Spider Mites - Growing in Greenhouses - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

10-02-2010, 06:34 AM

Nasty nasty nasty...
Not the entire plant has been infected. Notice the last photo is of part of the same plant and it has no mite damage. Things can go down hill very fast in a dry/hot greenhouse. This plant was removed after the photos were taken.

I think I am going to start spraying with plain water regularly to help keep the mites at bay. I am at a loss with the buds being so far along. I have experimented with neem and it sure does give things a nasty taste when smoked. Not recommended. Maybe a mister or fogger system? I wish I had preped better by starting with a cleaner environment and introduced predator nematodes during veg. This is my first grow in a greenhouse and I am starting to realize how much of a challenge pest control can be.

Tripsick · 10-02-2010, 06:43 AM

Damn how long did it take for them to build that web?

You can get a tri pack of miticide from ebay Avid, Floramite, and forbid
maybe some Hotshot no pest strips and use all 4...

or start over

kigy · 10-02-2010, 06:47 AM

Yeah its really something you kind of have to be on top of before they web up like that and take over. I noticed that switching between sprays (azatrol, avid, neem, etc.) and spraying at the very first sighting of mites tends to be the most effective. In the bay area we have mites that have evolved to become resistant against most miticides, so I have to spray at least 1-2 week up til the last week or two of flower. Once they've made their web colonies its damn near impossible to get rid of them completely so prevention is key.

Nicoli · 10-02-2010, 06:56 AM

Damn. that's pretty gnarly. I dont know there is much you can do at this point honestly.

10-02-2010, 09:04 AM

I have used cold pressed neem, azamax (same as azatrol, a neem byproduct), organicide (fish oil), avid (only early in veg), sucrashield (tobacco byproduct), and spinosad throughout this crop. I could definitely have done more for prevention early on but still things were going well enough until I cut back on my routine (due to flowering). This plant developed these webs over the course of only a couple days. It is amazing how fast things go downhill when they go.

All the plants just outside the greenhouse have *no* mite damage what-so-ever. I wish I could open up the sides.

simos · 10-04-2010, 06:40 AM

That's quite the borg colony...

Good decision with the removal. Some would have recommended the vacuum method or any number of half-solutions, but that baby was gone gone gone.

Stay vigilant next year!

FillthePotmore · 10-04-2010, 07:11 AM

I recently added this post to the, "Growing Big Plants Outdoors" thread...

Dr. Bronner's = Eradication of Mites? We shall see!
"Insecticidal soaps are a rather mean way to kill mites. Derived from organic soaps like Castile soap, insecticidal soaps kill mites and other plant pests by compromising their cellular integrity, causing cells to rupture and die. In other words, insecticidal soaps dissolve the spider mite from the inside out, slowly turning them into mush.

I came across this information concerning the dreaded Spider Mites last evening... Apparently Dr. Bronner's Soap should do the trick... (Coincidentally, my wife picked a new bottle up today)... Farmers add canola oil as a wetting agent; plus, garlic and jalapeno peppers as a compounded deterrent (I apply this on rock borders to detour slugs, goats, dogs and other pests around garden beds on the Islands). However, I'm going to add Yucca with the recommended 1TBS per quart or 2oz per gallon of soap to water and do a tester spray this morning on a small mite colony recently found on a Blue Dream tree. The Blue Dream has another month until it will be ready for harvest. If it doesn't damage the plant then I'll be bringing the atomizer to the forefront and introducing the "soap" solution this weekend!

UPDATE: I applied the Dr. Bronner's Soap and Yucca potion to the Blue Dreams that had had visible signs of Spider Mite infestation... And it worked wonders! In fact, I ended up applying this solution three days in a row. It didn't harm the plants a bit, while diminishing the signs of the Spider Mites significantly. As a safety precaution, I ended up atomizing the entire Blue Dream Blvd. A note of caution: I wouldn't apply Dr. Bronner's "Peppermint" Soap if harvesting within a week or two for the peppermint essential oil and the soap compounds could effect the texture, flavor, and smell of your flowers. However, if harvest is beyond two weeks the Bronner's soap should have plenty of time to wash off and deteriorate in the Fall weather.

"The recipe for Insecticidal soap is 1 teaspoon of real soap, not a detergent, in 1 quart of water. You only need about 1 percent soap solution to be effective and you do not need oil or anything else. What makes the insecticidal soap effective is the fatty acids from the animal fats the soap is made from which is why you need real soap and not a detergent. Those fatty acids dissolve the target insects exoskeleton so they dehydrate."

"After 100 years, Fels Naptha Soap is still used everyday in hundreds of households for everything from poison ivy treatment, garden fertilizer and insecticide as well as laundry detergent to stain removal." and... "...use it as a general cleaner for floors, tubs and showers, or dissolve it in water and spray as an insecticide in the garden."

