[midwestHIGHS]

Rulatone-
The azeotrope of 95% ethanol and 5% water evaporate as one. And to remove the last 5% of water drying agents like benzene are used and will leave trace amounts of the drying agent. 190 proof ethanol is the best for winterizing and making absolutes IMO and IME, I would not use anything else. The milky white solution on top your ethanol bho solution after it was filtered of waxes, lipids and fats is from additional moisture. This happens usually when you spill a little water in your oil tray during the hot water purge, blow on it with your breath or purge on a very humid rainy day.

[RulaTone]

Originally Posted by midwestHIGHS

Rulatone-
The azeotrope of 95% ethanol and 5% water evaporate as one. And to remove the last 5% of water drying agents like benzene are used and will leave trace amounts of the drying agent. 190 proof ethanol is the best for winterizing and making absolutes IMO and IME, I would not use anything else. The milky white solution on top your ethanol bho solution after it was filtered of waxes, lipids and fats is from additional moisture. This happens usually when you spill a little water in your oil tray during the hot water purge, blow on it with your breath or purge on a very humid rainy day.

Maybe additional moisture but when i have used 99% solvents i didnt get that.
I have tried 190 proof eth, pure acetone, and 99% isopropilic for winterize, differences were minimal, acetone was suggested here not long ago. it is a bit more aromatic but evaporates at lower temps. and is good in leaving the lipids away, plus it costs far less than 190 proof wich is taxed where we are.

[RulaTone]

Originally Posted by midwestHIGHS

Rulatone-
The azeotrope of 95% ethanol and 5% water evaporate as one.

I think when ethanol forms a solution with resin that won't happen no more as the water separates from the mix.
may it be?

[noreason]

Originally Posted by midwestHIGHS

You can hold on to alot of flavor in absolute with a few tricks, for one you don't need to fully purge the intitial butane extraction and all boiling points are lowered under vacuum, alcohols boiling point is lowered to about room temp under -29.9hg so there is no need to get your temps up to alcohols boiling point of 173F. Allowing you to purge at the same temp you would your bho.

I did not purge well initial butane extraction obviously, to avoid applying heat, but let me post a question:

you're saying that with vacuum less heat is required. Right.
But if all boiling points are reduced, this mean also the terpenes and other substances boiling points are reduced too.
So if this make sense, what's the utility to use vacuum instead of heat? Doesn't the result will be the same?

I can just use logic and my senses to know what's better, but I'm still uneducated, so maybe these are question you guys already ask for yourself, and I'm glad to know your point of view.

May I also ask the way you dry your fullmelt? I've been following mattrizes and selecta nikka t's technique for minute, they suggest once your puck has dried for about 24 hours and your able to pick it up and it's not sopping wet, he then uses a microplane to break it up into a fine almost indivdual resin head form, then lay it in a very thin spread out layer on parchment and allow it to dry in cool dry room with low humidity to avoid melting of the resin heads while trying to remove moisture. I don't know if he freezes it, but matt said he even gets his hands cold to help from the fullmelt from turning into sticky mess when trying to microplane it. Drying like this allows the resins to stay in there natural color alot longer and doesn't cause it to darken quickly because of access moisture degrading them drying in large pieces. Just a few tips I learned from following rizes technique mostly and thought I'd pass it on.
Check out there youtube channels, matts got some crazy melt shots these days, selecta does to, he recently posted a video of dabbing rosin!

Never heard about it. Will check it

About the drying....If you don't press the resin, it will dry with no problem. The hashish structure is composed by glands and impurity and it's porous. It does not seems, but it is. Being porous, air can flow inside and dry everything.
With a just extracted hashish, still full of water, you can put it on a towel and see in 2 seconds how much water it loses. It becomes dry and it can be observed from the top, just because of its porous structure, so water can flow to the paper.

About the darkening of resin....it happens only outside. When I break a pice of hashish it is still blonde inside, even after months. Oxydation can't perform in the inside.

Haven't made rosin my self in about two years, man that guy who first introduced that around here had some insane melt pictures. I might have to make some soon, have you ever tried making some with your hash Noreason?

