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Mite Eradictor (also destroys Powdery Mildew)

G

Guest

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=270864#post270864

For those not liking links, here's the basic text:
This kills 'em and the eggs:

http://oregongreenfree.com/forums/i...?showtopic=8038

"So far one formula has come out ahead and there are some instruction changes:

1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts

Take a cup of very hot water and desolve the epsom salts,take rest of ingredients and place in a clean 2 liter bottle and let work out. Add epsom solution. Add water to fill to 48ozs(3/4 full).Shake well.

TO USE: Cover soil/medium with plastic,with lights off mist plant all over,especialy under leaves,
Wait 20 mins,then spritz off with clean fresh water shaking as much water off plant as you can.
The fresh water spritz rinse will remove the solution along with the desolved remains of the mites and their eggs.

Have fun with your new "Mite Eradicator"

Note by MrFixit: Water plants 1/2 hour before spraying. This will help keep your plants from absorbing the spray.

This solution has been tested and used as directed will not burn plants,the rinse is very important though as it removes the spent solution before it can concentrate and burn the plant. It also removes most of the dead mites and eggs so you don't end up smoking them.

The formula can be diluted further,to 1 liter and it will still kill the mites but isn't as effective at dissolving and removing the mite parts.
Since removing the mite debris is desirable,I recommend the stronger solution,just remember to rinse and shake.
This formula is alkaline(about 7.8-8) so please remember to rinse.

Mite irradication is absolutely assured and guaranteed if used as directed.
I've never seen ANYTHING work this well for mite irradication!!
I used to gas my booths for mites,it worked but they came back,I haven't seen a living mite in a long time now.They haven't come back,partly because of cooler weather,partly because I hosed the Roses that were infecting everything with the formula and wiped out all the mites during testing.
The only thing I wish I'd done different is,I wish I would have done sections of the Roses and preserved
some of the mites for later tests.I've had to go searching for victims to test it on and there just aren't any left!! I did find some victims for my final tests in the park where we have meetings,the plants by the river are pretty sickly and infested(were I should say,I walked around with ONE pint bottle and cleaned up most of the area.LOL)
If news of this formula were to become widespread,mites would become an endangered species!!!So GOOD HUNTING !
Seasider"


"PM'd BankRobber and he told me to post this:
I have been experimenting with similar formulas, so far 2 work.
Trial #1: 1/2 cup baking soda , 1 cup vinegar , 1/2 cup apple juice. Dilute to 2 liters.

Trial #2 1/2 cup baking soda , 1 cup vinegar , 3 tablespoons lemon juice , 2 drops dish soap .
Dilute to 40 fluid oz's.

I've tried this on: Wandering Jew,Spider Plant,Fushias,Gladiolis,Roses,Sweet Elysium,Clovers,Daisy,
Rhodadendron, Lawn(grass)
So far it works,both formulas. #2 works best outside and best overall
It has killed any small insects I've tried it on except FLEAS(Darn it!)
So far its killed mites,thrips(Adult),aphids,clover mites, whatever mite type insects that were all over the Gladiolis and it sickened and effected Grass Gnats and mosquitoes.(the mist knocked them down,couldn't find them in the grass to watch if they died but they were having difficulty flying)
I'm waiting for long term effects on the plants I've sprayed,before I'll try it on my plants.
Try mixing up some and try it outside on whatever you can find with an infestation.
The original recipe from a Landscape gardener was: 1/2 cup baking soda, 1 cup vinegar,2cups apple peels.
Blend/Puree , filter , dilute to 2 liters. I haven't tried this one yet (no apple peels).
The trick seems to be 1/2 cup Baking soda to 1 cup vinegar,diluted to approximately 2 liters.
The dishsoap helps wetting & the juices boost effect. #2 seems to help with molds/fungus also.It reduced blackspot on Roses,Gladiolis and Rhodi's and white mold on Roses.( The coast is a perfect proving ground for this stuff!!! We have ALL the bugs and molds !!! I don't have to go far to find infestations of all kinds.)
Seasider"

