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Old 06-06-2011, 01:47 AM #51
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Originally Posted by IwannatokeNbone View Post
never water when u dont need to, always water when u do, alwyays treat individual plants individually, what one varitey needs the other may not. the main thing ive found is maintain the plants metabolism via exact water techniques, if u can say water all 5 plants that need it and wait a half day to water the others that dont quite need it yet u really have something, the entire metabolism is water based, cant stress perfect watering enough and the patience to wait untill exactly when the plant ask for it, when u keep your plant in a high state of metabolism via allowing your medium to breath u get the best results, there is no depression in growth.

l.s.t, spread them apical dominant plant hormones to your advantage
tap water, it has cal mag n plants grow faster in it then pure water
im also thinking that keeping N not low but not at its max untill well into flower say week 5 , what i mean is that ive noticed buds are bigger on plants that arent pumped full of N at the switch(12/12) but gradually get it as the strectch calls for more, with sativas the n requirement will be greater and longer, just read your plants

lol... plants grow faster in water that has cal/mag than straight RO water w/o any nutrients? no shit...

Keep pretending to grow...
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:15 AM #52
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Originally Posted by IwannatokeNbone View Post
cant stress perfect watering enough and the patience to wait untill exactly when the plant ask for it, when u keep your plant in a high state of metabolism via allowing your medium to breath u get the best results, there is no depression in growth.
If growing in soil, then you are correct about wanting to let soil dry out between waterings..... mainly to encourage root growth and keep from getting water logged roots.

In hydro or coco this whole letting the medium dry out between waterings advice doesnt apply though
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:50 AM #53
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One more tip to improve indoor growing is to use automated controllers.
If controllers do the work for you to keep temp,RH,co2 etc... you can spend more time with your plants
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:22 AM #54
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Tip, raise and halve the lights for the last 2 weeks, the plants no longer need high light intensity to grow flowers, they have already done that, but you can and will "cook" almost ready buds and their aromatic terpenes with high temps and intense light at the end phase. Think about how the light in Autumn naturally decreases far more than this...

Dry your bud out properly before bagging, try to pull a bud away from the stalk, it is the dryness of this stalk that tells you the Bud's real state, it is easy to dry the outside of a flower out, yet have far too much in the middle. If you bag weed to wet, it seems to "compost" a bit, loosing smell and %THC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald Mallard View Post
pot snob chiming in .. lol ...

dunno how many times guys have dropped around with a sample they are proud of ,
and ive rudely said .. "ohh cool , thanks ill try that later " , and prolly give it to the next guy that drops around . hehehe ...

its often not how its grown , or what variety ,, but moreso was it properly ripe at harvest , and how was it handled after harvest ,,
ie the drying and curing ..
dunno how many lovely looking buds or samples of , ive seen that were spoilt by that ...

i always figure ,, if your going to spend months growing great cannabis ,, spend the extra time at the end to make it properly smokeable and pleasent in the pipe , its worth it ...
and your other pot snob mates will thank you ,, lol ...
QFT.

95% of the weed I see is immature and that goes for cup entries, certain breeders included .....

Immature weed is a poor representation of what it might have been, why waste months growing a plant then throw it all away because you are impatient ?

Who has actually grown a plant over normal time and checked out how it smokes at various stages of harvest ? It is the only way to truly dial in the harvest date IMO.


Finally, and knowing some will not like to hear this, grow in coco, simply because you cannot flush soil properly, or at least anything like to the extent you can in coco.


There is nothing at all stopping a total Newbie from growing top quality weed on their first crop, elite genetics are way overrated, crap phenos from $20 packs of seed can be great compared to poorly grown elites from growers with 30 years experience.
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:54 AM #55
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Originally Posted by ChaosCatalunya View Post


Finally, and knowing some will not like to hear this, grow in coco, simply because you cannot flush soil properly, or at least anything like to the extent you can in coco.
well... better go organic, then you dont need to flush at all! (somebody had to say that, no?)
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Old 06-06-2011, 09:57 AM #56
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more magnesium, less calcium after stretch is over. more calcium, less magnesium for veg.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:03 AM #57
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well... better go organic, then you dont need to flush at all! (somebody had to say that, no?)
You can do organic in coco if you so wish, either way you will need to flush out your medium, organic nutes or not.

Also, in coco, IMO, it is far easier to get right 100% of the time IMO, you cannot overwater and it is very easy to dial in the right feed levels.

Every virgin grower I have helped start with coco has had 100% success, 1g/w of dank from the word go, now even the local growshop owner has converted. You can get really great results in soil, organically, but it is far harder and there is a lot more scope to get it wrong.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:23 AM #58
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Originally Posted by ChaosCatalunya View Post
You can do organic in coco if you so wish, either way you will need to flush out your medium, organic nutes or not.

Also, in coco, IMO, it is far easier to get right 100% of the time IMO, you cannot overwater and it is very easy to dial in the right feed levels.

Every virgin grower I have helped start with coco has had 100% success, 1g/w of dank from the word go, now even the local growshop owner has converted. You can get really great results in soil, organically, but it is far harder and there is a lot more scope to get it wrong.
i disagree. if you use good soil (high microbial activity and enough "food") u can go with water only, no ph, no ec, just plain tap water and your grow will come out great.
maybe not 1g/w from the go, but the final product is uncomparably better in many ways (taste/smell & high)..
just my experience..
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:13 PM #59
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Flush 14 days minimum

Hello All ! Very Good thread...... 6" Grodan cubes or Hugo's take 14 days to complete flush
and the newer 8" cubes Big Moma's take 21 days to complete flush, this is from years of doing the final flush with, 1st~ 10 days with Final Phase and last 4 days with RO water,with the 6" cubes and with the 8" cubes 1st~ 14 days Final Phase, then RO water for 7 days, people asked if it is Organic grown in soil, we say yes! LOL!!!
Also, these cubes are flushed from the top only and let them drain out, and take a reading of the drain water.....they start out at EC 3.6
and by the end of the flush phase they read EC 0.0.....then chop them.....Each cube receives 1/4 to 1/2 gal flush once per day...
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:30 PM #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosCatalunya View Post
You can do organic in coco if you so wish, either way you will need to flush out your medium, organic nutes or not.
I also disagree. I feel so strongly about not flushing I don't even use containers with drainage holes.

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