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Old 02-02-2012, 06:14 PM   #1
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How to make shatter/amber glass

Ok i know how to make bho ,But how do you make it hard like shatter/amber glass ? . I seen a video for sale in high times that tells you but they want 250.00 bucks. they are nuts and should be ashamed.

I hoping someone here knows how its done.. I cant stand stickyness of bho, i rather have something more stable and easy to handle

Thanks

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Old 02-02-2012, 06:21 PM   #2
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:26 PM   #3
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what I do is bring my oil tray up to around 145F in a hot water bath. during this time I pop any large bubbles. after all large bubles are gone i start to smear my oil evenly flat every 10-15mins. smearing the oil flat helps any small butane bubbles to escape and allows your oil to harden. While every 10 mins i check the consistency of my oil by taking a small dab and touching it with my fingers. If the oil is gooey and unstable i continue to purge untill it turns into glass. If it shatters off my dabber when i touch it and has close to no bubbles left thats when i scrape it up.

or just make absolute amber you get glass everytime with little to no effort depending on material and zero butane bubbles

edit-This was my old method heres my new method, if you want glass use freshly dried material and thin film vacuum purge at constant heat of around 110F-130F till bubbles stop forming. I also do not use a hot water bath for the intitial purge after blasting because butane has such a low boiling point that it attracts moisture when surrounding temperatures are warm, this added moisture takes longer to purge and is counterproductive. The shatter/glass texture is based mostly on the material you started with, the cannabinoids in freshly dried cannabis are usually in there carboxylic acid form which creates very stable glassy oil compared to old partially decarboxylated material. The second biggest contributing factor is the purge, thin film purging is the best way to get oil to harden up, trying to get a inch or so thick slab of oil to harden up is going to be difficult.
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midwestHIGHS View Post
what I do is bring my oil tray up to around 145F in a hot water bath. during this time I pop any large bubbles. after all large bubles are gone i start to smear my oil evenly flat every 10-15mins. smearing the oil flat helps any small butane bubbles to escape and allows your oil to harden. While every 10 mins i check the consitancy of my oil by taking a small dab and touching it with my fingers. If the oil is gooey and unstable i continue to purge untill it turns into glass. If it shatters off my dabber when i touch it and has close to no bubbles left thats when i scrape it up.

or just make absolute amber you get glass everytime with little to no effort and zero butane bubbles.
absolute amber ? could you explain that ?
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:47 AM   #5
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to simplify it for you take your bho dissolve it in everclear, place bho everclear solution in the freezer at 0F for 24-36hours for waxes to coagulate then filter, now purge the ethanol from your absolute in a hot oil bath, hot water bath or under vacuum and constant heat.
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:44 AM   #6
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All I do is have about a half inch of water in a pan set on the stove on 4 and let me my pyrex plate sit right in the pan. Let sit till most of the bubbles are gone, small. Scrape, let harden and BOOM dabs for all!
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:01 AM   #7
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Sorry to highjack this thread... Has anyone used 200 proof ethanol before? How are the processes different from that of 190 proof standard ethanol?
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:35 AM   #8
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200 proof Ethanol is hard to get and won't result in any improvement to the process, or make any real difference one way or the other.

It is not possible to get 100% pure (200 proof) ethyl alcohol through distillation only . To remove the final 4-5% requires running it through a molecular sieve, usually a specific type of activated carbon.

The remaining traces of water get removed by this secondary process.

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Old 02-12-2012, 11:30 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by SpinLover1 View Post
Sorry to highjack this thread... Has anyone used 200 proof ethanol before? How are the processes different from that of 190 proof standard ethanol?
What RB said. They may also use a drying agent like benzene, so 190 proof is preferable.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:25 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Rickys bong View Post
200 proof Ethanol is hard to get and won't result in any improvement to the process, or make any real difference one way or the other.

It is not possible to get 100% pure (200 proof) ethyl alcohol through distillation only . To remove the final 4-5% requires running it through a molecular sieve, usually a specific type of activated carbon.

The remaining traces of water get removed by this secondary process.

RB
And the moment you open a pure bottle of ethanol in the atmosphere it starts absorbing water... pure ethanol is hygroscopic.
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Old 02-13-2012, 02:17 AM   #11
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Very interesting. So, the 200 proof, I think 99.7% ethanol that is available for industry, is adulterated. Therefore its better to go with 190 proof, sugar cane ethanol, which I have already sourced?

Oh, on another note, I discovered a local source for hexane, which is used in the processing of soy bean oil. I'm guessing this is a good product?

To produce soybean oil, the soybeans are cracked, adjusted for moisture content, heated to between 140°F and 190°F, rolled into flakes, and solvent-extracted with hexane. The oil is then refined, blended for different applications, and sometimes hydrogenated. Soybean oils, both liquid and partially hydrogenated, are exported abroad, sold as "vegetable oil," or end up in a wide variety of processed foods.
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:55 AM   #12
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put extract in a glass container, one big enough that it is quite a bit bigger than the amount of oil. Put in hot water bath, and whip with a nail or something similar. Whip it till you get tired of whipping it, and then keep doing it for 5 more minutes. Spread material out with a metal tool like a non holed spatula, metal of course, and as thin as you can get. Really press, smoothing out the extract till it is paper thin. Leave sit in a warm room that has negative air pressure. You will be left with grade A earwax that you can take out with your hands if you want, and under that will be grade A++++ amber flake
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:09 AM   #13
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:18 AM   #14
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Sorry it's a bit old know... but: I do the whole hot bath purge.. spreading it over as thin as possible, turning the oil over itself once in a while and respreading... but never whipping (not till after it's shatter,potentially forming bonds between butane and the actual oil molecules.. plus the air) a trick to all this common knowledge.. cutting thin little lines over the whole surface with the blade of a razor.. different directions... again everyone 15 minutes or so after you resmear the thin coating, secondly... preferably have your oil a liquid above 66 degrees celcius but below 90..for at least an hour.. i like to bring it down to least 52 celcius for another hour or 2...(lower temps will stop subtle breaking down of the actually final yields flavour, less of everything will evap. yet it's good to have at least the wax a liquid for the gas to escape..) keep smearing and cutting.. as long as it's a sticky sticky substance and purged enough to not run to run really easily..periodically, lift your tray past vertical, almost upside, shake and tap, preferably fan it off.. I like to do this before each time I do a re-smear..after this long long purge, leave for at least 24 hours as thin as possible. also. Before extraction heat your herbs to 104 celcius for 15 to 20 minutes.. it breaks down smell and taste, but actually increases potency/yield. (decarboxylation).. it also removes the water.. no moisture means a dry hard shatter/ glass. carefully scrape up.. theres vac purges as well.
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:31 AM   #15
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When mentioned above to do it in a room with negative air pressure does it matter how much negative pressure or just some negative pressure?
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