"REPORT:
For 2 days I have hosed my backyard with this stuff,so far it has reduced blackspot & powdery mildew(white mold),killed all the small insects(size seems to matter on kill,gnats or smaller).
The only plants adversely affected so far are FERNS (they don't like it much,wilted some).
The fleas seem unaffected as are the garden spiders,wood lice,beetles and other large hard insects.
I'm using it far more than necessary to see if it hurts the plants. Repeating doses even after the bugs are dead. The gladiolis were REALY bad with blackspot mold and some kind of black sucker insects about the size of a pinhead.The Glads are doing fine both mold and insects gone! The wandering jew and spider plants are actualy perking up from it.The clover mites? WIPED OUT! Rose mites? WIPED OUT! Grass gnats and mosquitoes? VASTLY REDUCED! Scale insects? DEAD! Aphids?DEAD![THE GARDEN??? (smells like a "Caeser Salad" ! ) ALIVE.]
Seasider "

"Hey Everyone,

I think Seasider is onto something and that's it so cool to see people taking action and experimenting with organic ingredients!
I'm certainly going to try his formula!

It cost me over $300 to manufacture what I came up with, and that dose not include all the labor and the over two weeks it take to complete each batch!
Seasider's stuff is a fraction of the cost, and I can't see any adverse reactions from the ingredients mentioned.
Except for invertebrates "the soap" would kill them, but then we don't need it in our fish tank now do we?

A key test will be to see if any eggs rehatch or if the plants are reinvested, however respraying with an inexpensive home made product may be worth it to so many!
I say GREAT job & keep up the good fight!

Please keep us informed of your test. and results!

BankRobber!"

"Report:
There seems to be some mild burning where the solution was left on and collected/concentrated.
I would recommend using the 2 liter dilution and spritzing with fresh water afterward and shaking off as much as possible so the formula doesn't collect and concentrate itself to the point it burns tender leaves.
I didn't notice any damage except where it had concentrated and dried,so spritzing and shaking off should do the trick.As far as effectiveness goes,wow! The death and destruction it deals to mites is impressive !!
Popping browning eggs melting,imploding adults,body parts and debris slowly dissolving......
EXTREMELY GRATIFYING !!!
TRY IT YOU'LL LIKE IT !!
The BORG rule ,of mite terror, is OVER !!!!

WARNING !!
A member had severe burning that he attributes to residues drawn out of the container by the vinegar.
USE A CLEAN CONTAINER !! Do not use realy strong vinegar or any with SULFITES in it.
NO SULFITES"

BOTTOM LINE IS IT WORKS AND THEY DON'T COME BACK



This is a duplicate post in response to a thread, I wanted the info out front for more exposure.
 
Last edited:

Sleepy

Active member
Veteran
excellent, 1toke!!

excellent, 1toke!!

thanks for posting this!!

Death to the borg! :bat:
 

Verite

My little pony.. my little pony
Veteran
1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts

Shake and pour over ice, garnish with a slice of lime and serve.

apricot_babe.jpg
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

Verite said:
Shake and pour over ice, garnish with a slice of lime and serve.

apricot_babe.jpg
:biglaugh: I'll take that with a grain of Epsom salt! :biglaugh:

Seriously (gasp) I've eliminated all signs of borgs or PM, but a few clones and new growth on some suffered. To understand how and why this mix works I had to get a grasp on what happens when a vinegar+baking soda reaction occurs:

Acid/base neutralization:
HC2H3O2 (acetic acid) + HCO3- (bicarbonate ion) ----> H
H2CO3 (carbonic acid) + C2H3O2- (acetate ion)
H2CO3 -----> H2O + CO2
The foaming is the liberation of CO2 gas when carbonic acid dissociates.
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem99/chem99183.htm

My thinking is the carbonic acid if not dissociated yet may be too strong on new and tender growth (clones, seedlings, sprouts). Small trade-off if the infestation is advanced. The plant isn't harmed and recovers with healthy new growth (which would not be there if infested with mites). So, is this mix effective only as long as there is carbonation? This would explain the limited shelf life, it should be prepared and used immediately for the best results. When the pop goes flat we need a new batch.

Now I have to figure out what sodium acetate does to the mites, or its' contribution to the whole. Of particular interest is imploding the adult mites and exploding the eggs.
 
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G

Guest

het this needs to ba a sticky topic, any mods out there that can help?
 
