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Old 05-31-2011, 02:50 AM #111
turbolaser4528
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Yosemite, cant wait to see harvest pics of your grow brotha !!

Those plants looks really healthy, must see bud shots before I purchase the jacks/caln haha

Found info on the Brix mix, if this is what you use I think you may have your shit down pat sir. Idk if this is what you meant but here goes:


"Created by Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply and continuously improved upon with over 16 years of research and grower trials. Formulated to increase Brix (or sugar content). Brix Mix contains carefully proportioned amounts of hydrolyzed fish powder, Omega 6-6-6, Maxicrop, Diamond K sulfate of potash, powdered sugar, Multi-Ke-Min trace minerals, Humax humic acids, sulfur, corn calcium and Therm X70 yucca extract. Raising Brix levels brings quick & dramatic production benefits. In trials, when applied correctly, we have seen yields increase over 25% after only 2 foliar applications. Insect and disease reduction for aphids, leafminers, flea beetles, whiteflies, spider mites, caterpillars, powdery mildew, botrytis, brown rot, anthracnose, shot hole and other fungi. High Brix also helps crops deal with climatic and other stress, and maintain its quality during post-harvest handling. Brix Mix includes a liquid and a powder component which must be used together. For an acre application, mix 10-12 lb of powder in 25-200 gallons of agitating warm water, add 1 gallon of liquid Brix Mix and spray while agitating. Rates per gallon are 3 tbs of liquid and 5 tbs of powder. Growers report best results when applied at least 3 or 4 times per crop at 3 to 4 lb of powder and 1 quart of liquid per acre per application. It is best to apply when Brix is low, soil is cool, during insect outbreaks or climatic stress, and at pre-bloom or flowering growth stages. To increase effectiveness, add 35% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and ascorbic acid (see Foliar Spray Enhancers section). Incompatible with Cherimoyas. Do not spray within a week of harvest as the residue could affect taste of the crop."


No need for this in early flower? Does it come in solely powder form?

sounds like a killer product, I wonder the Price per lb. Might have to get the brix mix, and jack/caln shipped to me.


After seeing you plants that is more pictures !!!!! and thoughts on using Drip Clean by H@G rather than bleach, makes me feel like im poisoning my plants with bleach ! haha cheers

No bloom additives huh? very interesting, any reasoning for this?? alfalfa, pk boost? no?
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:21 PM #112
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:15 PM #113
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Brix mix was by Peaceful Valley Farms but, unfortunately, they are no longer making it. The formula for it is posted in Tom Hill's forum somewhere.

As far as a flower boost...here is my opinion. When you have a well balanced formula like Jack's/CaNO3 and you add, say MKP to it for a flower boost...do you still have a balanced overall formula.

From memory I think that base formula has K:Ca:Mg ratios of close to 4:2:1. So now you stick K and P in there. That extra K could lock out Ca and/or Mg and you will see deficiencies.

That is a real concern...not merely theoretical.

If everything looks good and you think you need a boost then just up the concentration. That allows you to maintain proper ratios.

If you wanna hold N levels while raising K and P then it gets a little more complicated. Along with K and P you would also need to raise Ca and Mg...but, obviously, not with any of the CalMag products that contain N.

Anyways, all of that is why I went to raw salts. It allows me to run whatever ratios at whatever ppms my twisted brain can dream up.

Is that a good thing...highly debatable, but the road I have chosen regardless.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:29 AM #114
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:47 AM #115
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Old 06-03-2011, 06:20 PM #116
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Thanks yosemitesam.

With just jacks and calcium nitrate, do you ever experience a lack of Magnesium? I suppose one could just add epsom salts to correct this if if were to happen (tap water vs. RO and strain/enviro also play a part?)

Question, I love Drip Clean, I believe it prevents lockouts and deficiencies due to salt buildup or improper ratios or shitty quality coco.

Should I just use bleach instead?

And I was thinking of just getting the GH or Botanicare coco bales shipped to me because they are cheaper, and less shady than buying ten bags of Canna Coco from the hydro whore stores.


Lastly, any thoughts on amending the coco with lava rock (possibly broken up to make it similar in size to chuncky perlite) to increase porosity in the medium?

I will go with smart pots as you do, a good chunky coco, and maybe some lava rock in there and super oxygenated solution drip feeding the plants jacks/calnit for greatness!
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:00 PM #117
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What about doing an A & B NPK-CalNit concentrates so you can just put X ml to a liter/gal of each and still getting the correct ppms??

I was trying to do the maths yesterday but I'm just bad at maths... My calculations lead me to this: 200g/l NPK & 120g/l calnit dissolutions that I can use at a 5ml/l rate of each to equal in the "final solution" the said 3,6g+2,4g per liter. How wrong am I? Could I double the salts dissolved to divide the dosage, say 2,5ml/l or even less? Should I stick to a commercial bottled thing and stop messing around before I kill my plants??
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:14 PM #118
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Thanks yosemitesam.

With just jacks and calcium nitrate, do you ever experience a lack of Magnesium? I suppose one could just add epsom salts to correct this if if were to happen (tap water vs. RO and strain/enviro also play a part?)

I never had a problem

Question, I love Drip Clean, I believe it prevents lockouts and deficiencies due to salt buildup or improper ratios or shitty quality coco.

I do not believe in that stuff at all...less I had some drip lines to clean out. I would prefer not to say why though...just stay out of this one.

Should I just use bleach instead?

If you want a sterile environment that would work. I do not do that anymore...I have come to like microbiology

And I was thinking of just getting the GH or Botanicare coco bales shipped to me because they are cheaper, and less shady than buying ten bags of Canna Coco from the hydro whore stores.


Lastly, any thoughts on amending the coco with lava rock (possibly broken up to make it similar in size to chuncky perlite) to increase porosity in the medium?

I think it would work fine if that is what you want to do. My opinion is that coco is open enough without it. Once the plant has established roots it would be hard to under oxygenate it. I do not like throwing out stuff that will never decompose unless I have to.

I will go with smart pots as you do, a good chunky coco, and maybe some lava rock in there and super oxygenated solution drip feeding the plants jacks/calnit for greatness!
But those are just my opinions
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:07 PM #119
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Appreciate that, Yosemitesam.

Jacks/Calnit at 1:.66 ratio. Adjust strength as needed, ya?

I will be using a drip system w/ the Drip Clean, but ill leave the rest of that topic alone as you suggested.

Lastly, what is your feed frequency in flower, as in, do you feed multiple times per day at a lower strength (ie: 750ppm) to increase yield, or ..?


Do us a huge favor and post final bud shots n' weight, so very excited. Thank you.

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Old 06-04-2011, 12:02 AM #120
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I have a journal here https://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydro...ical-grow.html

I have switched to raw salts but I think there is some hydro special/cano3 stuff in it.
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