[Midnight]

Just keep telling yourself that if it makes you feel better.

[Dave Coulier]

Originally Posted by Midnight

Just keep telling yourself that if it makes you feel better.

Midnight, you've made your own points, and theres no need to continue. I can say for myself, that treatment has turned plants that looked god awful into beautiful looking plants. My treatment methods have worked so far. Im sorry you couldn't achieve results that were satisfactory to you, but your not helping this thread at this point.

Everyone here would like to get back on topic, and thats how to treat your plants and share any results each of us may have. Whether it be positive or negative.

[the gnome]

ok, went to town locally and picked up some raid fumigator bombs---> 12.6% pemethrin
strong stuff.
going to bomb every room every 4-5 days for a few weeks.

also I picked something up i hope will work,
its cheap and its on a very low order of toxicity
kills mites and their eggs... Volck oil spray
$6 for a pint bottle and makes quite a bit from that.
when i 1st started growing and had to deal with some mites an old hand recommended it.
its been used for years in the nursing/orchard industry.
we'll see what it does to the broad
avid is on the way.

I read an article from the florida state agriculture division on broads and they said many insecticidal soaps and oils will work on broads with a hi degree of success and low degree of toxicity.
that made me think of Volck oil spray
so thats whats instore for dem broads
till the avid gets here.

i'll let everyone know how the volck oil spray pans out.

and dsome good news for a change!,
the plants i soaked down with spinosad 3 days ago are starting to perk up and actually look good





midnite,
if your solution to the broads is tossing your plants...
then have it ma man... no one is knocking you for it.
but you **keep on** bashing others that choose to make a stand and do battle with these demons adds nothing productive
just let it go.

""The only cure is to toss everything, start over. You'll see""
nurseries don't do that, they treat the problem.

the state of florida and florida state university-FSU agricultural sites disagree with you....
obviously you couldn't deal with the problem,
telling everyone else they are failing seems to be your way of dealing with your own failure.... pretty sad

[Dorky]

Originally Posted by Shan Diego

I'm a little irritated at the boys at SD Hydro. There is a pepper plant just inside their front door that is clearly afflicted with Broad Mites. I've pointed it out to their employees on 3 separate occasions, yet the plant remains. Customers are no doubt brushing up against it and taking these buggars home with them. Be careful if you walk through their front doors... When I was telling the guy at the register, the two guys in line behind me spoke up and told me they shared the exact symptoms and had been wondering about their problems for a while...please help spread the word, tell every grower you know what signs to look for!

which one. I think I need to breed some of these lil fuckers.

[KRD]

100 percent mite free now 2 doses of avid all gone. I have used floramite,azatrol,soaps,stinky fish oil,predators nothing works like avid, its like eagle 20 is to pm.

[Grow Tech]

Originally Posted by KRD

100 percent mite free now 2 doses of avid all gone. I have used floramite,azatrol,soaps,stinky fish oil,predators nothing works like avid, its like eagle 20 is to pm.

mmmm Stinky Fish Oil
I'm still looking for Avid close to me ( North County SD)
Anyone with a source please PM me

[daheadies]

Are broad mites and russet mites the same??

[Dave Coulier]

Originally Posted by Grow Tech

mmmm Stinky Fish Oil
I'm still looking for Avid close to me ( North County SD)
Anyone with a source please PM me

Ebay is where I would look. You'll find the best deals there.

[max_well]

I've been researching the toxicity and concerns with using Avid, and have some confusion. It seems that Avid is only approved for use in ornamentals, however Agrimek, which has the same active compound (Abamectin, which is the same as Avermectin), is approved on a huge range of vegetables up to 1 week before harvest.
Some of this confusion discussed here:
https://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/l...539866.html?10
Anyone have insight here? Seems like there is a real staunch opposition to using this into flower in our growing community, and paranoia about it's lingering presence in our medicine-- never heard too many people give pause before a non-organic burrito about the chance of the tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, etc having been treated up to a week before harvest...
They are dropping this from planes into our orange juice!
https://www.syngentacropprotection.co....aspx?id=93696
I'm certainly not suggesting this is a good thing!, just wondering about the pick-and-choosiness of when to be concerned about the health risks associated with this , as I've never hesitated to eat a good looking orange.
I've also read that Abamectin, when in the thin film of sprayed application on a plant leaf, has half life of 4-6 hours ..
( https://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles...ectin-ext.html )
and in case your curious about No Pest Strips:
https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=596&tid=111

[the gnome]

Originally Posted by max_well

and in case your curious about No Pest Strips:
https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=596&tid=111

hey max
I use NPS a ALOT, they are my favs out of everything I use to battle pests in the garden.
I can't say enough about how easy and effective they are to use. if it just killed eggs too it would be darn near hard to beat.
I posted info from that very site max a few years ago in the stickied NPS thread in the infirmary or in one of my own threads about using them.
it is very safe to use NPS's but I recieved some pretty unreasonable opposition to its use from some of the anti chem pest control gang,
in fact the term "unreasonable" is sugar coating it about 10x over hehe.

here's a snippet from that site
What happens to dichlorvos when it enters the environment?

• Dichlorvos enters the environment during its manufacture and use, from landfills, and from accidental spills during transport and leaks from storage containers.
• It evaporates easily into the air, where it is broken down into less harmful chemicals.
• It will dissolve in water, where microorganisms can break it down.
• It takes about 24–36 hours for half of the chemical to be broken down in water.
• Dichlorvos does not appear to accumulate in plants, fish, or animals.