[mtbazz]

Dumb question time:

Was just vacuuming my house, vacuum was plugged into the same circuit that my 1 kw HPS is on (which was running while I was vacuuming). I kept tripping the circuit breaker.

I had other stuff on at the same time all running on the same breaker (didnt realize until tonight all of these were on the same circuit), LED tv, 27" imac, various incandesencet and fluorescent lights.

The vacuum (dyson DC25) is rated at 220 watts. With the tv, imac, and everything else on I must have been pushing well over 1400 watts.

Now while it was kind of a fluke that all of these things were on at the same time, would it be worthwhile to either have someone come in to switch that circuit out to 20 amps, or maybe even put my grow room on its own circuit so it is isolated from everything else (this would require a complete teardown for me).

By the way, when i went to reset the break it was pretty freaking warm.

It is very likely that the wiringon the circuit your taking about is only 14 gauge wire so it would not be safe to just install a 20 amp breaker to replace the 15 amp breaker. Any nore it is typical for all 120 volt circuits to be wired with 14 gauge wire and utilizing a 15 amp breaker. the exception is that most kitchen circuits at the area of the kitchen counter are 20 amp circuits wired with 12gauge (heavier wire). Most bathroon over the counter wall recepticles are also 20 amp circuits. What u is safe and chepaer then wiring a full newcircuit is to run a 15 amp 12 gauge heavy duty extension cord from another circuit to be used by your TV, computer etc. They also sell heavy duty 20 amp extension cords.

Originally Posted by mtbazz

Dumb question time:

Was just vacuuming my house, vacuum was plugged into the same circuit that my 1 kw HPS is on (which was running while I was vacuuming). I kept tripping the circuit breaker.

I had other stuff on at the same time all running on the same breaker (didnt realize until tonight all of these were on the same circuit), LED tv, 27" imac, various incandesencet and fluorescent lights.

The vacuum (dyson DC25) is rated at 220 watts. With the tv, imac, and everything else on I must have been pushing well over 1400 watts.

Now while it was kind of a fluke that all of these things were on at the same time, would it be worthwhile to either have someone come in to switch that circuit out to 20 amps, or maybe even put my grow room on its own circuit so it is isolated from everything else (this would require a complete teardown for me).

By the way, when i went to reset the break it was pretty freaking warm.

[BudGood]

It sure wouldn't hurt to get a dedicated circuit for the grow, so your household items can run on the regular wiring. But yeah, DON'T switch out the breaker, you'll be asking for even more of a fire hazard. Breakers are sized to the wire, meaning a 15A breaker=14ga wire. 20A requires 12ga, trying to put a 20A breaker on a 14ga wire will overheat the wire until the insulation eventually gives out, and a fire happens. BIG no-no.



EDIT: Extension cords aren't meant to be used long term, but if you do, try to route it so it isn't just sitting on the floor or where subject to physical damage.

[mtbazz]

Originally Posted by BudGood

It sure wouldn't hurt to get a dedicated circuit for the grow, so your household items can run on the regular wiring. But yeah, DON'T switch out the breaker, you'll be asking for even more of a fire hazard. Breakers are sized to the wire, meaning a 15A breaker=14ga wire. 20A requires 12ga, trying to put a 20A breaker on a 14ga wire will overheat the wire until the insulation eventually gives out, and a fire happens. BIG no-no.

yeah, im thinking having that room on a dedicated circuit is my best bet..sucks I didnt think of that before i set my tent up.

[BudGood]

At least it's a tent setup, those are much easier to break down. You could literally move it into another room while the electrician does his thing, then move it back when he's done.

Originally Posted by BudGood

It sure wouldn't hurt to get a dedicated circuit for the grow, so your household items can run on the regular wiring. But yeah, DON'T switch out the breaker, you'll be asking for even more of a fire hazard. Breakers are sized to the wire, meaning a 15A breaker=14ga wire. 20A requires 12ga, trying to put a 20A breaker on a 14ga wire will overheat the wire until the insulation eventually gives out, and a fire happens. BIG no-no.



EDIT: Extension cords aren't meant to be used long term, but if you do, try to route it so it isn't just sitting on the floor or where subject to physical damage.

Actually good shop cords are insulated better then standard Romex wiring used in nearly all house construction. Yes there are obvious different grades of extension cords. If a 12/3 shop extension cord is not at least 1/2" to 5/8" in diameter it is too light weight for long term use.