Rosin remember me something...but I have to check it out

[noreason]

Originally Posted by RulaTone

I think waxex are smoother due to the limited volatile loss result of whipping and heating.
Is a bit weaker in that scratched-throat feeling meaning its more pleasent and for some folks this means "better".
In my experience waxes are never as good as the oil they were derived from.

It could be. Working it to make it like wax I also noticed a lot of flavors come my way. If I can smell flavors this mean something is evaporating...

Gotta spend some time face to face soon bro

[midwestHIGHS]

Yes your right, all boiling points are lowered under vacuum and that should include terpenes as well. For some reason though it seems you loose more terpenes just trying to use heat to fully purge raw bho rather than using deep vacuum and constant heat. Because of cannabis oil's surface tension purging at temps around 110-130F makes it hard to remove the residual solvent, to keep the oil constantly releasing solvent without the aid of a vacuum temps need to be highered usually, where as under vacuum/heat as long as resins viscousty is lowered it will release solvent and break the surface tension much easier with the aid of negative pressure. Once you start using deep vacuum and constant heat to purge your oils you will never go back, the rapid release of solvent you get is night and day compared to heat purging.

[midwestHIGHS]

Yes rosin, the general idea of using heat and pressure to rupture trichome heads to release there oils on to surface while keeping trichome shells and contaminate as a whole. I would just take quality bubble and smear it on hot pyrex don't remeber the temps and It would leave an oily film with the remaining contaminate stuck to what ever I was using to smear the hash. Then scrape up the oily film and enjoy, yield is low usually, but the finished product can be dabbed with a melt comparable to solvent extracts.

[noreason]

Yesterday I had the last Colibrì 250ml can, so I cut some exodus cheese flowers (at late flowering) and did an extraction with the thermos. Flowers were not so many because of the few butane remained...however after the butane evaporation, I add 25ml of etOH to dissolve everything, 12 hours freezing and then filtering on a 31µ inox screen.

The final result is a solid amber, that shatters if pressed with the dabber. I did a couple hits and wow, that's the smoother smoke ever, while the high is still cosmic! Just the overall flavors can't beat at now the raw bho, that is harder in the throat and the first part of lungs and make me cough sometimes.

I used the same exodus cheese clones to make different kind of oil, and everyone has the same, very nice sweet lemony aroma, but with slight difference. At now, the best for aroma is raw bho but it makes to cough.
The best for being so smooth is the amber obtained from fresh flowers and winterized for 12 hours.

This make me think that during the purging of etOH, a part of terpenes and/or other molecules evaporates. This part is enough to feel the difference between them.
Considering ex.cheese extract has a lemony aroma, I would assume there could be a good amount (still very small) of d-limonene in the resin. This molecule has a boiling point of 177°C/350°F but it would evaporate very easily even at very low temp, with an high ΔT value from the evaporating start and boiling point.

So next step is probably winterizing with a lower boiling point solvent like acetone as suggested me. Gotta find some!


Doh, I was forgetting to post pictures...

Here what I filtered out with winterization

[noreason]

.....and this is what I finally get



After an hot bath it melts into this (damn hair!)








This one is going to be my desktop image for a while

[midwestHIGHS]

Yes you do loose some terpenes with the additional processing, rendering it not as flavorful as the orginal raw bho, but removing the waxes, lipids and fats are whats important for making a solvent extract that's suitable for everyday consumption. Acetone is not a polar solvent I would recommend, I like ethanol and ethanol only for this purpose. Acetone is also less polar than ethanol so it won't winterize as well as ethanol.

You can hold onto more flavor purging under vacuum like I mentioned before, because you don't even need heat untill your down to the residual ethanol, the majority of ethanol can be removed without heat. Once the liquid ethanol has purged under vacuum and your left with mostly resin and residual ethanol, now you can use heat of around 110-130F lower the resins visosity and deep vacuum to get that last bit of residual ethanol out. Also I don't know if you do this or not, but don't warm the ethanol to speed up dissolving of the raw bho, this seems to release more terpenes then room temp dissolving.

The second pic is my favorite, very nice! Dr john hammond would be proud!