[MedResearcher]

The drain I was referring to is the one on the induction tank, not the actual exit where the tea leaves nor the airlift exit. The design is exactly like MMs 12 gal set up.

Bottom of induction tank, to a 90 degree bend. Straight pipe, with 2 Ts. First T is air lift, 2nd T is air intake. After the 2nd T is a ball valve where tea pours out for use.

So the compost can compact in the 90 degree bend, which is really bad because it stops the airlift, and also stops the air from even bubbling up into the tank at all. The water sits completely stagnant.

Mr^^

[MatrixMan]

Finally finished my 6 gallon brewer, lots of trial and error. Thought i'd post and see what you guys think. Using 1/2 inch pvc, eco 5, incorporated my own diffuser using 250 micron stainless still mesh inside a 1/2 compression fitting, no leaks and seems to be working well but I don't have a DO meter so who knows. Want to eventually get a bigger tank but for now this is working wonders in my garden.Thanks microbeman for all the invaluable information! Using homemade vermicompost, organic gem fish hydrolysate and kelp along with golden barrel molasses.

On another note, microbeman, if you could possibly give me some input about a few questions I have about kelp and fish hydrolysate?
1. By the end of the brew, should you still be able to smell the fish? I put about 2 teaspoons in 5 gallons and at about 24 hours I can still smell the fish, wondering if this is normal.
2. On your website, you say that kelp meal can inhibit microbial and fungal activity for about the first 24hrs, but then when you talk about brewing for a fungal brew at the bottom of your page it says to only brew for roughly 18-24hrs. If you would explain this concept further that would be fantastic!

Much love.

[Microbeman]

Originally Posted by MatrixMan

Finally finished my 6 gallon brewer, lots of trial and error. Thought i'd post and see what you guys think. Using 1/2 inch pvc, eco 5, incorporated my own diffuser using 250 micron stainless still mesh inside a 1/2 compression fitting, no leaks and seems to be working well but I don't have a DO meter so who knows. Want to eventually get a bigger tank but for now this is working wonders in my garden.Thanks microbeman for all the invaluable information! Using homemade vermicompost, organic gem fish hydrolysate and kelp along with golden barrel molasses.

On another note, microbeman, if you could possibly give me some input about a few questions I have about kelp and fish hydrolysate?
1. By the end of the brew, should you still be able to smell the fish? I put about 2 teaspoons in 5 gallons and at about 24 hours I can still smell the fish, wondering if this is normal.
2. On your website, you say that kelp meal can inhibit microbial and fungal activity for about the first 24hrs, but then when you talk about brewing for a fungal brew at the bottom of your page it says to only brew for roughly 18-24hrs. If you would explain this concept further that would be fantastic!

Much love.

It sounds from your text that you used 1/2 inch PVC but we can see that is not the case. You mean just for the diffuser.

I rarely recommend brewing for only 24 hours. You should ideally smell very little of the food stock used.

On your website, you say that kelp meal can inhibit microbial and fungal activity for about the first 24hrs

I actually have never said exactly this although many people have quoted me as stating this. I can see that it can be misconstrued to say this though, so I better correct it.

What I mean to say is that some time after 24 hours, whatever it is in kelpmeal which seems to inhibit the microbial division and growth dissipates. I have observed more microbial activity kicking in up to 48 hours when using kelpmeal.

There is no specific time that this may occur and I'm really unsure of the value of using kelpmeal as a foodstock in ACT. Also bear in mind that no 2 'brews' are identical. These days I normally use kelpmeal in a botanical tea with alfalfameal.

There are growers who have sworn by my original recipes, so I've left the kelpmeal in but stress small amounts.

If you do wish to create a highly fungal brew, assuming fungi exists in your compost, then yes, it usually grows out rapidly in 18 to 24 hours (or even less). Black strap molasses is a perfect feedstock for this and combined with Organic Gem fish hydrolysate all the better.

One thing I've learned as time goes by and I see more, is that the complex recipes are not necessary to extract and multiply the three basic microbial groups. Better to have diversely constructed compost or vermicompost.

Looks like a nice job on your machine.

[MatrixMan]

Amazing! Thank you Tim, much appreciated response. Sorry, that was a typo, I used 1.5 inch pvc for the whole thing including the diffuser. The diffuser pictured is a one inch compression fitting I was originally using as a prototype since I had it laying around.

