Wiring approval for my Intermatic timer please - Grow Room Safety - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

ExoSteve · 10-15-2011, 10:05 PM

Hi!!

Just wired my timer to plug on my 1000w ballast and I would like to have an approval before I plug that beast!

1- Is that well wired?
2-Why wire already installed in the timer are gauge 16?
3-Why there is NO wire already installed in the timer on the 3rd screw? (the right one)

Thank you guys!!!!

ExoSteve · 10-15-2011, 10:06 PM

Don't know why the picture are on this side...in my computer they are ok...

Save them on your disk and rotate them...will be easier to look at them.

Stress_test · 10-15-2011, 10:13 PM

In the picture it appears that there is a white jumper wire between lug A and lug 1.
If it IS a jumper, it is going between the hot supply and neutral, which is a direct short.

It may be an illusion in the picture, but check it to be sure it is NOT a jumper.

ExoSteve · 10-15-2011, 10:15 PM

Its 2 differents wire. They were already installed in the timer when I bought it. The 3rd scre doesn't have this wire.

Stress_test · 10-15-2011, 10:20 PM

It looks right then.

I usually suggest plugging in just a normal light bulb or a fan to test the timer. It's a lot cheaper to replace than a ballast.

ExoSteve · 10-15-2011, 10:31 PM

I setted up the timer at 17h45 (time here)...installed the ON clip at 6pm....and the OFF clip at 6am!! Pluggued the wire in the outlet...pluggued the T5 in the timer...and it light on!! Its suposed to be OFF ...

I don't understand my mistake!!?!!??!!

Thank you for your very appreciated help!!

rives · 10-15-2011, 10:34 PM

I agree with Stress_test - it looks good.

They use 16 gauge wire inside the box because the runs to the clock motor are so short that they can handle higher amperage than what they normally be rated for, and the clock motor is probably an "impedance protected" motor". That means that the impedance (resistance) of the motor windings is high enough that even if the motor seizes and goes locked rotor, it won't create a problem.

The #3 terminal doesn't have any internal wiring attached because that is the load side of the switch, and there is nothing internal to the timer that requires that function - the other two connections drive the clock motor.

rives · 10-15-2011, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ExoSteve

I setted up the timer at 17h45 (time here)...installed the ON clip at 6pm....and the OFF clip at 6am!! Pluggued the wire in the outlet...pluggued the T5 in the timer...and it light on!! Its suposed to be OFF ...

I don't understand my mistake!!?!!??!!

Thank you for your very appreciated help!!

Do a full circuit of the dial (spin it 360 degrees) - the contact was probably closed when you installed the trippers and it hasn't had a chance to actuate yet.

Stress_test · 10-15-2011, 10:36 PM

No big deal...
Use the manual over ride switch and turn the light off.
Then wait and see that it turns back on when it's suppose to.

ExoSteve · 10-15-2011, 10:36 PM

Thank you guys for your very fast answer!!

y mistake can be the fact that I setted the ON/OFF clamp to ON?

10-15-2011, 10:05 PM	#1
ExoSteve Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 245	Wiring approval for my Intermatic timer please Hi!! Just wired my timer to plug on my 1000w ballast and I would like to have an approval before I plug that beast! 1- Is that well wired? 2-Why wire already installed in the timer are gauge 16? 3-Why there is NO wire already installed in the timer on the 3rd screw? (the right one) Thank you guys!!!!
	Quote

10-15-2011, 10:20 PM	#5
Stress_test I'm always here when I'm not someplace else Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 2,527	It looks right then. I usually suggest plugging in just a normal light bulb or a fan to test the timer. It's a lot cheaper to replace than a ballast. __________________ "I would. I'd really like to meet an honest man. But I'd have to lie to him cause I smoke pot." ______________________________ ______ First Outdoor Guerrilla Grow 2011 Understanding Ph. Ingenious $4 Walmart Cloner. SOG's DIY micro-cloning factory tutorial. (Very well illustrated and explained). Handy site for the Gardener (A wealth of information for any gardener). Sometimes when I'm really medicated, I can really crack me up.
	Quote 1 members found this post helpful.

10-15-2011, 10:34 PM	#7
rives Inveterate Tinkerer Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 6,090	I agree with Stress_test - it looks good. They use 16 gauge wire inside the box because the runs to the clock motor are so short that they can handle higher amperage than what they normally be rated for, and the clock motor is probably an "impedance protected" motor". That means that the impedance (resistance) of the motor windings is high enough that even if the motor seizes and goes locked rotor, it won't create a problem. The #3 terminal doesn't have any internal wiring attached because that is the load side of the switch, and there is nothing internal to the timer that requires that function - the other two connections drive the clock motor. __________________ Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH) - Overview & Information My DIY Hybrid LED/PL-L Luminaire The VolksLED - DIY LEDs for the Masses -Nutrient Calculator, Suggested Element Levels
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10-15-2011, 10:36 PM	#9
Stress_test I'm always here when I'm not someplace else Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 2,527	No big deal... Use the manual over ride switch and turn the light off. Then wait and see that it turns back on when it's suppose to. __________________ "I would. I'd really like to meet an honest man. But I'd have to lie to him cause I smoke pot." ______________________________ ______ First Outdoor Guerrilla Grow 2011 Understanding Ph. Ingenious $4 Walmart Cloner. SOG's DIY micro-cloning factory tutorial. (Very well illustrated and explained). Handy site for the Gardener (A wealth of information for any gardener). Sometimes when I'm really medicated, I can really crack me up.
	Quote

10-15-2011, 10:06 PM	#2
ExoSteve Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 245	Don't know why the picture are on this side...in my computer they are ok... Save them on your disk and rotate them...will be easier to look at them.
	Quote

10-15-2011, 10:13 PM	#3
Stress_test I'm always here when I'm not someplace else Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 2,527	In the picture it appears that there is a white jumper wire between *lug A* and *lug 1*. If it IS a jumper, it is going between the hot supply and neutral, which is a direct short. It may be an illusion in the picture, but check it to be sure it is NOT a jumper. __________________ "I would. I'd really like to meet an honest man. But I'd have to lie to him cause I smoke pot." ______________________________ ______ First Outdoor Guerrilla Grow 2011 Understanding Ph. Ingenious $4 Walmart Cloner. SOG's DIY micro-cloning factory tutorial. (Very well illustrated and explained). Handy site for the Gardener (A wealth of information for any gardener). Sometimes when I'm really medicated, I can really crack me up.
	Quote

10-15-2011, 10:15 PM	#4
ExoSteve Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 245	Its 2 differents wire. They were already installed in the timer when I bought it. The 3rd scre doesn't have this wire.
	Quote

10-15-2011, 10:31 PM	#6
ExoSteve Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 245	I setted up the timer at 17h45 (time here)...installed the ON clip at 6pm....and the OFF clip at 6am!! Pluggued the wire in the outlet...pluggued the T5 in the timer...and it light on!! Its suposed to be OFF ... I don't understand my mistake!!?!!??!! Thank you for your very appreciated help!!
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