[Cannasseur]

It's not conclusive, but I've seen a couple articles indicating that compost teas can be affective in reduction of Leaf Spot. Just puttin' it out there as food for thought.

Toker, I have not used that product myself but the active ingredient is bacillus subtillis which seems to have some effect as a suppressant.

Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 is a widespread bacterium found in soil, water, and air. Bacillus subtilis strain QST 713 controls the growth of certain harmful bacteria and fungi, presumably by competing for nutrients, growth sites on plants, and by directly colonizing and attaching to fungal pathogens.
# Use Sites, Target Pests, and Application Methods

* Use Sites: B. subtilis strain QST 713 is approved for use on a wide variety of food crops, including cherries, cucurbits, grapes, leafy vegetables, peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, and walnuts.


* Target Pests: Fungi and bacteria that cause scab, powdery mildew, sour rot, downy mildew, and early leaf spot, early blight, late blight, bacterial spot, and walnut blight diseases.


* Application Methods: B. subtilis strain QST 713 is sold as a powder that is mixed with water and sprayed on foliage using ground equipment. The number and timing of applications vary with crop and level of infestation.

[D.S. Toker. MD]

I just got off the phone with the county extension service. They told me that a product called Liquid Copper does the job. Im hunting..

https://www.bonideproducts.com/lbonid...abels/l775.pdf

There are 2 garden nurseries within 20 miles of me and both carry Liquid Copper. One told me it was the product they recommend and that it was "very effective at controlling it". Check your local nursery

[hamstring]

Man thanks guys for the responses. First of all I used green cure last year and I think I was able to save roughly 75% of my plants but they had less leaves and therefore less yield I probably got 3/4 - 1/2 the yield I normally would have had.

The bad news is 20/20 hindsight I should have known if conditions were right it would be worse this year because it winters over. That’s what happened to me I let myself believe that because of a dry spring I was in the clear.

Last thing is that from what I have read the spores release early-mid spring and don’t show any signs until around August 1st and that rings true in my case.

Ghost of sage
Man brother very very close to what I did. Last year I sprayed 3/4 strength Green Cure on my plants then I doubled the dosage and sprayed on the ground. It seemed to help. This year I knew what it was right away but and I want to make this clear to all of the guerillas who are interested. "It don’t mean shit because they get hit by the spores in the spring and it’s already in the plant."

Ghost of Sage
You hit the nail on the head. If I heard you right did you spray as soon as you planted or when you saw the first sign??
From what I read it has to be preventive so next year I will go with a 2 in one fungicide and insect spray until they start budding then go with the Green Cure upon budding.
Also it sounds like from your experience you can use your grow site again. Thanks much just the type of real life experience I was looking for.

Cannasseur
I have read that same article and much thanks for posting it. To highlight a few things disease free seed was not a problem for me it was all new seed and just cleaning up the ground around the plants wont get rid of it. This shit was on every single bit of native vegetation in my area trees, nettles, especially the grasses. Every year they die back and form the perfect breeding ground.

Wiklund
Good luck to you brother I hope you can harvest. It all depends on how hard it hits there is no cure for it just management. I recommend 3/4 dosage of green cure sprayed on the plants.

DS Toker
I read a million articles and many did point to "Liquid Copper" but not sure how safe this stuff is and where to get it. I hope it helps but unless I am wrong and I hope I am there is no cure just management. The spots will widen and leaves will fall but if you are close to harvest you could make it.
PLEASE update us on how it goes sounds like we are breaking new ground or at least shining a light on it.

Ok fellow Guerillas I will mention one last thing since they said no cure just management and because my GHS WW got hit so hard (large plants and leaves) I decided to try some more 20-20-20 to see if I could get new vegetative growth to replace old.

I wouldn’t have done this on early flowering varieties but the WW had only pre-flowers a week ago. I have no actual research that says this will work actually quite the opposite everything I read said to lay off the nitrogen because it attacks the new leaves the worst but i had nothing to loose. I will let you know in another week if this was worth the effort.

[Cannasseur]

I was reading an article on Bacillus subtillis and came across this...

According to an Agraquest sales representative, in the Serenade® product it is the lipopeptide activity that gives disease control. Any living B. subtilis cells in this product have only a minor effect (Cline 2004).