Here's what they said about Dr. Bronners: "As a preventative mix 1 tablespoon Dr Bronner's Peppermint soap per quart water. Spray on vegetables on a regular bases or first sign of trouble. On specific pests mix 5 tablespoons per quart water. Test first on plant/bug to see if it is too strong or not strong enough."

pearlemae · 10-04-2010, 07:53 AM

Fillthepotmore, try a different flavor of Bronners. I've found a spray called Pyganic to work on mites. Works real well it organic pyrtheins from So Africa. degrades in bright light and air movement but kicks mites in the ass.

kmk420kali · 10-07-2010, 07:07 PM

Cloudbase, I feel for ya man!! Our greenhouse is in the desert, and it is very difficult to deal with mites...the li'l bastards come out of nowhere!!
I know this doesn't help you now, but it is imperative that you start aggressive treatment from day 1--
That being said, you look to be what, a couple weeks out??
If you start throwing water on it multiple times a day, you will almost certainly promote mold or PM--
Myself, I would take a li'l dustbuster and vacuum it as good as you can-- (Drench the inside of the vacuum with raid, to kill them as they are collected)
Then, use some Einstein Oil (It doesn't have the horrible smell that neem does) and hold your sprayer directly over the top, letting the spray just mist down, that way it only hits the tops of the leaves, for the most part-- That will help a li'l to keep them in check long enough to harvest--
Or you can just vacuum them everyday--
It is very difficult to deal with that, this late--
The only (sort of) good news is, when you chop and hang, the live mites will leave the plant-- (Cover the line you hang them on with undiluted neem, so they don't start wandering around)
Good luck man--

TokinPrincess · 10-10-2010, 04:27 PM

That was one bad looking web, the ones I had were pretty icky too. I've had plenty of mite issues this time around, and hopefully now we know better to get aggressive of them from the start.

10-02-2010, 06:34 AM	#1
guest4098 Guest Posts: n/a	Spider Mites Nasty nasty nasty... Not the entire plant has been infected. Notice the last photo is of part of the same plant and it has no mite damage. Things can go down hill very fast in a dry/hot greenhouse. This plant was removed after the photos were taken. I think I am going to start spraying with plain water regularly to help keep the mites at bay. I am at a loss with the buds being so far along. I have experimented with neem and it sure does give things a nasty taste when smoked. Not recommended. Maybe a mister or fogger system? I wish I had preped better by starting with a cleaner environment and introduced predator nematodes during veg. This is my first grow in a greenhouse and I am starting to realize how much of a challenge pest control can be. Attached Thumbnails
	Quote

10-02-2010, 06:43 AM	#2
Tripsick Experienced? Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 1,419	Damn how long did it take for them to build that web? You can get a tri pack of miticide from ebay Avid, Floramite, and forbid maybe some Hotshot no pest strips and use all 4... or start over __________________ it's better to burn out than to fade away Last edited by Tripsick; 10-02-2010 at 07:03 AM.. Reason: more advice..
	Quote

10-02-2010, 06:47 AM	#3
kigy eba Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 241	Yeah its really something you kind of have to be on top of before they web up like that and take over. I noticed that switching between sprays (azatrol, avid, neem, etc.) and spraying at the very first sighting of mites tends to be the most effective. In the bay area we have mites that have evolved to become resistant against most miticides, so I have to spray at least 1-2 week up til the last week or two of flower. Once they've made their web colonies its damn near impossible to get rid of them completely so prevention is key.
	Quote

10-02-2010, 06:56 AM	#4
Nicoli Banned Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Shelby, NC Posts: 2,033	Damn. that's pretty gnarly. I dont know there is much you can do at this point honestly.
	Quote

10-02-2010, 09:04 AM	#5
guest4098 Guest Posts: n/a	I have used cold pressed neem, azamax (same as azatrol, a neem byproduct), organicide (fish oil), avid (only early in veg), sucrashield (tobacco byproduct), and spinosad throughout this crop. I could definitely have done more for prevention early on but still things were going well enough until I cut back on my routine (due to flowering). This plant developed these webs over the course of only a couple days. It is amazing how fast things go downhill when they go. All the plants just outside the greenhouse have no mite damage what-so-ever. I wish I could open up the sides.
	Quote

10-04-2010, 06:40 AM	#6
simos Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: A Potting Shed Posts: 240	That's quite the borg colony... Good decision with the removal. Some would have recommended the vacuum method or any number of half-solutions, but that baby was gone gone gone. Stay vigilant next year! __________________ Prop 215 Compliant - to the letter and the spirit of the law
	Quote