[BudGood]

Yes, they are, BUT, it is because they're going to basically be exposed to much more chance of damage than standard romex. Standard romex is usually protected by the structure, so long as the installer uses his brains and follows code. Plus, there are other considerations, such as length of run from power source to where it's being utilized. You can only get a cord so long, and if you need to go long distances, you need to chain larger sized cords, which can get prohibitively expensive in comparison to running the needed romex, even if upsizing the wire for a longer run to avoid voltage drop. Not to mention making a heat point at each connection... There are numerous reasons why extension cords are meant for TEMPORARY use, and why running a permanent circuit is a much better idea.

Oh, and using the size of the jacketing is not a good way to judge if it's a good cord, only if it'll be able to handle more abuse. I'd pay more attention to the wire size, that's far more important IME.

I guess all those years of being an electrician does come in handy, lol.

[huligun]

Motors have a high level of starting current (Reactive Load Current). Imagine pushing a wheel barrel. It takes a lot of energy to pick it up and get it moving. Once it gets going it sort of coast and uses less. They say that the average electrical motor uses 6 times it's rated current for a few seconds and then levels off to it's rated current.

Another thing is that when you are using a motor anything that impedes the motor turning will add current. Like if your vacuum starts to labor through a clog or the brushes get caught with some hair. Anything that resist the motor will drive the current higher.

All the other stuff you have is resistive loads. Your motors have a reactive load.

As the other guys say it sure wouldn't hurt to have a dedicated circuit for the grow. You don't want something or someone blowing that circuit and not getting it back on in time.

[Crusader Rabbit]

Originally Posted by mtbazz

I kept tripping the circuit breaker.



By the way, when i went to reset the break it was pretty freaking warm.

Overheating trips the breakers. They need time to cool down.

Does your dwelling have a number of circuits? If so, you should trip the breakers one at a time, and make a list of which outlets match with which breakers. You might be able to arrange your appliances so that it takes some of the load off the breaker, or breakers running your grow.

Originally Posted by BudGood

Yes, they are, BUT, it is because they're going to basically be exposed to much more chance of damage than standard romex. Standard romex is usually protected by the structure, so long as the installer uses his brains and follows code. Plus, there are other considerations, such as length of run from power source to where it's being utilized. You can only get a cord so long, and if you need to go long distances, you need to chain larger sized cords, which can get prohibitively expensive in comparison to running the needed romex, even if upsizing the wire for a longer run to avoid voltage drop. Not to mention making a heat point at each connection... There are numerous reasons why extension cords are meant for TEMPORARY use, and why running a permanent circuit is a much better idea.

Oh, and using the size of the jacketing is not a good way to judge if it's a good cord, only if it'll be able to handle more abuse. I'd pay more attention to the wire size, that's far more important IME.

I guess all those years of being an electrician does come in handy, lol.

I would expect the guy is smart enough to ask a salesman at a electrical supply house or building supply store just what industrial/construction grade wire cord cable he should buy to run a distance needed. I did not want to start dropping nomenclature on the guy. It is quiet simple to buy wire cable cord such as SOOW wire cable cord that can stand up to being driven over in a garage or walked on in a home. Wire cable cord is used at construction sites for runs of many feet every day through out the country and they are used to supply power to saws, table saws, hammer drills and compressors etc that easily draw 16 to 20 amp loads and more. They are driven over by heavy construction equipment and trucks frequently without damage. They would be more then adequate to run from one room to another or around the perimeter of a room to supply power to a TV, computer or vacuum cleaner or leave them on the old circuit and just run the light off of the wire cord cable. This could very likely cost much less then a licensed electrician would charge to run another circuit especially if for such cases as a present load center already having all spaces filled with breakers whereby another panel would have to be added etc. Would another circuit wired with 10 gauge or 12 gauge Romex be better or safer. That is debatable.

Would a grower be wise to call in an electrician to add a new circuit to supply a grow room. Usually not unless he is willing to dismantle the grow room first. In all honesty I would rather have a large gauge SOOW wire cord cable running around the perimeter of a room then have a new circuit of conduit encased wire running around living area walls all the way from the load center box or Romex run the through a basements overhead floor joists or ceiling joints in an attic and then snaked through a wall where a new outlet box is scabbed in. Who knows he might even have a basement with finished walls and ceiling. Is he suppose to pay the cost of a sheet rock man and a painter plus an electrician just to supply power to a 1000 watt light. You talk of running long distances. Do you think the guy has to run a hundred foot of cord? What is best for him and his conditions can not really be determined with the little bit of information he provided. Basically you say black and I say white. To many unknowns to tell what would be a best choice. I have seen wire cord cables that have been in use without problems for decades. Temporary???

Or perhaps Crusader Rabbit's suggestion might just be the best plan.