[MeJuana]

There's a problem with my theory here.. If your plants stall and the metabolism drops, and your plants are sitting at 90F. This could spell disaster.. Back to the drawing board.

Best way to cure powdery mildew is a combination of everything already mentioned.

1. RH% 40-50
2. Temps 75F-80F
3. Now you have to kill the visible Mildew. Apply any antifungicide you are willing to buy and spray on your plants. Omri product during flowering and what ever you like during veg. Do during lights off
4. Now it is time to addBeneficial bacteria make a mixture of milk and water (butter milk works best) 1 part milk to 2 part water is fine 1 part milk and 10 part water is fine but you will likely have to spary with this mixture a few times. Do during lights off

Thats it ! it is simple as long as you do all this. remeber to take a 24 hour break between steps 3 and 4. After doing step 4 you will notice milk dry milk stains on your leafs that is fine let it sit there it will flake away.

Does having the exhaust running 24/7 witha hepa filter on the intake reduce the chance of mildew?

[superpedro]

Just want to mention - again - UV-C treatments has proved to be far better than any fungicide to prevent mildew from spreading in the Danish professional greenhouse industry.

[SGMeds]

Originally Posted by superpedro

Just want to mention - again - UV-C treatments has proved to be far better than any fungicide to prevent mildew from spreading in the Danish professional greenhouse industry.

I've looked into these... there is a company in Cali that can make them specific to entry vestibules and/or tie them in w the air intake.

Pretty cool stuff... so long as you avoid exposure.

Originally Posted by mrred

Does having the exhaust running 24/7 witha hepa filter on the intake reduce the chance of mildew?

Found that the first hour after the lights go out is when the RH wants to spike... temp drops contributing here. I run mine 24/7 which keeps the exchange high & the spikes lower.

Overall, if you start w healthy plants & run the environment well, e.g., don't crowd em & exchange the air, then all works wonderfully well... no carcinogenic sprays, no REI's, no lying to the end user...

[SKUNK420]

I've developed a new theory or idea about powder mildew. For the last year I've battled PM one cycle clean, then next crop covered in PM and so on.... After my last PM crop I went on a room cleaning rampage: bleached everything, hepa filtered vacuumed eveything, bleached, painted, bleached etc. The A/C and dehumidiyfiers were hell to clean. That handled the room and gear. During the same time I was continously spraying my next batch of vegging clone with azamax, DM zone/pene & grotech/pene, Greenscure. A different spray everyday. What I noticed is after a week or two ( I pre-veg for about 2wks then high power 2wks) The leafs were developing a oily shean on the leaf surfaces from the repeated applications of azamax some mixes were heavier than others 15ml@32oz. max. All went well during veg no sign of PM.

I found spider mites on my plants a couple days after flipping to 12hrs. So I took a chance and raised my humidty to 60% d&n to help slow down the spider mite birth rates. I still sprayed azamax and my other sprays until buds formed 14 to 20 days. I got some floramite to handle the SM's so far so good. They not all dead but then again I didn't spray the hell out of them because I'm in flowering and everybody knows it sucks to spary that crap in flowering.
Well now I have been running my room at 60% humidity and low 80's lites on and no sign of powder mildew. Also I know for sure the increase in humidity is having positive affect on bud growth on the SM part who knows. I've read a lot of articles on PM. PM is everywhere just floating in the air etc.... So with that being the case as long as your plants are "treated" even if your humidity is on the high side 60% or so the PM should hopfully not be able to grow because the plants have been "treated". I still believe you must be a clean as possible and control your environmental conditions as perfect as possible to prevent having the ideal conditions for PM to take root and reproduce, but we are never perfect so "treating" plants is the next best thing.`I'll be get some eagle 20 soon to use in veg but will still do the azamax sprays.

When I can budget about $500+ to uv-c lighting I'll be adding it to my a/c, dehuy, carbon scrubber. I hate wasting electricity on support gear.

I've also read that PM spores can be killed at temps around 120+ degrees. Good for between crop cleanings or certain gear.

[medthumb]

Originally Posted by bonjourbonjour

Best way to cure powdery mildew is a combination of everything already mentioned.

1. RH% 40-50
2. Temps 75F-80F
3. Now you have to kill the visible Mildew. Apply any antifungicide you are willing to buy and spray on your plants. Omri product during flowering and what ever you like during veg. Do during lights off
4. Now it is time to addBeneficial bacteria make a mixture of milk and water (butter milk works best) 1 part milk to 2 part water is fine 1 part milk and 10 part water is fine but you will likely have to spary with this mixture a few times. Do during lights off

Thats it ! it is simple as long as you do all this. remeber to take a 24 hour break between steps 3 and 4. After doing step 4 you will notice milk dry milk stains on your leafs that is fine let it sit there it will flake away.

ive noticed everything says RH between 40 and 50. i have small closet grow and recently included a dehumidifier to battle the PM. ive been running it constantly to keep the humidity as low as possible, which is usually between 20 nad 30 percent. does having my humidity this low allow more PM than at between 40 and 50? im willing to sacrifice some bud growth due to low humidity in order to eliminate the pm problems. im just hoping im not making the PM worse by having the RH on the very low end.... any thoughts are very much appreciated

Originally Posted by medthumb

ive noticed everything says RH between 40 and 50. i have small closet grow and recently included a dehumidifier to battle the PM. ive been running it constantly to keep the humidity as low as possible, which is usually between 20 nad 30 percent. does having my humidity this low allow more PM than at between 40 and 50? im willing to sacrifice some bud growth due to low humidity in order to eliminate the pm problems. im just hoping im not making the PM worse by having the RH on the very low end.... any thoughts are very much appreciated

Will you do not want to drop it soo low that you stress your plants. So if you can set your dehumidifier to 40% then that would be perfect keep it at a constant level.

Your going to have to kill the mildew first with fungicide. Depending how far in flower you are will determine the strength of the fungicide you buy. Take a few days of giving fungicide treatments untill all visible mildew is gone from the base of the plant from the under leaves right to the brand new growth tips.

If you can get your hands on a sulphur burner give some treatments of that. After killing all visible mildew and using the burner to disinfect the room make sure your dial in your temps.

Remember temp fluctuation from day and night also attributes to PM

Good Luck!

[Herborizer]

My last grow I kept my RH around 30. I had PM everywhere. I held it back with the milk spray treatments, but its annoying because you have to reapply every 4-5 days. Saved my grow though!

I don't believe that humidity is as much of a factor as many believe, for battling PM. Also, I have found that low humidity causes major plant stress. You lose lots of yield with too low RH.

Personally, next run I will be using Eagle 20 once in veg, and once on the first week of flower. Also, I will be applying Neem once every 2 weeks until there are visible bud growth. The neem will be used to prevent the bugs and to keep the PM from ever having a chance.

[Airone6120]

Can PM/Budrot be prevented outdoos?