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Old 04-29-2010, 04:25 PM #1
jess_storm
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SWITCHING FROM CHEM TO ORGANIC HYDRO NUTES: THE ULTRA FAQ

After reading through a number of threads on different organic hydro lines, it seems that there are a number of basic issues that growers will encounter when switching from a primarily chemical nutrient hydro line to a primarily organic one.

I'm hoping we can create a thread that possibly ends up as a sticky, listing these issues . . . and some basic info for each of them. Here's something like what I was envisioning:
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SWITCHING FROM CHEM TO ORGANIC HYDRO: THE ULTRA FAQ

TDS/EC: Most organic hydro lines, even at full strength, will usually register far lower on your EC/TDS meter. This is because (short answer here). To address this, (short answer here).

STERILITY: Organic lines aren't sterile, like most chem hydro lines. So, you'll need to get educated about good/bad bacteria. Here is a link to help with this: (fill in link here). Or here are the basic things to know about using sterile vs. non-sterile solutions: (insert info here)
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If the thread bombs, so be it. :-) But I'm hoping it doesn't, particularly because of the increasing number of growers interested in switching.

TIA for any contributions!

~jessie

Last edited by jess_storm; 04-29-2010 at 04:30 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-06-2010, 05:24 AM #2
10k
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Not sure where you're going with this but, here goes...

RULE NUMBER 1

Never switch plants from chem hydro salts to organic hydro formulations !
Doing so is opening the door to several problems in hydro grows.

Nothing wrong with running organics if it's done right btw.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:26 AM #3
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RULE NUMBER 2

If you switch plants from chem hydro salts to organic formulations, be sure to pre-light-proof your reservoir. Reservoirs for sterile hydro solutions can have all sorts of light leaks, and algae may never be a worry.

But, and this important, the moment you switch to non-sterile nutes you'll be blown away by the aggressive nature of algae -- it can take over a reservoir in less than 48 hours -- completely.

In sum, for organic hydro, be fastidious in light-proofing your reservoir.
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:40 PM #4
10k
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RULE NUMBER 3

(see rule number 1)


heh heh
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Old 05-06-2010, 12:59 PM #5
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:45 PM #6
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RULE NUMBER 4

Sterile chemical fertilizers (GH Flora/Micro/Grow, for example) have specific nutrients only, and those nutrients are added in a relatively accurate PPM. Organic hydro nutrients also contain those specific nutrients, but ALSO contain dozens (if not hundreds) of trace elements whose affects on plant growth aren't fully understood yet -- if understood at all.

For example, low molecular size humic substances has an effect on nitrate uptake, but to what degree, in what PPM, on what specific plants? And then what about salicylic acid, copper, boron, selenium, chlorine (in very low PPM), nitrates, heavy metal chloride, Vitamin C, lead, zinc, etc. etc.

In sum: hydro nutrients from organic substances (kelp, guano, worm castings, etc) will certainly contain a much, much broader range of elements that may have a beneficial effect on plants.

As long as you meet the base nutrient requirements using organic nutes, you are almost guaranteed some additional benefits on plant growth through the vast range of trace elements found in organic sources.
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:58 AM #7
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I won't even tuch another "Organic" nute unless it's OMRI rated.. .. Issue 1 series 6 of skunk mag in rev's tips has a great spred on soup style organic hydro...
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Old 05-14-2010, 08:28 PM #8
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plus you need to create a bio-culture for all these organic bacteria you'll be adding .... its not as simple as chucking it in your tank and watching it go ..
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:51 AM #9
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Anyone know of any other brands of sterile chemical nutrients besides GH?
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:01 PM #10
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