Edit:
From the sounds of things I would definitely recommend wearing some sort of PPE (personal protective equipment) when applying any sort of Copper based product.

Effect on human health:
Acute toxicity. The oral LD50 of copper sulfate is 472 mg/kg in rats. Toxic response in humans has been observed at 11 mg/kg. Ingestion of copper sulfate is often not toxic because vomiting is automatically triggered by its irritating effect on the gastrointestinal tract. Symptoms are severe, however, if copper sulfate is retained in the stomach, as in the unconscious victim. Injury to the brain, liver, kidneys, and stomach and intestinal linings may occur in copper sulfate poisoning. Copper sulfate can be corrosive to the skin and eyes. It is readily absorbed through the skin and can produce a burning pain, as well as the other symptoms of poisoning resulting from ingestion. Skin contact may result in itching or eczema. It is a skin sensitizer and can cause allergic reactions in some individuals. Eye contact with this material can cause conjunctivitis, inflammation of the eyelid lining, cornea tissue deterioration, and clouding of the cornea (Extoxnet 1996).

As far as persistence...

Copper will generally remain on leaf surfaces for 1-2 weeks, or until it is washed off by rain or overhead irrigation.

Lets stay safe here guys!

[Paddi]

In -09 I had leaf septoria. Well, it "only" attacked the leafs, but damn I hated to see those sick girls.

I havent done anything to solve the problem, but fortunately I havent seen it so far this year.
Well, I do take away all dead plant-materials - that is a must.
If you want to reuse dead plantmaterials, you have to make real compost where the material "burns".


I read about the sickness in the book you see here. Helpful book for outdoor-growers I would say.









































P

[biteme]

mr. hamstring made an important statement near the end of his post where he said "no cure, just management" which seems to be a problem with most of the organic sprays. i use serenade, green cure and another product called daconyl to take care of mold, mildew and assorted fungi and as a rule, the 3 sprays are alternated with each getting turns.

i never saw mold on a mj plant until about 6 years ago when global warming patterns moved in and since then all of my gardening methods are now in the flux of change. the big lesson i have learned is that most of these organics are of little use once you have the problem but they work great if you hit the plants early and hard and your interest is in prevention.

i am not sure what you were calling this attack, i will reread, but it sure looks like some nasty crud known as septoria leaf spot imo. if it is not a major outbreak, it usually just hurts yield and does not kill the plant. but you still want to get rid of it and often you may have to move your garden because it will winter in the soil.
peace-biteme

[hamstring]

Paddi
Sweet book and even better dedication. Yeah, that looks very helpful and it would have helped last year it took me a few weeks and someone here diagnosed it for me through a similar resource.

Only thing I can say that is a little wrong is that doesn’t only attack the bottom leaves it attacks every single leaf. The worst ones are the small ones near the flowers.

Thanks for sharing I think that will help many guerrillas in the future too bad that once you have diagnosed it its too late it has been infected for several months already. Like I said before give me mold any day at least I can treat it once I identify it.

Much appreciated this thread is to inform that’s why the title has “Leaf Spot” in it so it can be found using a search and your book will help all that make it to this thread in the future.

[Cannasseur]

Paddi, I have to say I will DEFINITELY be purchasing my own copy of that book..

Does it contain an excerpt on "Bacterial Leaf Spot" aswell?

[D.S. Toker. MD]

hamsting, im so new into flower on so many plants,(WW) i would basically be spraying only leaves. The buds really arent on the plant yet so they wouldnt have the stuff on them, but if i can take off the leaves that are infected and spray the healthy ones, im hoping to knock it back to the point that it doesnt decimate my yeild.

Since the stuff isnt systemic then everything should be alright. The local nursury,
( they carry it), told me that its safe to use on garden vegetables.

[LazLo]

Timely thread. Bummer no cure, only treatment. 1 Texada Timewarp had half the leaves dead or dying. Another TT was far less affected.

Glad I had the Greencure with me today when I visited site after a week. Sprayed all girls with it and liquid Sevin. Will take the fungicide next trip.

Would Mycostop have any effect?

Poor little girl missing her bottom leaves and just starting to flower


C99 unaffected so far



Paddi

Any chance a sticky could be made from those pages?