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cloning question: rooting hormone vs seaweed extract

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
hey all,

my seaweed extract has instructions for mixing a solution for dipping cuttings to encourage rooting. should i really drop $20 bucks on clonex or does anyone have any first hand experience using a strong kelp dilution for cuttings?

thanks!
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
hey all,

my seaweed extract has instructions for mixing a solution for dipping cuttings to encourage rooting. should i really drop $20 bucks on clonex or does anyone have any first hand experience using a strong kelp dilution for cuttings?

thanks!
From the founder of Maxicrop in an extract from his book circa 1968:
"Brown seaweeds, which are the ones used in agriculture and horticulture, not only contain vitamins common to land plants, but also vitamins which may owe their origin to bacteria which attach themselves to sea plants, in particular vitamin B12. There is still some doubt about this -- B12 may be contained in the seaweed, although in some cases it is in associated bacteria. Vitamins known to be present in the brown seaweeds include vitamin C (ascorbic acid), which appears in as high a proportion as in lucerne. Vitamin A is not present, but its precursor, beta-carotene, is, as well as fucoxanthin, which may also be the precursor of Vitamin A. B group vitamins present are B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B12, as well as pantothenic acid, folic acid and folinic acid. Also found in brown seaweeds are vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin K, and other growth-promoting substances. The unusual nature of the vitamin E in seaweed should be stressed. It has valuable characteristics (put technically, a complete set of isomers) found only in such seed oils as wheat germ oil.

Auxins in seaweed include indolyl-acetic acid, discovered in seaweed in 1933 for the first time. Two new auxins, as yet unidentified, but unlike any of the known indolyl-acetic acid types, were also discovered in 1958 in the Laminaria and Ascophyllum seaweeds used for processing into dried seaweed meal and liquid extract. These auxins have been found to encourage the growth of more cells -- in which they differ from more familiar types of auxin which simply enlarge the cells without increasing their number. One of the auxins also stimulates growth in both stems and roots of plants, and in this differs from indolyl-acetic acid and its derivatives, which cause cells to elongate but not to divide. The balanced action of this seaweed auxin has not been found in any other auxin."
[cite]

HTH

CC
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Cloning solution is a product meant for hard stemed plants like tree cutting or from a MJ plant where a clone is take from a woody section of a mother plant (which I avoid).
Cloning success depends much more on environment that products.
A mix of 3/4 perlite to 1/4 peat with a little worm casting wil be a perfect mix.
Make sure you ''temper'' you plants, lift the dome off or whatever your using to keep humidity high so as to encourage new roots to seek out moisture in the soil.
Keep the dome off a little longer each day.
Too much kelp in veg and especially with newly rooted clones or seedlings can cause them to stretch so keep an eye on that.

§ub's
 

NUG-JUG

Member
The only thing about seaweed extract is that it's a liquid not a gel like the clonex. it still works but it doesn't glob onto the cut as well.
 
S

staff11

The only thing about seaweed extract is that it's a liquid not a gel like the clonex. it still works but it doesn't glob onto the cut as well.

I think you are supposed to soak in a solution? I use it with cheap peat pellets that are soaked in a tsp of soluble kelp per gallon, no gel or powder.
 

NUG-JUG

Member
soaking the cloning medium with the kelp solution is probably better. my mistake was probably trying to use the seaweed as if it was clone gel..it still worked, but the 'grow more' seaweed extract calls for 5 oz. per gallon. Thinking that was a lot I used 2.5. That's way more than a teaspoon..maybe i should cut back a little?
 
S

staff11

Well I use /v\axicrop powder... (well shit the /v\ key is broken on this PC) Not sure if it would be advisable with your product?

I just went of their instructions. Sorry. :(
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
The only thing about seaweed extract is that it's a liquid not a gel like the clonex. it still works but it doesn't glob onto the cut as well.
NUG-JUG

In this part of the world growing Christmas trees commercially is a huge industry - it's really amazing actually on how many are harvested and shipped each season.

These trees are 'cloned' and the only rooting agent used is a local product Dip-n-Grow. Period.

There came a point in time a few years back that this industry as well as the commercial nursery folks asked the Dip-n-Grow company to come up with a gel product as their testing showed that using a gel provided a better rooted tree cutting.

Dip-n-Grow began to sell the specific 'gel agent' used by the growstore rooting products that are gels like Clonex, et al. It is a carboxymethyl cellulose based product that when mixed with water is very thick and viscous. The product is called 'Dip-Gel' and it is completely inert, i.e. it does not contain any of the ingredients found in Dip-n-Grow or any other rooting product.