G

Guest

Great post. please keep us updated on your testing, of it on other plants, So be sticky post.
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
soulmate said:
Great post. please keep us updated on your testing, of it on other plants, So be sticky post.


it works...... i use it and iso 70%.....


use 1tokes mite irradication
then for the rinse i use iso it melts webbing & eggs befor your eye's and drops mites to the floor & the iso ends up evaperating leaving very lil water the iso can be used with lights on i have not tryed the irradicadicatoin with lights on thx cj
 
G

Guest

soulmate said:
Great post. please keep us updated on your testing, of it on other plants, So be sticky post.

Hey soulmate. All of my testing has been 100% successful on mites, Powdery Mildew returns in tiny spots sometimes until I made sure I got ALL the plant parts, the mix was intended for the borgs - the fact that it destroys or eliminates more is a bonus. Have been pest free since I treated last Thanksgiving.

We can't stress the importance of following the directions to the letter. I got mixed responces that are attributed to slacking and panic, caused by mixing or treating haphazardly. Some poor results may rely on the severity of your infection IMO. Some grows may be beyond help of mixes and the only cure short of nukin' them may be the sulphur attack. Call in an air strike and start over. :yoinks:

Note by MrFixit: Water plants 1/2 hour before spraying. This will help keep your plants from absorbing the spray.

This solution has been tested and used as directed will not burn plants,the rinse is very important though as it removes the spent solution before it can concentrate and burn the plant. It also removes most of the dead mites and eggs so you don't end up smoking them.


"Report:
There seems to be some mild burning where the solution was left on and collected/concentrated.

I would recommend using the 2 liter dilution and spritzing with fresh water afterward and shaking off as much as possible so the formula doesn't collect and concentrate itself to the point it burns tender leaves.
I didn't notice any damage except where it had concentrated and dried,so spritzing and shaking off should do the trick.

WARNING !!
A member had severe burning that he attributes to residues drawn out of the container by the vinegar.
USE A CLEAN CONTAINER !! Do not use realy strong vinegar or any with SULFITES in it.
NO SULFITES"
 

aeric

Active member
Veteran
Oh if only I had this recipe last summer! If i see another borg or thrip ever again this will be the first thing to try. The vinegar/soda reaction alone sounds effective, but then the addition of soap etc...sounds good!
 
G

Guest

00420 said:
it works...... i use it and iso 70%.....


use 1tokes mite irradication
then for the rinse i use iso it melts webbing & eggs befor your eye's and drops mites to the floor & the iso ends up evaperating leaving very lil water the iso can be used with lights on i have not tryed the irradicadicatoin with lights on thx cj

always happy to help bro, lord knows you help me anytime i need it :)
happy you found your groove with it and winnin the fight:smoke:

maybe i should put a brief how-to on isopropyl alch. as a pesticide/miticide/organicide in my profile homepage:chin: seems many are usin it now with success, and i'm happy to see your problems dissipating.

if i break out again, i'm usin the 1toke mite eradicator on eggs, and my iso TEK on anything moving/webbing. (i spot-treat currently with iso under light also, and bon-neem the soil surface/foliage every 2 weeks or so as a preventative measure.

the iso kills on contact, the 1toke way explodes the eggs, it's gonna be cool to see these fuckers pop hehe, 1toke, should i wear protective eyewear :? :biglaugh:
5538KonaGoldDay25-thumb.JPG

be well
 
G

Guest

1toke did u lower the humidity for just let your tonic handle its own?
 

aeric

Active member
Veteran
Speaking of ISO...I've found alcohol is good for excess salts, algae and mold on top of your medium.
 
G

Guest

aeric said:
Speaking of ISO...I've found alcohol is good for excess salts, algae and mold on top of your medium.

iii CAVEAT EMPTOR !!!

I do not condone this (for the average user at least)
b/c isopropyl alchohol DRIES OUT plant tissue / roots / your skin
and if the medium is penetrated (save the jokes,Verite) ,
your roots will suffer, plants may stunt due to damage of microscopic root tips/hairs.
IMO it's just a bad idea. period.

keep it foliar.

be well

icm's #1 iso. promoter,
cj
 

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