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#11
Old 06-29-2011, 01:42 PM
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Subscribed!! I still eat apples off a tree my Great Great Grampa grafted. Two flavors left..
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#12
Old 06-29-2011, 02:05 PM
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Commercially nurseries graft 3 in 1, 4 in 1 , and as many as 6 in 1 fruit trees, cherries, apples etc. When a scion is grafted to the mother plant, the genetics of the scion will be the same as the plant it was cut from. As for fruit trees that are dwarf or semi dwarf it's the root stock that keeps the tree size small. Root stocks are also used for disease resistance.
So what ever strain that you graft to a mother will produce like strains when you use cuttings from that scion.

So Canna, do you use any type of grafting wax? What do you seal the graft with while its adhering to the mother. Wrap the graft?. Do you sterilize, what do you use? How long has it taken for the grafts to take.
Love the thread it will encourage more to experiment with creative farming. Watching this one.
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#13
Old 06-29-2011, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mooseknuckle View Post
its on you tube,if you want to see it on video,good post op
Yep, this is the vid that inspired me to actually give this a shot. https://theweedreport.com/videos/view...709.html?m=424
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#14
Old 06-29-2011, 02:18 PM
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Very interesting! Have yet to see this done with weed, you got my attention for sure! I wonder if some of the 'vigor' in certain plants could be linked to a beefier root system, i.e take an interesting strain with low vigor and graft it to a beastly root system, creating a 'better' plant? I dont know, but I'll be watching!
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#15
Old 06-29-2011, 02:39 PM
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never tried that, but I have done over 1000 grafts of Apples ,peaches,pears,necterines..... and I've budded many citrus. Looks like you've done a good job, However when doing a tree graft....once you've gotten to the point you're at then we use a product called grafting tar and we spread the tar completly covering the join to create an airtight seal from the parent to the new graft. Then taking a string or rubberband wrap it around the branch from the parent up and passed the graft point up and into the stem of the graft.

Thiese are critical steps to ensure the graft stay viable, it helps so the join doesn't dry out and helps from comming apart. this banndage stays on the graft for a year or so until the growth of the limb cracks and breaks the bandage off.

I can post pictures if you need?


Good Luck.
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#16
Old 06-29-2011, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Headbandf1 View Post
never tried that, but I have done over 1000 grafts of Apples ,peaches,pears,necterines..... and I've budded many citrus. Looks like you've done a good job, However when doing a tree graft....once you've gotten to the point you're at then we use a product called grafting tar and we spread the tar completly covering the join to create an airtight seal from the parent to the new graft. Then taking a string or rubberband wrap it around the branch from the parent up and passed the graft point up and into the stem of the graft.

Thiese are critical steps to ensure the graft stay viable, it helps so the join doesn't dry out and helps from comming apart. this banndage stays on the graft for a year or so until the growth of the limb cracks and breaks the bandage off.

I can post pictures if you need?


Good Luck.

please do
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#17
Old 06-30-2011, 03:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Headbandf1 View Post
never tried that, but I have done over 1000 grafts of Apples ,peaches,pears,necterines..... and I've budded many citrus. Looks like you've done a good job, However when doing a tree graft....once you've gotten to the point you're at then we use a product called grafting tar and we spread the tar completly covering the join to create an airtight seal from the parent to the new graft. Then taking a string or rubberband wrap it around the branch from the parent up and passed the graft point up and into the stem of the graft.

Thiese are critical steps to ensure the graft stay viable, it helps so the join doesn't dry out and helps from comming apart. this banndage stays on the graft for a year or so until the growth of the limb cracks and breaks the bandage off.

I can post pictures if you need?


Good Luck.
I've tried Grafting Wax, with no success. Given the short life cycle of MMJ the grafts are pretty small (at least the ones I've been working with) And the wax won't hold the wound closed, I've been using tape, electrical sticks too much and is almost impossible to remove once the wound has healed, masking tape works but seems to not seal it up well enough during the critical first few day's. My favorite so far is surgical tape, if I could find my "Blenderm" tape I'd be stoked that stuff would be perfect.

The evolution of my Grafto Mum.

First graft completed, AK-47 node added to a BlueBerry root structure

Another angle showing just the grafted node.

After a trimming I decided that this would be the branch to host a Durban Poison scion.

Splitting the host stem.

Triming the large fans from the Scion to reduce transpiration while the wound heals

Shaving the sides of the Scion to allow circulation between host and Scion

wound tapped closed

placing plastic bag over fresh Scion to act as a humidity dome

Couple weeks later the graft is growing without the bag and the tape is ready to come off.

Fast forward, and this is what the Durban mother node looks like,

Here's the AK47 node

And the host plant Blueberry tops

Finally a shot of the whole plant



She's since been up potted to a larger pot, and DJ-short Vanniluna has been added, I've trained some nodes out to accept new Scions as I find strains I can't bear to part with. I'll get new pictures of her sooner or later
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#18
Old 06-30-2011, 03:27 AM
TurboFish
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THe best way to make a graft set would be to foliar feed with a light dose of seakelp extract 4 days prior to taking a graft because the plant growth hormones in the seakelp when foliar fed to plant will help it graft by building growth hormones up in the tissue. then dip the graft into cloning gel and then applying it into the "v cut" thus sealing the graft together a little. Then use a twist tie and wrap it around the grafted section to secure the graft betterThen use the white "surgical tape" you can get at cvs or walgreens or walmart and cut a 2 inch pice off of the tape. Then roll the tape around the joint to brace it. Now MAKE SURE you use a gallon freezer bag and put it over the graft so that the graft has high humidity, you can lightly mist the inside of the bag for aded humidity before putting it on. After 7-9 days it shoudl be fully healed. support the bag and dont let it pull and rest on the graft as to stress the joined part.
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#19
Old 06-30-2011, 03:32 AM
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I've tried the rooting gel thing too,.... but it makes a mess that the tape won't stick to and wound up in failure on all 3 attempts I made.

Yes, Freezer bag that's supported is a must for a humidity dome, I forgot to mention that so thanks for reminding me!

I also tried putting the plant in a shaded corner of the room to let the wound heal this last time, and it seemed to make a big difference! (Similar to using lower light over clones)
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#20
Old 06-30-2011, 03:34 AM
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I'm gonna go graft some weed onto my tomatoes.

I'll take pics and post them later.

And if you're about to post some shit saying it won't work.... STOP, I don't care, I'm gonna do it.

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