[wolfeman]

......

[Grat3fulh3ad]

Physan 20.

Wash everything in your grow with properly diluted Physan. Walls, pots, lamp hoods, floor, every surface. With half strength Physan wash the leaves of every plant that is not flowering, and rinse after a few hours, repeat the leaf wash after one week. If you have plants in flower, I would not physan them... quarantine them if possible, if not possible you may need to treat them with some other method to prevent re-contamination.

since I used Physan on the leaves, and have been using Physan to clean the surfaces of my garden space and my garden tools I have had no mildew or rot problems at all.

[MrHiRollller]

Here is a couple of pics. I spotted this white powder on the leaves. I think its mold, please help. There are other strains in the box that are clean with no white powder so far.

Info
Strain--Rocklock
week 4 of vegging
Soil grow
Ph--6.5
Temp--64-78 degrees
Humidity--65%
Tent--3 1/2 ft by 3 1/2 ft by 7 ft
Light--HPS 400 watts
Nutes--All Fox Farms
Fan--9 inch osolating fan

I am running a small heater to keep the temps up. The box is in my garage and at night the temps here are in the 20's.

[vicious bee]

Here's some info that may be very interesting to those reading this thread. I'm interested in boats and while reading about such there was a post by a Chemist on how to stop wood rot and fungus. Apparently ethylene glycol kills fungus in wood and even on people's bed sores. Here's the link and I'll post his summery. I don't suggest putting this on your plants but it might be good to sterilize the grow area.
https://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...oto=nextoldest
Dave Carnell
01-20-2006, 06:17 AM
I am the person who has most often promoted ethylene glycol antifreeze for curing fungal problems from wood rot to bed sores. I discovered the antifungal properties of ethylene glycol in connection with wood rot back around 1980. Later I translated the action to curing athletes foot and toenail fungus. I amazed my urologist by quickly curing the balanophosphitis on my penis with ethylene glycol as the alternative to his recommended circumcision in the early 1990s. In 1999, my beloved wife became bedridden and a complete invalid. After a while in bed she began to develop incipient bedsores. I spiked the ointment the caregivers were using with ethylene glycol. The sores disappeared, so I gave the caregivers a dropper bottle of ethylene glycol to use on the sores. When Eleanor died in 2002, the caregivers told me they had never seen anyone bedridden so long with such unblemished skin. Just last year, one of these ladies who still works for me had her 97-year old mother in hospice dying of cancer. When the old lady developed bed sores, Louise spiked the lotions the nurses were using with antifreeze. When the bed sores healed, the nurses and doctor were most interested in what she had done.

It is not unusual for chemicals to have a wide range of interactions. Because of strokes I have had, I regularly take a blood thinner to reduce the likelihood of clots and further strokes. The generic name of the thinner is warfarin. Warfarin was developed during WW II as a rat poison by the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation. It kills the rats by causing internal bleeding. My dose has to be carefully regulated, of course.

Back to wood. Nontoxic propylene glycol antifreeze is useless against rot and insects because it is nontoxic.

Ethylene glycol has properties very similar to water. It is extremely hygroscopic and is powerfully absorbed by wood so that it is not easily washed out. Apparently, only a low concentration is required to kill rot based on my observations of the sustained resistance of glycol-treated wood to rot in bilges regularly submerged.

Antifreeze will very quickly penetrate frozen wood. The best windshield deicer I know is about a 10% solution of ethylene glycol antifreeze in water. Applied to frozen wood, it will melt the ice, promptly penetrate the wood, and kill any rot organisms or boring insects.

There is a product called Boracar® for treating wood to prevent rot and insect attack. It is borates dissolved in ethylene glycol. It is getting a lot of its effectiveness from the ethylene glycol, though this cannot be claimed, as no one has EPA-registered EG as a fungicide and insecticide. On the other hand, research by Gougeon has shown that borate-treated wood gives weak joints with epoxy.

Ethylene glycol penetrates dry or wet wood as no other wood treatment does.

