[macumba]

thanks folks

[green planet]

An approach for a Mite infestation with the aim of control. (I don't believe a total elimination is possible nor infact if necessary)
When faced with a mite infestation the following factors need to be considered in order to determine what control method should be used. Identification of the type mite infestation, the type of environment you growing in, what control methods are available and which are best suited for your growing purposes.

For example.
Growing organically, indoors at a temp of +- 27 to 30deg Celsius, humidity between 60 and 99% (on and off cycle.) I have identified spider mites, broad mite with small populations of thrips.

Control methods
Chemical (Not an option)
Natural “organic” sprays (I have tried several of these ie. Neem oil, Syringa and Fish hydrolosate and foliar spray) with the following result in high temperatures. Definite decrease in mites but the oil forms a “hard” layer over the leaf, clogging the stomata) Plant growth stunts due to biological dysfunctional systems. No choice at all for me. Opting for a biological control method, I have compared what predator mites will best perform in my growing environment. I have chosen to compare Persimilis, Californicus and Swirski for this purpose reaching the following conclusion. (See below for information on which I have based my conclusion)

Conclusion
On observation of broad mites and spider mites: immediately introduce Swirski and Califronicus. Apply over infested areas, regularly, over the full cycle of your mite infestation. (Continually observing your plants) Between these predators you have a effective mite control between 25 and 33deg Celcius) and high humidities between 55% and 99%. However, it seems that Swirski is less effective than Califronicus, when humidity is less than 70%. Persimilis, in the environment that I have outlaid, is not suited due to high temperatures and its feeding behavior.

You can, where possible, adjust your growing environment to address habitat conditions for the predator mites that you have introduced, in context of the conditions required for growing your plants.

I have enclosed some short notes on which I have based my conclusions. I have also referred to internet sources. (Knowing and recognizing the biology of glasshouse pest and their natural enemies - M H Malais – W J Ravensberg)

Persimilis
Population growth
20degr C, female Persimilis mite lays more eggs than female spider mite. The predator population contains more females. Population of predator out performs its prey. Above 30 deg C persimilis cannot control spider mite populations.
Relative humidity lower than 60% adverse effect on populating growth and therefore Persimilis does not perform well under dry warm conditions
Feeding behavior
If temperature increases, consumption of prey increases, but above 30 and at 35 deg c, feeding stops.
Optimal temperature for controlling spider mites is between 15 and 25 degrees c
Persimilis is mostly dependant on Spider Mites but turn can become cannibalistic and population will decline dramatically. Therefore you will have to reintroduce with each out break of spider mite.
Californicus
Population growth
Increases with temperature and can still develop healthy at 33deg C.
At 10deg C and relative humidity of less than 60 % negative effect on californicus populations. The adverse effect of low humidities is weaker than in Persimilis.
Feeding:
Consumes less prey than persimilis at high density of spider mites, but at lower spider mite densities consumes more. Absence of spider mites, californicus can survive on thirps, moulds, nectar, broad mites and survives without food for some time.
Swirskii
Population growth
Feeding: Thrips, white fly, spider mites, broad mites. If sufficient food, they grow very quickly from 10 to an average of 600 predatory mites per plant over 3 weeks. Found throughout plant. Warm humid conditions. Critical RH about 70% around microclimate of leaf surface less than 70% mites will not hatch.
Optimal conditions 25 and 28 deg Celsius.
Predatory mites do not go dormant in response to shorter days and lower temperatures (less than 12hours of light) Below 15 degrees Celsius inactive.
Many ways to release predators. Shakers are immediate and easily applied, while slow release bags are more labour intensive to distribute and should not be watered. It was suggested to me to rather purchase shakers as required as this will serve the same purpose as the bags.

[sith44]

Thanks for the info!!

[olderthanbefore]

My very effective and cheap remedy to spider mites just discovered that killed all adults within 30 minutes, and I think will also kill or keep the eggs from hatching. I'm watching very closely.
Ratio based on one gallon of water:
2% pure 100% Rosemary Oil
2 tablespoons Mrs. Meyers dish soap that contains ingredients of natural essential oils as follows:
Hydrogenated Castor oil
Glycerin
Rosemary leaf oil
Peppermint oil
Sweet Almond oil
Orange peel oil
Lavender oil
Eucalyptus oil
Ginger root oil
Sandalwood seed oil
Patchouli oil
Sandalwood seed oil and a few more oils and ingredients. All are all natural and not in one way harmful to plants.

Rosemary oil cost is about $5.00 per 30mil bottle. Less if bought in larger quantities.
Mrs. Meyers dish soap $3.99 per 16oz bottle.
I sprayed every part of 600 clones including the tables. The plants seemed to love it. The room smells very nice too. I think this recipe will work all the way to the last day of 12/12 but use less soap if none completely.

[baccas]

Buy a small container of floramite off of ebay for 20 dollars.

[baccas]

Also look into getting some sturrip M its a spider mite phermone that atracts the mites right to the spray

[eric2028]

I usually don't have spidermites. a recent outbreak of them in late flower prompted me to try a new technique(atleast new to me). sorry if im just repeating old info to u guys. I got out my old vacuum(with a good filter) and removed most adults and all of the few webs I seen. seemed to be very effective, although it didn't remove the eggs it will buy me another week for my larry girls to finish. better then spraying this late imo. good luck!

[TanzanianMagic]

Originally Posted by eric2028

I usually don't have spidermites. a recent outbreak of them in late flower prompted me to try a new technique(atleast new to me). sorry if im just repeating old info to u guys. I got out my old vacuum(with a good filter) and removed most adults and all of the few webs I seen. seemed to be very effective, although it didn't remove the eggs it will buy me another week for my larry girls to finish. better then spraying this late imo. good luck!

Here's an idea - if you have too many insects, you have too few bacteria and fungi. Worm compost tea will take care of nearly all of them, and the ones that are left will have to compete with the bacteria.

[medman225]

if your looking for floramite or avid or 4bid and google seems to be the option, but you don't want to wait, these are all available legally from grow shops in the places where these are illegal(California).

[umm.iforgot]

For me, these guys are like the white walkers from the game of thrones. Just when you think they are gone, they come back. In veg I spray with neem oil and fog with dr doom. During flower I spray with azamax and fog with dr doom. I don't drench during flower, don't want moldy nugs. I've never had a major infestation. I keep them at bay and I am always scouting for their next strike. Just got into the tea foliar, so far very pleased. I foliar twice a week once with neem or aza and the second time with tea.