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WARNING###Vicious torture of Ducks.No Children.
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 583
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WARNING###Vicious torture of Ducks.No Children.
I've got some more Ducks going for seed and they have been doing terrible. I'm trying everything, less nutes, more nutes, less water more water and every combination above. Here's a present picture.
See how they're yellow around the edges? The whole plant looked just like that. Yellow. Very small amounts of green. One died. After it died I said to myself," you've got to do something different" so the only thing I could think of is to put them in another cab I have. It has compact fluorescents in it and it's on 12/12. My thinking was maybe it would at least slow things down so I could come up with something. They immediatly started getting better. Now I'm stumped. The first time I grew Ducks I did better than this time. What's the difference. The first time I had a CMH (ceramic metal halide) light. Lots of blue. When they were dying they were in a 24/0 cab with a HPS. Hmmm. Ducks hate yellow light? Ducks hate 24/0? Both? The reason I posted this is maybe I've stumbled upon something. Maybe not. Maybe Ducks need a little UV? The CMH has some. Maybe the Compact Flourescents do too. I noticed in the thread on CMH vs. HPS some people say it worked and some damned the CMH and said it killed yield. I wonder if the highly breed indoor plants don't need UV but the landraces or some landraces do. Maybe the need for UV has been breed out of the indoor high yielders. That would account for the controversy. Maybe Duck needs UV? Maybe Duck needs a bluer light? Others here grow Ducks indoors. I would appreciate it if you would say what kind of lights you use. Maybe we can improve things. I have an extra socket I built into my cab for a UV compact fluorescent. I might put one of the Ducks back in with the HPS and hit it with a little UV a few times a day. If I can get around to it that is. |
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#2 |
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M.U.R.D.A. / FMB crew
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: mainlining the secret truth of the universe...
Posts: 1,574
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are u testing for ph?
plants getting lil too dry between waterings?
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bubblehash and cannamilk producer |
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#3 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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You need to get them out of those cups and give their roots some leg room.
They'll come around when they can stretch their legs. Peace... |
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#4 |
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Doing what we do because we are who we are
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,765
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i dont think they like that mix very much mate
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: charming, CA
Posts: 669
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wat is the mix is a good question...
kinDA looks like perlite and vermicUlite bUt I coUld be wrong... so vicious, did U say U switched them into a 12/12 room? did u switch it back to 18/6? or did u mean to start flowering them... because in my experience, even plants that are doing horribly will start to look like theyre doing better once theyre in flower, mainly because in the plants mind it has 2 months to live and its time to stop growin and put energy into bud production(which in the plants mind = seed production).... the reason I bring this up is that the above posts are probably trUe... I would def check the ph of ur water before waterings, as well as ph the runoff... and they need bigger pots.... just because theyre lookin better doesnt mean everythings taken care of... Ive heard, from a few different trustworthy growers, that when a plant has too small an area for its roots, it will of course get rootbound and have the problems associated with that, but from what Ive heard flowering plants in this situation will continue to grow new bud sites that will not make it to mature bud... just trying to help bro, good luck and i hope it gets fixed.... would U mind tellin us wat strain ur runnin(im assuming from all the duck talk its from doobie duck) |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 583
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It's Ducksfoot. I don't think the cups are the problem. I've grown all kinds of stuff in cups including Ducks. They didn't come out perfect but they were not near this bad either. The mix is NAPA soil absorbent. Works great. It's fired diamotacious earth. Hempy style. PH should not be bad 6.0 . If I grew them in regular pots I wouldn't be able to grow them at all. Not enough headroom and I hate scrogs. I refuse to do it. The ph is the same as I used before. Do Ducks require less ph? More ph? Here's some pics in a thread of the Ducks I did last year. Same cups, same media, same nutes but different light. Scroll up a little. Edit... Now I'm confused. The pic looks like a HPS lamp. I think I changed it at the end from CMH to HPS. Come to think of it they started to not do as well then. Hmmm...
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....ks#post3394238 I may have answered some of my own questions. I have three clones in the same type cups. They're just laying there. They don't look good and they're not growing.They're under a HPS at 18/6 so maybe it's not the photoperiod but the light. I put the clones today under a 300W equivalent large fluorescent like you use in floodlights at 24/0. I'll see what happens. If they start looking better I'll know it's the light. If the light is the problem I can fix that. I'll just switch out my CMH for the HPS. I don't proclaim to have completely figured out how to grow Ducksfoot indoors. My nutes probably need tweaking for it but they have been a bitch this time. Duck just seems to be picky indoors. Anyways this is just something I noticed. Maybe I'm full of it and the light makes no difference or maybe I'm on the something. I'll keep experimenting and find out. Wish I was as good as syd. He knows how to grow Ducks. Went and looked at his thread. He's outdoors I think. |
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,361
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Yes, they are root bound. Those plants are way too big for those cups. Transplant them and they will be OK.
Light has NOTHING to do with it. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,811
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hi mr bee
i kn;ow the problem ,, its root space ,, they really dislike pots and will use all the nutrients pretty fast , the bigger the pot , outwards , the better they will grow .. feed them heaps , organic ferts , they cant get enough of them ... they are mostly sativa and will take all u can give them ... the pics look like they are starving for nutes and root space ... |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: The Mind
Posts: 271
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dude its not a ph.. Everyone is stupid.. Is hads to do with the root room.. try cloning and starting fresh.. The roots are prob tangled causing nut lockout and yellowing
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 583
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I appreciate the advice but I'm confused. I'm not trying to be a jerk. For one thing they will not be repotted. I don't have room for bigger plants. If I have to I'll cut them back. The reason for my confusion is it's hydro. Not dirt so nute lock out is not a problem. Is it? Also look at these. Same cups same nutes.
These are the same plants almost done flowering. Same cups same nutes. They are WAY bigger than these I have now. Once again. People tend to get wound up on forums for the smallest reasons. I'm not saying anyones wrong it just I've grown the same thing before and they look worse this time. I'm not just stubborn. Well not completely. I would have to be a little or wouldn't try to grow Ducks indoors at all. I'm going to give a week or so more under some bluer light and if they don't shape up I'll cut them back. Have to don't have space to grow monsters. Thanks for the help. |
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