[superpedro]

I'm doing a little test in my grow thread if anyones interested. I would be happy if someone with an infested grow would like to do a test of the effect. I'm only able to test a healthy plant for the odd chance of any negative effects. But if you feel you got nothing to loose?
UV-C as mildew and mold protection, has been used to protect plants very easily infected at professional plant nurseries.
It has shown to be more effective protecting plants with a few seconds of UV-C light, than the ordinary chemical and biological treatments.
It cant heal plants, but stop an infection from spreading and protect from new attacks.

[vicious bee]

I bought one of those UV-C room filter sterilizers for that purpose. Didn't think about directly shining the light on the plant. Do you have a link that explains how the nurseries are set up?

[grapeman]

I find that since I've been using EWC teas as a foliar once a week, it helps PREVENT mildew from taking hold in the room. That coupled with keeping tabs on my humidity levels and keeping a clean room, I haven't seen the Mildew for a year.

But, I have been fighting mildew for over 40 years on other crops and I am very well versed on eradication of this problem. I have been used as an established expert witness on mildew damage, control and containment.

What I do if I sense or see any mildew in the clone/veg room is spray with Elite (Bayer Pharma). It is a Sterol Inhibitor (prevents mildew from planting it's foot onto the green tissue of the plant. It is systemic and works for 21 days or so. It takes certification to purchase at the Ag Chemical supply store. but I'm sure one could find it on-line. Elite is one of the older chemicals (10 years maybe? but these plants tolerate it very well with no ill effects) and in high pressure situations, one should always rotate their preventative products to avoid a strain of mildew building a tolerance to one product. Serenade mentioned above is a good product and I have used it many times on this crop and others. Also, a newer product called Metaltox (I think sp) is a newer product for "greenhouse' applications for flowers and vegetables. Not for sale in the US. I have some ordered from my good friends in Mexico as I like to have these things on the shelf just in case.

To sum up. Clean room, monitor humidity, good air movement, EWC Teas (wet entire plant and under the leaves) and have your standby "industrial strength" product on the shelf to kill it when you see some mildew BEFORE it becomes a problem.

But the use of EWC (ACT) tea has the Elite and other products on the shelf for the time being. BTW, the USDA published a paper showing that properly brewed EWC Tea helps prevent powdery mildew and Botrytis. With all the added benefits of EWC tea, the prevention of disease is just a minor plus. Also, Water with a non-ionic spreader (soap) will kill mildew, but will not prevent it's return if spore pressure is high.

BTW - to the person who mentioned chimeras's mildew thread. Chimera is mis-informed about mildew and how it spreads and attacks the plant. He claims that mildew spreads within the plant which is complete bullshit and bad information. Mildew is spread via spores. Millions of them in a bad infection in a 10 x 20 grow room. Billions and trillions of spores outside if there is a mildew infestation on a farm nearby. In this case, you need a commercial product. I left his thread as when I tried to educate him he argued with me and i don't suffer fools well.

So I'm glad THIS is the Mildew Sticky.

[superpedro]

Originally Posted by vicious bee

I bought one of those UV-C room filter sterilizers for that purpose. Didn't think about directly shining the light on the plant. Do you have a link that explains how the nurseries are set up?

Text is in Danish, but a few good pictures of application in roses.
https://danskeprydplanter.dk/download.php?id=315

I'll try to find some pictures of the applications in cucumbers after Christmas, and I'll have better time for translation.

Merry X

[vicious bee]

Thanks

[Phillthy]

Originally Posted by BudZad7

Hi All!!Had mold like clockwork every 2 weeks and used everything for
mold and what not....then I started using Maxicrop liquid seaweed..from start to finish, and have not had a mold issue in over 2+ years.....knock on wood!
Go to Maxicrops website and read the info......good luck.....Peace!!!

DUDES USE MAXICROP SEAWEED PLEASE!!!! ALL THAT OTHER STUFF IS ONLY TEMPORARY FIXES!!! JUST GIVE IT A TRY<SPRAY IT
ON TOP AND UNDER LEAVES AND PUT IN THE ROOT ZONE WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE......PEACE!!!

this is the same basic ingredient in most of the silicon additives. this also has chlorine in it though.