[Canniwhatsis]

HA!!!!

FINALLY got some pics of the new baby under the screen!

Pic 1: Top shot before training.
Pic 2: The whole plant after it's last training session.
Pic 3: I just really like this shot of one of the Blueberry nodes starting to bud.
Pic 4: The Vanniluna Grafted top

Super cool technique, will definitely have to try it sometime.

Hello all, i had a skim through the thread so i apologise if i am repeating anything.
If you want to graft numerous different tops onto one base, preferably one with good roots, you can use this technique of graft on citrus and grapes, and only requires a very sharp nife and some grafting tape or something similar (it is like sticky tape but without any sticky), to cover the graft except where the 'shoot' sticks out.




I imagine it would work on these plants, but you have to wait until there is some semi hard wood underneath. Somewhere in the middle of a side branch for the bud, and then sort of push the bud into the 'cut' on the root stock somewhere low down where it is still green on the outside but hardish on the inside. If you use only soft green cuttings i think it is less likely to work.
Once you have attatched the different types of strains onto the root stock, wait until they start growing and then you can cut the top off of the rootstock just above the top grafted bud. I should have mentioned, but you have to leave the rootstock alive until the grafts 'take' properly or it won't work. You should have healthy roots and multiple strains all popping out of the rootstock stem.
Hope this helps.

[lil~greensprout]

Holy Schmitt's, thought I'd stop in , I musta' tripped and fell
head long into the deep end of the pool...... this is deEeEep.

I predict some reading in my future, very impressive !

[Canniwhatsis]

Originally Posted by googolsack

Hello all, i had a skim through the thread so i apologise if i am repeating anything.
If you want to graft numerous different tops onto one base, preferably one with good roots, you can use this technique of graft on citrus and grapes, and only requires a very sharp nife and some grafting tape or something similar (it is like sticky tape but without any sticky), to cover the graft except where the 'shoot' sticks out.




I imagine it would work on these plants, but you have to wait until there is some semi hard wood underneath. Somewhere in the middle of a side branch for the bud, and then sort of push the bud into the 'cut' on the root stock somewhere low down where it is still green on the outside but hardish on the inside. If you use only soft green cuttings i think it is less likely to work.
Once you have attatched the different types of strains onto the root stock, wait until they start growing and then you can cut the top off of the rootstock just above the top grafted bud. I should have mentioned, but you have to leave the rootstock alive until the grafts 'take' properly or it won't work. You should have healthy roots and multiple strains all popping out of the rootstock stem.
Hope this helps.

I use a standard "Cleft" grating method, but this doesn't seem too far fetched from what I'm doing, and perhaps another method I'll try in the future for attempting to join larger scions to my mother plant.

At the moment, I've had 0% success with trying to graft to the more woody sections of the plant, regardless of the nature of the scion..... ALL of my success has been grafting fresh green soft scions into fresh green soft flesh of the host.

Im really interested ATM in how long it would take for the "False" grafting method to heal and allow me to dispatch the root structure of the scion, since I've found that some strains seem to be harder to graft to (as host plants) than others.


Bear in mind I can't have many plants, so any such experiments will likely take several years to complete (My current grafto mum is 10 months in the work, and the plant I'm tracking thru flower is 2 months of work, before flowering )

Anyone that I've inspired to try can feel free to post their results in this thread!

[Canniwhatsis]

Originally Posted by lil~greensprout

Holy Schmitt's, thought I'd stop in , I musta' tripped and fell
head long into the deep end of the pool...... this is deEeEep.

I predict some reading in my future, very impressive !

Welcome to the fray Sprout!


Not all that impressive from this end,

Like I've said in the first post, lots of way's to fail!..... but this community has given me many many more ways to fail that I've not dreamed up yet! and most of them seem like they'll WORK!!!!!

At least with citrus trees,.....

I haven't tried this on marijuana plants, but i have on orange trees and grape vines and both have nearly 100% success.
I am only guessing that it will work, but when i mean a hardened part i mean semi-hardened. It should be still healthy green on the outside, not too hard, as when the stem becomes grey and gnarly, smooth green outside with semi hardened inside (too hard to super crop, but nice to cut into).
And the bud stock similar.
You will need a really sharp knife, and have to be careful. You want to carve/ slice, not tear with the grain.
The pieces should fit nice and tight, all the way around if you can.

[Canniwhatsis]

Yeah,.... that's the balance I'm looking for in my grafts,....

Most of those stems are a whopping 1/8-3/16" in diameter, (3.1-4.7 MM) tho I've had better success with slightly smaller/geener/softer attempts,...

Seems that grafting Cannabis is harder than grafting fruits or grapes,.... but as my limited experience has shown, it's certainly NOT impossible!





P.S. I"m NOT a botanist, but I play one on the internet!

[noreason]

Originally Posted by Canniwhatsis

Seems that grafting Cannabis is harder than grafting fruits or grapes,.... but as my limited experience has shown, it's certainly NOT impossible!

I think cannabis is more difficult to graft because its fast metabolism and its structure.
If you graft a tree,you will see the stem is not hollow, this make things easier to do and more contact space.
Fast metabolism means the graft should keep in a safe environment (high RH - correct T°) much more then a tree,with its lignified stem that would be slower to take in but with more possibilities to survive.

Yes, you want to try to use stems that aren't hollow.