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Old 02-05-2012, 06:37 PM #121
Shan Diego
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I mixed a gallon. I completely saturated my plants, probably used about 3 times as much as I needed but I did it outside so runoff was not a concern. Here's some pics of the damage on my mother plant as well as my avocados outside. I had been using my runoff water on them, and they were subsequently infested as well. Notice how the sunny side looks great and the shaded side looks afflicted...these broad mites really do hate light!






Old 02-05-2012, 06:46 PM #122
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I started seeing some of the tell-tale pistil browning in my flower room which is at day ~20 into 12/12.. thought I was in the clear after repeat treatments of Avid / Forbid in veg! but now ~7 weeks later, having seen the extreme damage these have had in my buddy's room, I did a heavy spray down with the Safers liquid sulfur product at the recommended 4 oz. / gallon... this definitely caused some serious pistil shriveling / dryness to the developing flowers, more than I realized would happen-- probably should have done some test plants before coating the whole room, but I was hoping to be proactive while before a population explosion of mites. I'm hopeful that my flowers will rebound from this. I've got some beneficial mites on order, per the advice and help that GrowTech gained from them (thanks bro)..
One thing of note.. From all the scoping I've done, I haven't seen the speckled eggs that are characteristic of Broad Mites, as pictured by Storm Shadow.. therefore I believe the mites I have could be of the Cyclamen variety, which have smooth eggs and probably a slightly different palette, but are otherwise very similar to broad mites from all the research I've done-- suggested treatments seem to be pretty much the same.


I found this info on broad mites and the use of predatory mites (A. Swirskii type) from a icmag member in Austria named 'floweryfield' in a thread called 'CROP PROTECTION'. Seems to have some first hand experience:


Broad mite

There are some stories about the origin of this animal. Some people claim that the CIA deliberately bred this animal to eridacate the hemp plant. Of course, this allegation is absolute nonsense. Correctly the broad mite is an exotic pest that was brought to Europe by exotic plants. In our region the mite is predominatly a problem for indoor cultivation, but in recent years it has also increasingly been a problem for outdoor crops during hot and humid summers (e.g.:strawberry, gerbera: in this culture you can find a particular aggressive type of the broad mite which shows resistances to all conventional acaracides).

Broad mites cannot be seen with the naked eye. They are only 1/100 inches long. Eggs have bumps or protrusions. They don`t produce webbing like spider mites. They hide in the young shoot tips, why it is difficult to detect them even microscopic. Due to that fact an infestation is usually noticed when susceptible greenhouse-grown crop display damage symptoms. The symptoms include leaf and fruit distortions, shortening of internodes, blistering, shriveling and curling of leaves, and leaf discoloration. The plant also loses vitality , stops growing and the rooting oft he clones doesn`t work anymore. Reproduction does not occur below 13°C nor above 34 degrees. Temperatures of about 25°C and humid conditions are most favorable.

For hemp cultivation any infestation of broad mites should already be detected in the vegetative phase, as such a infestation after switching to a 12/12 lighting phase cannot be fought. In that case growers have no alternative but to dispose of the contaminated plants and clean the grow room thoroughly.
During the vegetation period the broad mite is easily opposable. When an acute infestation is detected, growers shall spray the acaricide agents like mentioned above. Additionally the temperature and humidity shall be reduced. A week after the last application the use of predator mites can begin.


Following predator mites should be used for broad mite infestation:


· A. Swirskii
https://www.allesoverswirskii.nl/
It is a predatory mite, which occurs in North Africa-Israel (mostly in marine environment), and therefore it is used to higher temperatures and humidity. The A. swirskii delivered in bottles is a highly aggressive animal, which searches for pests at a high speed. These qualities make these predatory mite to the appropriate hunter of broad mites, which eradicates reliably the rest of the broad mites that survived spraying. I recommend the dissemination of A. swirskii approximately every 2 weeks for 2 months, then the animal should be eradicated.
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:49 PM #123
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Your funny dude...sorry you couldnt keep up with the routine to eliminate these fuckers... I dont have them anymore...havent for quite sometime...and they were everywhere....just because your work ethic and budget didnt allow you to get the job done...doesnt mean we''ll follow in your footsteps... they are easy as fuck to kill with all the chemicals rotated just a few times....

