

TT, Awesome man! I usually do several strains in one grow. GG4 is one of them. I don't really know jack about nutes. I got started with a recipe, it worked good and I rolled with it. Looking back, a ton of $$ went out....

Start without epsom, how do you know that you need it? What's the deficiency? On the concentrates, do you need to keep them separate until mixing in the reservoir? Is there a max level ppm not to exceed? How about flushing mid bloom to get rid of build up in coco?

Again, thanks! Good people.

Very punny.. it's worth getting to know nutrients a little.

You'll get mag deficiency.. which can be a result of, of course mag deficiency, but also could be from lockout. Yellowing between veins is what it will end up as. Red stems can be indicative, as can upturned leaf serrations. GG4 leaves will twist when she wants mag.
Its one of the easiest deficiency to detect, and also misdiagnose.
Almost every time I get mag def. in my garden it is simply being locked out.

Concentrates are kept separate.

feed light, and you don't need to flush..
it works, but it won't work if your not on ur game.

if your coco dries, salts will crystallize, build, and nutrients will get locked out.
so your options are: keep it moist ALWAYS and/or allow for decent runoff.

I only "flush" my coco in veg because i don't allow for runoff.. so I feed about 1.1.. then a couple rounds of .6, which is usually when I'll add some fun stuff - microbes, enzymes, etc. Then a full feed, etc.
I can do that for about 2 weeks before i sense a need for some decent runoff.

coco is a funny media, but as DHF says, you gotta know the rules.

[p0opstlnksal0t]

i dont do concentrate myself so i dont know about mixing that up. i mix all my shit in a 300g tote about once a week and it gets fed @ 1.2ec now dtw in pure coco. ive lowered my epsom from 3-2-1 to about 3-2-.5 ratio and if i do see any def. in my gg4's now ill foliar spray epsom at about .4-.5ec this cured my first deficiency in my gg4 when i wasnt using any epsom in the feed.

[Zeez]

Good stuff. Very much appreciated.










.

[Miraculous Meds]

A couple more things good to mention are that cal nit absorbs moisture. Its good to seal it up. I use buckets with the gamma lids for easy access. But that could mess up your ratios if going by weight.


If mg is needed like tt explained, its likely a water frequency problem, or environmental problem not allowing uptake of mg. that's why people add mg, its a band aid for not having something else dialed in. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, cause you still haven't diagnosed the actual problem of why your not having enough mg when the mix is at the top of the industry for % mg. Sometimes it throws off your ratio of elements when adding mg, and it locks out other things, then your just chasing your tail on def and tox. Better to understand that your base nutrient has everything it needs, so tackle the problem from the water frequency or vpd, or cold root zone, or pests, or ph.


Also I think tt explained the flush scenario mid flower pretty well. Just keep an eye on r.o. ec. I try to follow djm's advice which is check the ro ec with a small amount of extra feed, and if its above 800 ppm or 1.6ec flush it below with your base feed of 1 to 1.2ec. try not to let the medium reach over 900ppm before switching to water for final leaching and harvest.


Funny how the plant can adapt. Ive got a friend that feeds up to 2500ppm, and does ok. But the bud quality of smoke is poor comparatively to lower feed that I use.


Don't overthink the extra stuff too much. Master the base nutrient, then become your own mad scientist with other tests of amendments. Djm hits 1.2 plus on the regular with this simple nutrient strategy. HR hits 2 plus with this base nutrient strategy. And im not talking just jacks here. take your pick, any cannabis based nute should work well. Jacks is just one of the most economical ways to get the base nutrients our plants need.

[caljim]

Another direction to come from.

I always had a hard time getting my ec stable enough to be sure I was adding the right amount of calnit to jacks hydro to achieve the desired ratio.

And my tap water makes a jacks stock solution cling to the side of the container with precipitation.

So, what I do....is fill a 5gal with tap.

add 100 grams Jacks hydro....then add(for veg) 82grams calnit.. To make a one part stock solution that gets diluted to my desired EC.

Flower gets a descending amount of calnit, starting at 80% (of jacks weight) and coming down to 65% by the start of the third week of flower.

Low and slow at 1.0 to 1.2 ec, heading to the low side as flower
progresses. Flinish with low ec feed... .2ec

By making a concentrated one part and measuring by %weight (with dry salts) I get the ratio I, and the plants, want. Every time.

Would work great with dosers also. Your ph up/down could be added to the mix to run on a single doser.

Different strokes for different folks.

[beta]

Originally Posted by caljim

So, what I do....is fill a 5gal with tap.

add 100 grams Jacks hydro....then add(for veg) 82grams calnit.. To make a one part stock solution that gets diluted to my desired EC.

Flower gets a descending amount of calnit, starting at 80% (of jacks weight) and coming down to 65% by the start of the third week of flower.

Low and slow at 1.0 to 1.2 ec, heading to the low side as flower
progresses. Flinish with low ec feed... .2ec

By making a concentrated one part and measuring by %weight (with dry salts) I get the ratio I, and the plants, want. Every time.

Would work great with dosers also. Your ph up/down could be added to the mix to run on a single doser.

Different strokes for different folks.

This is a HUGE mistake. Nutrients like Jacks are sold as two separate parts for a reason. If you combine them together at concentration they will react with each other and your nutrients will precipitate out of solution, making them unavailable to your plant.

Never ever ever combine concentrated nutrient solutions. Mix each into the rez at working strength before adding the next.

[Zeez]

Sorry to keep asking stupid questions, but it helps to do the homework and avoid starting off with a clusterfuck.

I get it about keeping it simple and the ongoing possibility of lockout. With that in mind, is it safer to start off with over (extra) watering schedule with coco or rock wool to prevent crystallization and dry out? And then dialing it down? With my current nutes, runoff is recirculated back to the reservoir and then fresh res started every other fill. Is it a bad idea to do this with 321? Currently it's an economy measure that allows for better coco saturation.

Also, Is anyone doing a regular flush protocol? Maybe substituting one or two feedings per week with a big flush of clean water? Or, watching the runoff ec to determine flush schedule?

Again thanks. I guess everyone started here and maybe others will benefit from these answers too.

[beta]

Originally Posted by Zeez

Sorry to keep asking stupid questions, but it helps to do the homework and avoid starting off with a clusterfuck.

I get it about keeping it simple and the ongoing possibility of lockout. With that in mind, is it safer to start off with over (extra) watering schedule with coco or rock wool to prevent crystallization and dry out? And then dialing it down? With my current nutes, runoff is recirculated back to the reservoir and then fresh res started every other fill. Is it a bad idea to do this with 321? Currently it's an economy measure that allows for better coco saturation.

Also, Is anyone doing a regular flush protocol? Maybe substituting one or two feedings per week with a big flush of clean water? Or, watching the runoff ec to determine flush schedule?

Again thanks. I guess everyone started here and maybe others will benefit from these answers too.

There's no reason to recirculate, even for economy. Set your watering up so you get 5-10% runoff (to drain) every watering and water 2-12 times per day depending on how big the plant is relative to its pot. You CANNOT over water coco, it naturally holds the correct oxygen to water ratio. You could literally leave your drip system on all day if it wasn't wasteful.

Never ever ever ever feed coco plain water until final flush, you will strip the cation bank and your plants won't have access to any calcium or magnesium until that bank is satisfied again.