You can use this to make your own rooting gel by starting with a kelp meal tea (or you could use soluble seaweed extract) which will give you the IAA component found in every rooting compound as it's in the kelp product naturally and not in a concentrated form.

To that kelp tea you could add some humic acid, micronized mycorrhizal powder and you'd be good to go.

The Dip-Gel product costs $16.00 per lb. and it only takes 10-12 grams of this to turn a full gallon of liquid into a gel. Here's the FAQ on this product to review.

If a person wanted to make a solid rooting gel and not break the bank then this product might be something to consider using.

HTH

CC
 
N

ngen

hey all,

my seaweed extract has instructions for mixing a solution for dipping cuttings to encourage rooting. should i really drop $20 bucks on clonex or does anyone have any first hand experience using a strong kelp dilution for cuttings?

thanks!

i havn't done side by sides have i have cloned similiar sized cuttings from a variety of plants, from succulents to cacti to cannabis. Cuttings with liquid kelp always lasted longer and developed roots sooner.

the gel i used was a nice one from a hydro shop i got for cheap, 'root's' i think, with a mishmash of all the different B vitamins and stuff.

its not very scientific or anything but everytime i have to clone something i bust out the liquid kelp, the hormone is probaly dusty by now........
 

BadRabbit

Active member
Depends on conditions, as mentioned, but my dozen years or so of cloning experience has taught me "less crap in the water, the better" ... super, super light dose of nutes and lower Ph, if necessary, but when it doubt, leave it out.

IMO of course,,
rabbit
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
soaking the cloning medium with the kelp solution is probably better. my mistake was probably trying to use the seaweed as if it was clone gel..it still worked, but the 'grow more' seaweed extract calls for 5 oz. per gallon. Thinking that was a lot I used 2.5. That's way more than a teaspoon..maybe i should cut back a little?

i have the same kelp and that was the same bit of info on the side of the bottle that inspired this thread. it seems like a VERY strong solution, and so i was wondering if it was intended to be a dip or what.

it seems like everyone has good success with the seaweed. i think i'll try the method of soaking my rockwool in a kelp solution and then squeezing them out as recommended in the cloning sticky by JJscorpio.

thanks for all the input! keep it coming!
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
CC-

great info, but maybe too advanced for me at the moment! it's good to know that the gels are just the normal goodies with a bit of cellulose.
 

fonzee

Weed Cannasaur
Moderator
Veteran
I bought a local powder cloning agent for 25NIS (around 7 bucks) for a bottle the size of clonex.
20 bucks? that sounds like quite a lot.

I've read somewhere that saliva does the same thing and you could just lick the stem instead of using a rooting agent.
No clue if it works like that.
I got my cucumber cutting to root with that. Might have done the same without it.
 

yortbogey

To Have More ... Desire Less
Veteran
try this

try this

Willow Water Rooting Solution
A number of years ago I knew a grower who used this method and swore by it. He had the best results with this solution in a hydroponic aerated clone machine.

For any who want to try willow water for yourself, here is the "standard" method:

1. Collect stems of nearly any species of willow (Salix spp.). Weeping willow (S. babylonica) is probably most popular, but we use S. caroliniana with good success.
You want young first-year twigs, with green or yellow bark; not old enough to develop brown or gray bark.
2. Strip off and discard all the leaves. All you want are the twigs. Cut the twigs into 1" lengths. Now you have what looks like a pile of small matchsticks.
3. Add enough water to barely cover your twigs. At this point, methods vary among workers. You can either heat the mixture almost (but not quite) to the boil, and brew it like tea, letting it soak until thoroughly cool, and for several hours more, OR you can not heat it, and just let it soak, like "sun tea" for several days, in the room-temperature water. In either case, when the liquid develops a greenish-yellowish-brown color, rather like weak tea, You filter off the solids, keeping the liquid. It will keep in the fridge for several weeks, or may be used immediately.
4. When ready to root your cuttings, make a fresh cut at the base of the cutting, and place it in the willow water, like flowers in a vase. Leave it there several hours, so it has time to take up a significant amount of the willow water. At the end of the soak time, you can rewound the base and apply an auxin-based hormone. Then root the cutting in your normal way.



