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Old 08-12-2010, 07:00 AM #51
Sparky 6
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Thanks stickey fingers- I did manage to find directions. And I hear you on the rest- I'll probably use predatory mites from now on but this is my first dance with this thing and I reacted quickly and harshly.
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Old 08-12-2010, 07:31 AM #52
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1-3ml a gallon
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:37 PM #53
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i'm not positive but if i remember correctly its 4-6 drops per 32 oz bottle.... don't quote me on that though. I think its 4-8oz per 100 gallons said on the package.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:05 AM #54
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Thanks guys- the stuff worked wonderfully! No more mites here!
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:29 AM #55
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Two things comes to mind with spidermites....there goes my harvest and how do I fix the problem.

In no way will I dump a pile of crap...(unless it's real) on my plants....I'm talking man made miracle fixes, like ddt or agent orange in the extreme.

These lil buggers are the most persistent bud enemy other than rippers and leos I ever had the pleasure of trying to deal with.

I have had many harvests over the last 30 plus years and from trial and error, my advice has three "Must-do's"

1, Buy lady bugs and introduce them in your indoor grow, they gobble up spidermites faster than they can reproduce. In the warmth of lighting the mites will cluster in gobs on the topmost portions of your plants, you can easily pinch most out with several visits daily to your infested grow, the ladybugs will finish the rest off while you are away.

2, After a total plant vacancy of at least 3 months and a complete housecleaning of your grow, begin from seedstock set aside for that purpose.

3, Never enter your grow after being at another....stay absolutely clear or you will reintroduce them. No observers should be allowed in either as they may bring unwanted hitch hikers along.


As has been stated within earlier postings, housekeeping is everything. Read up on what environments spidermites thrive in and make your grow as undesirable for them as possible.


Good luck.

In a worst case scenario move your grow elsewhere starting from scratch.....seed saving comes to mind.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:40 PM #56
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Wow. Lots of great info in this thread. I'm on my way to buy some predatory insects!

I've used Dr. Doom several times and it does a good job of knocking them down, but it's not a final solution.

I've been controlling them with a product called "BANG!". Apparently it's all natural and seems to keep them at bay. but they are still around.

has anyone else used BANG! ? Any negative effects i should be aware of? they never print it on the label...haha..

thanks!
CnD.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:46 PM #57
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Pay attention to Floramite direction and you'll find that it works better at a PH below 6. The floramite degrades quickly in the higher PH. Been told PH to 5.5..... You can mix the floramite with azamax and spray both at the same time.

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Old 08-27-2010, 11:31 PM #58
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so i got a case of the little bastards on a flowering girl that's 4 weeks in
probably another 5 weeks to go, was hoping to try pyrenthrins but the prep i can buy has canola oil
i did see the warning about canola oil giving a bad flavor used at this time, so i'm scratching my head
i would think the insecticidal soap wouldn't taste too good this late either
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:11 PM #59
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Doktor Doom bombs suck, that has been my experience.
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:59 AM #60
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Was given some badly infected clones. First I tried dipping them avid, did it twice. It was almost like I did nothing to them, they just exploded. So last night I sprayed with floramite today I don't see a single one living. So i'll give the surrounding area a little spray as well to make sure it gets them all.
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