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#11
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Crap...I had a bunch of detailed info written out but it got lost when I went to post. Here's most the info minus things like references-
Broad Mites are sensitive to heat. I saw multiple references to submerging plants in ~110f water for 15-25 mins I saw one mention of treating plants with 30 mins of "110f heat @ 100% humidity" Storm is right. Avid & Forbid are the modern day miticides that are most readily available and have anywhere near reasonable residual times( assuming you're in veg). I agree with Max_Well that sulfur could be a good addition to IPM. I saw many mentions of using wettable sulfur ( ie Safer brand Fungicide) for mite control. There are other chemicals out there labeled for Broad Mite but most of them are only available in LARGE quantities or have unacceptable residuals ( ie Talstar with is 3 mth residual) A warm, dry environment slows the Broad mite down
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Do Good Works! Last edited by Grow Tech; 12-31-2011 at 06:29 PM.. 2 members found this post helpful. |
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#12
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sorry, i am a little late catching on to this...
i havent had any issues w my plants but if this is something that is invisible maybe i am missing it. I will have to break out the USB microscope. Assuming that someone has broad mites; is this the agreed upon treatment (per storm shadow) Avid and Forbid with Indicate 5 I always burn sulfur in early flower as well (but i am still veggin) I am thinking Avid, then 3 days later Forbid. Or are you guys mixing them together then using that solution twice? Thanks folks Nothing like scaring a grower with the possibility of an invisible mite
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Prop 215 as Prop 215 intended |
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#13
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From my experience with these very hard to see little punks is that they don't leave any signs of true plant damage. The very small size means they can hide next the veins of a leaf and in the tips of new shoots making it very difficult to get your choice of pesticide in those areas even with a wetting agent. There always seem to be a few that survive, and it only takes one to F you over. I also noticed one time they were still on my fingers after doing an inspection. So be care not to cross contaminate, especially from your shirt or forearms rubbing on the plants.
edit 8-28-13: Now using 2ml Avid, 1ml Eagle 20, DM Saturator when I transplant to my flower containers. Rooted clone > rockwool 3x3 veg out 10" DUNK in solution > transplant to flower container, more veg then flower = no bugs or pm so far. I try to do the treatment early in hopes it wears off out of the plants. I do low power long term veg T-5 4' 4 bulbs @ 18-6 5-6 wks.
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#14
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Here's the best way to deal with these punks...Everything in R.O/Distilled Water...
Forbid 3ml a gallon mixed with Indicate 5....3 days later....Avid 2.5ml per gallon mixed with Indicate 5.... 3 days later Spinosad 60ml per Gallon mixed with INdicate 5.... 2 days later Triple Action Neem Oil mix per label DO NOT Use with any wetting agent....2 days later Azatrol or Azamax 30ml per gallon mixed with Indicate 5..I like Neemix 4.5 way better then Azamax or Azatrol... Azasol would be awsome too.... Anyways...this seems kind of overkill right? FUck no... these bastards are crazy and do die on contact from Miticides...they take a week or two to fully die off...thats why we add the Spinosad and Triple Action Neem Oil...both are contact killers to those fuckers...and the azadirachtin just puts the icing on the cake .... Spend the money now and avoid the damage then truely cause...they are selective in what plants they toast ....and sometimes they will let it ride out till the end...like I said evil... Use all the above products and you will be clean from any Bastard from Mite family. Good Luck and dont be scared to pull out the chems on these dudes..they will not die any other way
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Hall Of Fame 19 members found this post helpful. |
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#15
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Quote:
Happy New YearI have predator Mites coming for the girls i have that are now ~4 weeks into flower. For my Veg plants I'm going with Forbid 4F and then Bifenthrin which is also labeled for Broad mite and is very inexpensive. It can be obtained online ( but not instore) through HomeDepot. Bifenthrin is not a systemic but has a pretty substancial residual. I would not personally use it on anything but small plants that would be putting out alot of new growth before flowering. If I had Avid sitting around I'd probably use that instead of Bifenthrin...but I dont & $ is tight now. @ Storm Shadow- I've got some Dutch Master "Gold Range Saturator". The Label says 2oz/ quart so...8oz per /gal which seems like alot. How much of that per gallon would you suggest as a sub for Indicate5?
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Do Good Works! 1 members found this post helpful. |
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#16
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Indicate 5 bro ...a small amount goes a long way... i would say 1 tsp per 1-2 gallons....
Turns the color pink/reddish and your good to go...takes only a few seconds for it to change the color..then its ready to use... remember to always whip up a fresh batch and discard whatever left overs you might have....
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Hall Of Fame 0 members found this post helpful. |
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#17
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#18
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https://www.tampaagriculturalproducts...ts/indicate-5/
https://rosemania.com/shopsite_sc/sto...product40.html
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Hall Of Fame 1 members found this post helpful. |
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#19
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The dilution rate for the Dutch Master is the worst. I couldn't believe it when i read it. After i finished a bottle i switched back to a drop or two of Dawn kitchen soap. I am going to try to get the Indicate 5. Storm. That does seem like over kill but i understand that the war on mites is one that needs to be won at any cost. Unfortunately that cost is going to be high when you are not in the clone or 'teen' stage. Fuck. I have yet to see ANY signs of bugs. Maybe i didn't have them last run. What the for sure sign? My yield wasn't too down from the norm
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Prop 215 as Prop 215 intended |
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#20
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Quote:
You need to spend some time checking the newest growth of your plants with a ~30x hand scope. The 60-100x scope I got from Radio Shack works too but I find the 30x is much better for pest scouting.
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Do Good Works! 1 members found this post helpful. |
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