And therein lies the problem, you got product covered with chemicals. Who the hell are you pawning that crap off to? Please let me know so I can warn them!
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:00 PM #124
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Storm and Gnome, I applied the Spinosad 5 days before the Forbid. I was still waiting on the forbid at the time.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:08 PM #125
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Originally Posted by Midnight View Post
And therein lies the problem, you got product covered with chemicals. Who the hell are you pawning that crap off to? Please let me know so I can warn them!
Chemicals with the appropriate residual ( if any ) in veg
Predators in flower...they can be dealt with

and BTW, I remember one of your pics that now seems to have dissappeared where the was a No Pest Strip visible amongst a pile of other stuff.

If you have anything productive to add please do but at this point you're just coming off like a douche bag troll
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:30 PM #126
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Storm and Gnome, I applied the Spinosad 5 days before the Forbid. I was still waiting on the forbid at the time.

thanks dave... did the spino slow em down any?
and what was the brand name of spino, and percentage in the bottle
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:06 PM #127
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thanks dave... did the spino slow em down any?
and what was the brand name of spino, and percentage in the bottle
I just looked at the bottle and its .5% Active Ingredient Spinosyn A & D. Its actually Green Light Lawn & Garden Spray w/ Spinosad, but same amount of Active Ingredient as Monterey Spinosad product. I saw plant improvement within 6 days of applying the Spinosad.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:08 PM #128
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Chemicals with the appropriate residual ( if any ) in veg
Predators in flower...they can be dealt with

and BTW, I remember one of your pics that now seems to have dissappeared where the was a No Pest Strip visible amongst a pile of other stuff.

If you have anything productive to add please do but at this point you're just coming off like a douche bag troll
If you read all of my posts in this thread you would see that I nuked the living shit out of my plants. It was a seed run and i was not going to smoke it.

I nuked the living fuck out of my plants and those bastards kept coming. Only thing that worked was throwing it all out and then nuking the room itself for 3 weeks. Fuck those mites, if you're not tossing the stuff and then nuking your room then you are wasting your time. You'll see. Meanwhile, I am bug and pesticide free and on the road again.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:35 PM #129
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I'm a little irritated at the boys at SD Hydro. There is a pepper plant just inside their front door that is clearly afflicted with Broad Mites. I've pointed it out to their employees on 3 separate occasions, yet the plant remains. Customers are no doubt brushing up against it and taking these buggars home with them. Be careful if you walk through their front doors... When I was telling the guy at the register, the two guys in line behind me spoke up and told me they shared the exact symptoms and had been wondering about their problems for a while...please help spread the word, tell every grower you know what signs to look for!



Old 02-05-2012, 10:36 PM #130
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If you read all of my posts in this thread
Dude...thats the thing. I have read all your posts & you basically haven't added any additional info along the way. If it's your opinion that the only way to deal with Broad Mites is to basically not ( by throwing away your plants) thats cool....but to fucking continue to pop you head up and say the same thing over & over & to "LOL" at those of us that are choosing not to throw our plants away is just straight dick-ish.

I have adquate skills with a hand scope. Years ago I made a living using one to do pest scouting for commercial nurseries. When I say I can not find any on the plants in my flower room that have only had predators as their Rx...I'm not fucking lying. There is no pesticide residual on those plants & I didnt have to throw them away. They are currently 1 week from harvest & I will have something worth smoking.

I'm only kicking myself because I forgot the importance of using my scope regularly. The fact that I now personally choose to use chems to treat these in veg is my approach. We know your approach...you've said it repeatedly.
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