10-04-2010, 07:11 AM	#7
FillthePotmore Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 80	Update: Eradicating Mites I recently added this post to the, "Growing Big Plants Outdoors" thread... Dr. Bronner's = Eradication of Mites? We shall see! "Insecticidal soaps are a rather mean way to kill mites. Derived from organic soaps like Castile soap, insecticidal soaps kill mites and other plant pests by compromising their cellular integrity, causing cells to rupture and die. In other words, insecticidal soaps dissolve the spider mite from the inside out, slowly turning them into mush. I came across this information concerning the dreaded Spider Mites last evening... Apparently Dr. Bronner's Soap should do the trick... (Coincidentally, my wife picked a new bottle up today)... Farmers add canola oil as a wetting agent; plus, garlic and jalapeno peppers as a compounded deterrent (I apply this on rock borders to detour slugs, goats, dogs and other pests around garden beds on the Islands). However, I'm going to add Yucca with the recommended 1TBS per quart or 2oz per gallon of soap to water and do a tester spray this morning on a small mite colony recently found on a Blue Dream tree. The Blue Dream has another month until it will be ready for harvest. If it doesn't damage the plant then I'll be bringing the atomizer to the forefront and introducing the "soap" solution this weekend! UPDATE: I applied the Dr. Bronner's Soap and Yucca potion to the Blue Dreams that had had visible signs of Spider Mite infestation... And it worked wonders! In fact, I ended up applying this solution three days in a row. It didn't harm the plants a bit, while diminishing the signs of the Spider Mites significantly. As a safety precaution, I ended up atomizing the entire Blue Dream Blvd. A note of caution: I wouldn't apply Dr. Bronner's "Peppermint" Soap if harvesting within a week or two for the peppermint essential oil and the soap compounds could effect the texture, flavor, and smell of your flowers. However, if harvest is beyond two weeks the Bronner's soap should have plenty of time to wash off and deteriorate in the Fall weather. "The recipe for Insecticidal soap is 1 teaspoon of real soap, not a detergent, in 1 quart of water. You only need about 1 percent soap solution to be effective and you do not need oil or anything else. What makes the insecticidal soap effective is the fatty acids from the animal fats the soap is made from which is why you need real soap and not a detergent. Those fatty acids dissolve the target insects exoskeleton so they dehydrate." "After 100 years, Fels Naptha Soap is still used everyday in hundreds of households for everything from poison ivy treatment, garden fertilizer and insecticide as well as laundry detergent to stain removal." and... "...use it as a general cleaner for floors, tubs and showers, or dissolve it in water and spray as an insecticide in the garden." Here's what they said about Dr. Bronners: "As a preventative mix 1 tablespoon Dr Bronner's Peppermint soap per quart water. Spray on vegetables on a regular bases or first sign of trouble. On specific pests mix 5 tablespoons per quart water. Test first on plant/bug to see if it is too strong or not strong enough." __________________ As always Blessings & Respect
	Quote 1 members found this post helpful.

10-04-2010, 07:53 AM	#8
pearlemae May your race always be in your favor Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: On the Short Bus to nowhere Posts: 2,405	Fillthepotmore, try a different flavor of Bronners. I've found a spray called Pyganic to work on mites. Works real well it organic pyrtheins from So Africa. degrades in bright light and air movement but kicks mites in the ass. __________________ Liberalism is the trust of the people tempered by prudence. Conservatism is the distrust of the people tempered by fear. William H Gladstone
	Quote

10-07-2010, 07:07 PM	#9
kmk420kali Freedom Fighter Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: So Cal Posts: 5,852	Cloudbase, I feel for ya man!! Our greenhouse is in the desert, and it is very difficult to deal with mites...the li'l bastards come out of nowhere!! I know this doesn't help you now, but it is imperative that you start aggressive treatment from day 1-- That being said, you look to be what, a couple weeks out?? If you start throwing water on it multiple times a day, you will almost certainly promote mold or PM-- Myself, I would take a li'l dustbuster and vacuum it as good as you can-- (Drench the inside of the vacuum with raid, to kill them as they are collected) Then, use some Einstein Oil (It doesn't have the horrible smell that neem does) and hold your sprayer directly over the top, letting the spray just mist down, that way it only hits the tops of the leaves, for the most part-- That will help a li'l to keep them in check long enough to harvest-- Or you can just vacuum them everyday-- It is very difficult to deal with that, this late-- The only (sort of) good news is, when you chop and hang, the live mites will leave the plant-- (Cover the line you hang them on with undiluted neem, so they don't start wandering around) Good luck man-- __________________ With Red-Eyed Respect--Jim My GH at the pad-- https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....=1#post4996785
	Quote 1 members found this post helpful.

10-10-2010, 04:27 PM	#10
TokinPrincess Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Right behind you! Posts: 49	That was one bad looking web, the ones I had were pretty icky too. I've had plenty of mite issues this time around, and hopefully now we know better to get aggressive of them from the start.
	Quote