SNAGGED from another site......BUT really does work
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
For clones I dip in clonex, then use rapid rooters that were soaked then squeezed with a weak liquid karma solution. This goes in a party cup with a hole in the bottom. The cup has a couple of inches of my soil mix then filled with organic potting soil. I spray often for a day or three with the liquid karma, then remove the plastic dome covering them. For the next week or so I spray twice per day then taper off. In 2 plus weeks I have new growth. In my state where plant numbers are important, we want all healthy vigarous clones. Weak ones could set you back weeks, so I don't mind the twenty spent on clonex........scrappy
 

habeeb

follow your heart
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think the best way is what works for you,

try it and see if it works, if not do it again, I mean its a clone, it is basically free to experiment with..

I heave heard much talk of people not being able to adapt to different cloning methods. I think it best to be versed in all methods of cloning for knowing. never know when you might be limited.. there is the other side of being simple and keeping what works. I can tell you though, that rooting can work from the most basic ( water ) to all sorts of additives and systems..
 

MJBadger

Active member
Veteran
Natrual rooting hormone

Natrual rooting hormone

Willow Water Rooting Solution
A number of years ago I knew a grower who used this method and swore by it. He had the best results with this solution in a hydroponic aerated clone machine.

For any who want to try willow water for yourself, here is the "standard" method:

1. Collect stems of nearly any species of willow (Salix spp.). Weeping willow (S. babylonica) is probably most popular, but we use S. caroliniana with good success.
You want young first-year twigs, with green or yellow bark; not old enough to develop brown or gray bark.
2. Strip off and discard all the leaves. All you want are the twigs. Cut the twigs into 1" lengths. Now you have what looks like a pile of small matchsticks.
3. Add enough water to barely cover your twigs. At this point, methods vary among workers. You can either heat the mixture almost (but not quite) to the boil, and brew it like tea, letting it soak until thoroughly cool, and for several hours more, OR you can not heat it, and just let it soak, like "sun tea" for several days, in the room-temperature water. In either case, when the liquid develops a greenish-yellowish-brown color, rather like weak tea, You filter off the solids, keeping the liquid. It will keep in the fridge for several weeks, or may be used immediately.
4. When ready to root your cuttings, make a fresh cut at the base of the cutting, and place it in the willow water, like flowers in a vase. Leave it there several hours, so it has time to take up a significant amount of the willow water. At the end of the soak time, you can rewound the base and apply an auxin-based hormone. Then root the cutting in your normal way.



SNAGGED from another site......BUT really does work

Heady Blunts , this is exactly what i was going to post when i first opened the thread , willow water actually thickens up & will root almost any plant .
It has natrual Satylic acid ? & if you do a web search on willow water you will find it has the same properties of hormone rooting powder/gel only purely natrual with no chemicals .

Stay green .
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
such as good ol' bee honey
please explain?


Willow Water Rooting Solution
A number of years ago I knew a grower who used this method and swore by it. He had the best results with this solution in a hydroponic aerated clone machine.

For any who want to try willow water for yourself, here is the "standard" method:

1. Collect stems of nearly any species of willow (Salix spp.). Weeping willow (S. babylonica) is probably most popular, but we use S. caroliniana with good success.
You want young first-year twigs, with green or yellow bark; not old enough to develop brown or gray bark.
2. Strip off and discard all the leaves. All you want are the twigs. Cut the twigs into 1" lengths. Now you have what looks like a pile of small matchsticks.
3. Add enough water to barely cover your twigs. At this point, methods vary among workers. You can either heat the mixture almost (but not quite) to the boil, and brew it like tea, letting it soak until thoroughly cool, and for several hours more, OR you can not heat it, and just let it soak, like "sun tea" for several days, in the room-temperature water. In either case, when the liquid develops a greenish-yellowish-brown color, rather like weak tea, You filter off the solids, keeping the liquid. It will keep in the fridge for several weeks, or may be used immediately.
4. When ready to root your cuttings, make a fresh cut at the base of the cutting, and place it in the willow water, like flowers in a vase. Leave it there several hours, so it has time to take up a significant amount of the willow water. At the end of the soak time, you can rewound the base and apply an auxin-based hormone. Then root the cutting in your normal way.



SNAGGED from another site......BUT really does work

Heady Blunts , this is exactly what i was going to post when i first opened the thread , willow water actually thickens up & will root almost any plant .
It has natrual Satylic acid ? & if you do a web search on willow water you will find it has the same properties of hormone rooting powder/gel only purely natrual with no chemicals .

Stay green .

very cool you guys. this has piqued my interest. i'm gonna research my local willow species and get to scavenging...
 

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