[heady blunts]

nice brewer matrix!

MR I've never used that type of intake manifold so I don't have enough personal experience to give you any engineering advice.

without a pic my best suggestion would be to screen your compost to 1/4 or 1/2 inch to avoid any large twigs or whatnot that may be jamming in the plumbing.

you can always bag the compost and hang it inside the vessel, but I do prefer the clean up on a free suspension design.

[Microbeman]

Originally Posted by MedResearcher

The drain I was referring to is the one on the induction tank, not the actual exit where the tea leaves nor the airlift exit. The design is exactly like MMs 12 gal set up.

Bottom of induction tank, to a 90 degree bend. Straight pipe, with 2 Ts. First T is air lift, 2nd T is air intake. After the 2nd T is a ball valve where tea pours out for use.

So the compost can compact in the 90 degree bend, which is really bad because it stops the airlift, and also stops the air from even bubbling up into the tank at all. The water sits completely stagnant.

Mr^^

As Heady said a photo would help. Perhaps your shut off valve is too far from the air input. Air input stem too long? Tees not butted together? Male fitting in tank drain?

[MedResearcher]

Thanks for the responses, appreciate it. I screened my inputs this time, and so far so good. I think the inputs were the main culprit. First cheaper castings, then cheaper compost. Cheap is nice, but both of these products have a lot of sand, rocks, sticks in them.

So gonna keep screening, and upgrade to some better castings and compost, see if that resolves it. If not, ill post a picture of the design see if it raises any red flags.

Thanks again,
Mr^^

[SmokinErb22]

Is the updated image on page 1 the final design, or did it ever get changed again?

Building brewer myself (finally!) in 55 gallon size - Picked up the elemental 1744, biggest commercial pump they had. Grabbed a length of 1.5" PVC and an elbow (may go opt for a 45* and a length of pipe to get a swirling action going too rather than a straight down splash)

Just been a little confused as to how I hook up the air line. The pump came with a manifold that holds 12 smaller lines. Should I make/buy a manifold to feed 4 lines to the PVC per the revised design? Or even a single 3/8" tube straight to the PVC?

Just pumping air to the base of the pipe causes water to rise? I feel like I'm missing something here.

[heady blunts]

hey smokin.

I've got a new bigger brewer but I haven't taken any pics. I'll snap some in a couple days.

I use a single airline. I got a 3/8" brass nipple and screwed it into the PVC.

it sounds like you found a pretty badass pump, but if you find the flow is not as strong as you'd like you may want to try a slightly narrower tube for the rise. I'm using 1.25" tube for the rise, and 1.5" for the manifold.

instead of the floating bottom like in the first post, i used 3 tee pieces to create a standing foot. it also functions to reduce dead spots by spreading out the points of intake.

make sure you find a good way to secure the riser pipe. keeping it steady and straight up and down will improve the efficiency of the air lift drastically.

good luck! keep us posted with questions and updates!

[Microbeman]

You should be using 1.25" PVC pipe throughout. If you use thin walled 1.25: (class 160 or 200 ASTM) your ID will be 1.5".

I do not know where using 1.5" PVC ever wandered into the picture. If you reduce your riser pipe ID all you will accomplish is reduce your flow, as mentioned in experiments I did, outlined in one of the CT threads.

Do not use the brass nipple which came with the pump, as is mentioned numerous times in one or both of the CT threads and is outlined here; https://www.microbeorganics.com/#So_Y...ost_Tea_Brewer

All of these pumps come with a little threaded brass fitting for screwing into the air output. DO NOT USE THESE! Put them in your parts drawer. These constrict the air and reduce your CFM by at least 20%. Rather, find tubing which slides over the nipple into which the threads are tapped. In the case of the Eco Plus 5 and the Hailea, 5/8ths inside diameter works. Slide the air tubing over and secure with a gear clamp. The Eco Plus has a very short nipple so I score the metal with a couple of swipes with a hacksaw to create barbs for the tubing to grip. You can find tubing at a building supply like Home Depot or Rona in Canada. I use the braided reinforced stuff which does not kink. Always try to keep your pump at or above the surface of the water so it does not siphon back if the power fails.

It is this site where all this information comes from. 5/8" ID is what you want.

Some of this stuff is even mentioned on the page before this one.

If you want details, I understand you can buy plans and video from the airlift brewer patent holder.