[vapedg13]

Sulfur vapes are the easiets to use on large crops if your small time try www.greencure.net

I have tried milk/water, h202 and water, dutch master & penetrator, almost everything.... the pm always returns in about 4-5 days......Greencure keeps it at bay for about 10 days twice as long.

Pm is like herpes for weed....once you get it... you'll never be rid of it but you can controll it.






.............................. ..............heres how to make a homemade sulfur vape use a 60 watt bulb no larger or it will get to hot

[Che]

Green cure is the Cannabis Cultivators secret weapon, we all have Silverback to thank for that.

[fyahfohigha]

Dutch Master Zone with a little soap,(Penetrator instead of soap is better), and JMS stylet dunks are doing a great job at keeping the any and all PM spores/mites away, however, I still think blight/fungal virus is a big problem. New growth is green, healthy and abundant, however I continue to have dead foliage wilt, dry up to a crisp, and fall off of the bottom. It isn't horrible, but it does happen. I am deciding whether to flower them out hoping it isn't a complete loss, and that PM/mites don't show back up late into flower again. Or I was thinking of chopping them all up into clone , cleaning out EVERYTHING 100% and bombing the place, doing all the preventatives you can think of in every way to prevent it from coming back (mainly Dutch Dunks, Neem Soil, JMS Stylet oil foliar, and a few others as well. I have read that people where able to keep the PM form showing up when they repeat dunks all through veg, but I am scared it wont keep any possible blight/disease away from living in my cuts the whole way through and effecting them? Any advice or experience anyone?

[sarek]

Here is an interesting article on using fungicides on vegetables in greenhouses. Products labeled for use on vegetables are automatically safer than ornamental fungicides. That being said I am not sure of most of these producs. Read up on them, maybe some of these are pretty low toxicity asnd effective. This article is a starting point for further research....

Even tho this is for vegetables, cannabis more like tobacco cos you burn the plants, you dont eat the fruit

Remember to rotate so u dont develop resistance, even if its oil, sopay water, milk etc.

MUR06-110 - Evaluation of various reduced-risk products for management of powdery mildew in greenhouse cucumber, tomato and pepper
Project Lead

Raymond Cerkauskas - Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Objective

To identify and assess new reduced-risk materials for control of powdery mildew on greenhouse vegetables

Powdery mildew is a perennial problem of greenhouse cucumber, pepper, and tomato and can cause severe losses, if left unchecked. Environmental control of this disease is very limited and growers often depend on pesticides for control. Fungicides such as Sulphur, Nova (myclobutanil), and Milstop (potassium bicarbonate) are registered for control of powdery mildew on greenhouse vegetables. Sulphur is not often applied to the crop because of phytotoxicity, particularly during warm weather, and therefore growers have depended almost solely on Nova for control. However, since the registration of Nova several growers have reported decreased efficacy of this fungicide for control of powdery mildew.

In this project, a number of alternative reduced risk products were evaluated for their control of powdery mildew in greenhouse cucumber, pepper and tomato. Trials included water as well as Milstop and Nova as controls.

P. xanthii develops very quickly on cucumber leaf tissue in comparison to either pepper or tomato powdery mildew. Consequently, testing for efficacy of control of cucumber powdery mildew is a good indicator of likely success in control of pepper and tomato powdery mildews.

Lactosan, a fermented milk product, was not effective at 5% or 7.5% in controlling cucumber powdery mildew; however, the addition of surfactant (Agral 90) resulted in good control of powdery mildew. A somewhat similar observation was made with KBV when used with a surfactant. Yo-K-San, another milk product, with surfactant was somewhat effective, while Actinovate (Streptomyces lydicus) and Endofine (Clonostachys rosea) were not very effective in control of P. xanthii. The addition of a surfactant may contribute to enhanced efficacy of the latter two materials.

Quintec (quinoxyfen) was very effective at very low rates in our trials. Increasing rates of Quintec resulted in increasing the level of control of cucumber powdery mildew. Residual activity was considerably greater than 7 days.

Valent-10118, Procure (triflumizole fungicide), Pristine (pyraclostrobin + boscalid fungicide), and Prev-Am (citrus oil + borax) were effective in control of cucumber and pepper powdery mildew at the rates applied. Residual activity exceeded 7 days, the time by which a second application of Milstop (potassium bicarbonate) would need to be re-applied for control of cucumber powdery mildew.

