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Old 11-20-2011, 08:34 PM #21
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interesting twist on the bio controls format, sort of reverse engineered. But I wonder if we shouldn't start threads for each of these controls, since there are always going to be "how to beat PM" threads.
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:55 PM #22
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What Jaykush said.....is what I have noticed too....Organic and chem gardening methods share the marketplace where both methods have many products for sale.......it's been pretty hard for me to NOT notice that the less I buy and the more I make myself, the less I deal with problems that need a "solution"-via some product off the shelf.....
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:28 PM #23
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So far no PM returning after the first application of Actinovate.

I did make some subtle changes to the environment upon first sign of PM and at the time of spraying with Actinovate. I increased the temperature to prevent any change in temp. from light cycle to dark cycle over 15 degrees... temps. in the dark period will not be allowed to go below 65 degrees. I also halted all air movement in the 12 hr dark period except bursts of exhaust every two hrs. for 5 mins. If this change had an effect on the PM's survival or it was the Actinovate that stopped it I am not sure.
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:45 PM #24
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Capn cheeze you halted the air movement? from my experiences PM gets much worse when the air is stagnant, or are you trying to halt the spread of the spores>??

Any problems i've ever had with PM have been there because of not enough spacing and/or air movement......Actinovate what's the update?......I've had success ridding PM with staggering sprays of milk/water..and h202/water.....is actinovate that stuff I read about that is some sort of bacteria?
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:54 PM #25
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Yeah I've found quite the reverse over the years...no air movement in the dark. No spores spores spread,and therefor they don't attack fresh tissue/affect new areas. PM get's it's party on in the dark. To prevent stagnate air I exhaust for those 5 min. every two hrs. PM spores out,grows,and spreads best when it doesn't have the powerful lights hitting them.

When the lights/fans come back on any spores that may have spread are killed by the lights.
I have had plants sitting under HID lighting that only got PM on the side that a fan blows from...more transpiration,more water vapor,party time for PM.

In the dark cycle keep it dry and warm,no air movement IME....keep in mind I am in the PM capital of the world I think and there are many types of PM. I have no idea what types I battle..but I win.

Yes,Actinovate is a bacteria.
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:00 PM #26
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is actinovate that stuff I read about that is some sort of bacteria?
At the beginning of the thread
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Old 11-21-2011, 07:03 PM #27
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https://www.plantmanagementnetwork.or...eview/2003/hpm
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:30 PM #28
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o I see....very cool......it's the same concept I was going for using milk to combat PM....it built an immunity to my treatment, wonder if the same will happen with actinovate.....milk helps strengthen the immune system and stops pm in it's tracks with a bacterial process...........I noticed that the Hazes I had in the room at the time were resistant and everything else was covered........I'm interested to know how it works in the long term......did you all just start using it?
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:49 PM #29
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Met a guy in Seattle this last weekend who was using something called SM90 that he claimed was organic and he didn't have any PM on his plants in scrog, and they were dense and tightly packed.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:18 PM #30
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Nutrifield SM-90

Ingredients:

1% Coriander Oil
94% Sulphonated Canola Oil solution
5% Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine -

Function/use(s): Fragrance Ingredient; pH Adjuster; Surfactant - Emulsifying Agent

Triethanolamine is a strongly alkaline substance used as surfactant and pH adjusting chemical.

Sulfonated Oils

Mineral or vegetable oil treated with Sulfuric Acid to make a water-soluble (emulsifiable) form; used as lubricants, emulsifiers, defoamers, and softeners.
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