Dr.Greenthmb420
Member
Moved to a Hydro System a little over a month ago.
The point is I’m trying to avoid the hassle of soil and also granular medium while getting a faster harvest for patients and with attention to detail a larger and better harvest.
I have had alot of people advise not to do Hydro as soil is overall better. However so far the operational cost has been at least half. That not even accounting for the saved time in watering, cleaning, ect..
Currently I have cloned into small Rockwool cubes and then into 4x4x4 Rockwool cubes. After using what Rockwool I had laying around, I bought STG (Sure To Grow) Cubes which are 6x6x4 and cut away a layer on the top to sink in the 4" Rockwool cubes. To avoid bottom roots from drying I use the 1" STG mat and cut to match the bottom of the 6x6 STG cubes. I have found this results in more water left in my reservoir and less needed to reach the overflow. At first I did have a 4ft x 4ft STG mat and found it retained ALOT of my reservoirs water, to the point of almost needing a bigger reservoir. There was about 50% more Medium that didn’t need to be saturated with nutrients.
Over the 4" Rockwool I have installed 4 GPH drip lines that runs water down the base of the Main stock to help push down any salt build-ups that Ebb and Flow systems are known for as your nutrients are raising up to the top rather than normal from the top down. The drip lines are feed from a 12 output dripper kit purchased from Home Depot for $12.00 which is attached to a Brass 4-way garden hose manifold with shut off valves. $14.00. That is attached to a 1200 GPH sump pump $85.00 (a little overkill but its valved). My reservoir holds 30 gallons which is just enough and will be getting a larger one soon. On the flood attachment, I made my own customer bulkhead fitting from some PVC parts and cut my own rubber bushing. Cost around $8.00 for all the pieces I needed to make the Flood/Drain and the OverFlow fittings. Just had to drill some holes flush with the bottom of the table into the Flood/Drain fitting. The way I did it probably helps with oxygenating and mixing the nutrients up good.
My table is actually mostly built with 2x4s and particle board with a thick tarp as a bottom. All stuff I had laying around and at the time didn’t want to pay for a flood table.
Currently I am flooding once a day for 5 minutes and takes roughly 20 minutes to completely drain to under 1 cm of water. The 1 cm usually stays around for a few hours and then the water evaporates or little my get sponged up.
I have chosen General Hydroponics 3 part Flora Series. Its not as expensive as others and found its easy to work with, great manufacture instructions and helpful info on their website too. I have heard this is NASAs choice for their hydro test as well. So far its been getting really good results with changing the solution every 10 to 14 days. Usually start around 1100 PPM and top off the reservoir every 3 to 4 days.
My PH,PPM, and TEMP are monitored by a Hanna 3 in 1 device. $200.00 and well worth it! Helps me keep my PH right around 6.0 to 6.2 with ease! My solution temp is naturally staying around 65F to 68F. I do have a Chiller wand setting in the solution but don’t use it currently. To add oxygen I had two small air pump T-connected to 1 12" long air stone. This is placed close to the sump pump.
Right now I do have rapid growth with great root expansion but I do have a few things I am unsure of.
The most curious is the Purpling of my fan leaves stems. Most of the new growth is not showing this.
I have considered cold temps on the dark cycle (6 hrs) but I get a minimum temp of 18c/64.4F. The Maximum temp by the way never reaches over 26c/78.8F.
Picture above was during the off cycle of the lights and Exhaust.
My lighting consist of 2 XtraSun Reflectors with 1 600w HPS and 1 400w MH. Total lighting cost around 500.00. The reflectors are inline to each others 6" air duct vents which are T-connected in the middle and hooked up to a 8" Can-Fan. The Fan is also overkill and turned down with a Speed controller. $25.00
The 2 reflectors are zip tied securely to 2x4s to get a pretty level and even light distribution. I have used a level to assure it is balanced on the x,y, and z axles. Pretty close to perfectly balanced. Constructing everything symmetrically and opposite placement of the reflectors socket sides help assure this result in balancing.
Please look at my pictures and if you have any suggestions, please comment.
The Final picture below I took today and is in my Flower Room (AKA R2). All Plants in R2 are finishing the last of the soil method and in final stage of phasing out soil! I hope to incease yield by at least 30%, reduce by cost 30% and reduce labor by 30%