[Student_grower]

Hello everybody!
I have my Jack Herrer clones under 120 watt of grow-fluros. They are know on day 42 of flowering. Trouble started from the middle leaves, know spreading to top, and a bit on bottom. Leaves become yellow, and, what is specific - the veins seem to get yellow earlier then the leaf tissue itself. after the yellowing brown spots appear, during that leaf fades, the edges are turning down, than the leaf dies. Also I noticed tips of the top leaves become rounded like a hook and yellowish. I use Etisso for flowering plants fertilizer, N-P-K 3.8 - 7.6 - 7.5 also adding additional microelements fert. Watering - about 0,5-1 l every 3-4 days (not too strict), fertilizers added around once a week - I gave them a smaller dose last time, but the problem persisted... I never checked pH, but heard this etisso can be too acid, does the symptoms look like pH too low? I have got two plants, and the trouble is severe on the smaller one (it's about 2 times smallet then the other), but a day or two ago it started a little bit on the bigger plant.
Guys, your help will be greatly appreciated, I can't sleep well when thinking of the poor plant.
Here are the pictures

How the leaf looks

And the sad result is

[00420]

check ph....... thats the start............ with out a ph level theres really no way
ph being off makes so many other def that u cant pin point one

terrific post 00420

Originally Posted by 00420

ph being off makes so many other def that u cant pin point one

thats for damn sure.

jack is fairly mite RESISTANT , IME, but check anyway.

do a search if your unsure .

also, is it me, or does the plant look SLIGHTLY moisture stressed and possibly too low an rH?


as 00420 said get on your pH, that may solve your problem, if not, proper pH ensures easy diagnosis of defieciencies and in turn, easy cures for such..you only have a few weeks left id not worry too much about this, dont overdiagnose....and get fresh air exchanges up to help the plant recooperate.

you are actually showing at least two different def. so i would say ph is off. the main deficiency is phosphorous which is leading to the crunchy appearance. do a good flush with ph udjusted water and give a good dose of ferts in the last gallon of water and it should stop ant further damage. if let go too long, your plant will die pretty quick. its happened to me!

that plant is not going to die.

[[db]]

Maybe ph problem, but really they look pretty healthy for 42 day of flo.
Add some ashes to raise ph: it also have P and K elements

[Student_grower]

CapitanJack well, it is't dying know, but the problem develops quite fast, that is what makes me worry.
If you, ppl, think it's pH I'm sure it is moved on the acid side... I've got dolomite lime (or do I call right in English... it's told to make soil more alkaline and consists of CaCO3 and MgCO3) and ash of the cereals, wich is alkaline too and contains P and K itself. Which one, in your opinion is better?
TIA
PS One more question - how to apply them? I found here only recomendations about premixing dolomite line to soil, but not a word about how to add it by watering, same thing about ash.

[MynameStitch]

and yes you need to check your ph ph is a problem as well

the ph maybe causing a slight lockout of nitrogen
it may not look like it but the first picture notice the spotty yellow patches but thats nothing to worry about right now untill it gets worse your giving them nitrogen now
mine got this towards the end of flwoering when it was near the time of harvest but that was the way i grew mine

how long is the flowering peorid for jack herr?

but you need to test the ph
what soil mixture are you using?
what is that on the bottom of the plants?

[Student_grower]

Leaves are green,
And buds are blue
They make me high
And so do you
Happy Valentines Day to all you IC people!

MynameStitch, thank you for your visit, doctor!
About the soil - i didn't add anything to what was in the bag. It was quite crumbly, i guess there is a coco in it initially, though it isn't mentioned in the contents, and a few hydroton balls. I didn't make any drainage holes - this subject was discussed in a Russian community in which I participate, and the decision was they aren't necessary, and of course you have much less mess without them. But I made a layer of hydroton (about 3-5 cm which is 1-2 inches) at the bottom of the pot. A thin layer of hydroton is on the top to keep moisture inside of soil, and encourage roots to grow in the top soil layers. About the soil itself - don't think that Russian brand will tell you much What is written on the bag: "contents: peat, sand, dolomite lime, mineral fertilizer, N 150-300 mg/kilo, P 200-400, K 300-450 pH 5.5-6.5" However, the true contents of the bag often doesn't match with what is written on it, I've chosen this soil by an advice of experienced grower.
The total flowering period is told to be 10-12 weeks, so it’s only about a half has passed.
P. S. I started trying to make the soil more alkaline by means of watering with a tea of ashes, cos it was clear that something needs to be done quite fast.