Siliforce (SIO2, K2O: 2%, PEG 400: 46%) was intermediate in control of cucumber powdery mildew. CaCl2 + surfactant and K2HPO4 + surfactant, at the rates applied, were both only somewhat effective with CaCl2 + surfactant more effective than the latter. There was some phytotoxicity observed with K2HPO4 + surfactant after spray application. Residual activity of CaCl2 + surfactant and K2HPO4 + surfactant was less than that of the new fungicides such as Valent-10118, Procure, Pristine, and Prev-Am that were evaluated.

Results for control of pepper powdery mildew were similar to those for cucumber powdery mildew except CaCl2 + surfactant, K2HPO4 + surfactant, and lactosan + surfactant were only somewhat effective.

Results for control of tomato powdery mildew were less consistent than those for control of cucumber or pepper powdery mildew. Best control was achieved with Nova, Procure, Pristine, Quintec and Valent-10118. Some of the tomato powdery mildew trials need to be repeated.

Trials with Nova, Milstop, Sporodex (Pseudozyma flocculosa), ßitalicize Lactosan and Yo-K-San at several commercial greenhouse cucumber sites for control of powdery mildew were conducted. Milstop, Sporodex, Lactosan and Yo-K-San were as effective as Nova in control of cucumber powdery mildew over a 7 day period, however, more than double the number of spray applications were required to maintain similar control as that of the Nova treatment. Alternative reduced-risk materials, with a different chemistry and a different mode of action, are ideal and necessary to enable growers to practice rotation as a resistance management strategy.

[BudZad7]

Hi All!!Had mold like clockwork every 2 weeks and used everything for
mold and what not....then I started using Maxicrop liquid seaweed..from start to finish, and have not had a mold issue in over 2+ years.....knock on wood!
Go to Maxicrops website and read the info......good luck.....Peace!!!

DUDES USE MAXICROP SEAWEED PLEASE!!!! ALL THAT OTHER STUFF IS ONLY TEMPORARY FIXES!!! JUST GIVE IT A TRY<SPRAY IT
ON TOP AND UNDER LEAVES AND PUT IN THE ROOT ZONE WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE......PEACE!!!

[GetMedicated]

combination fungicide I recently purchased for dealing with PM. (and rust) called CLEVIS.

-----

MAXIMIZE PREVENTION AND CURATIVE CONTROL WHILE MINIMIZING
RESISTANCE WITH THIS NEW DUAL-ACTION SYSTEMIC FUNGICIDE.
CLEVIS PROVIDES BROAD-SPECTRUM CONTROL OF NUMEROUS DISEASES
IN TURF, ORNAMENTALS, APPLES, AND GRAPES.

Clevis is a pre-mixed formulation of myclobutanil, the active ingredient in Eagle® specialty fungicide, combined with mancozeb, the
active ingredient in Dithane® specialty fungicide. Test results demonstrate that Clevis provides very good to excellent preventative
and curative results on a wide range of diseases, often exceeding what one would expect from the combination of these two widely
used fungicides. Clevis provides control of key turf diseases including Brown Patch, Dollar Spot, Summer Patch, and Rust. Clevis is
also labeled for Scab, Powdery Mildew, Rust and 17 other ornamental diseases.
In addition, the combination of these active ingredients provides a reliable solution to fungicide resistance as the active
target pathogens utilize unrelated modes of action, virtually eliminating the resistance development.




product pdf https://www.supremeturfproducts.com/P...Reprint_1_.pdf

[SKUNK420]

What about using UV-C to sterilize the air during a grow. Then UV-C and heat, temps above 100 degrees between crops to sterilize the room and gear?
Also is it true that PM is dormant and just waits for the right conditions in order to reproduce or whatever the exact term is?

[canadiancracker]

if you use dutchmaster zp dips, wear gloves for the dips and wash yours plants the next day or after 2 days and wear gloves for this also. this will stop the bottom leaves from dying off. this happends because the ph on the leaves stays too high for too long and drys out the leaves. they become brittle and become susseptible to dieasease.

after dipping zp twice i see no pm 7 days since last dip.

i burned the shit outta my skin with the zp so WEAR GLOVES AND GOGGLES.
exzema and having to by cream shouldnt be added to your expenses.

CC

how'd the clevis work?

[wolfeman]

Hello all, I had a good amount of PM in my last crop so I am searching for some answers...

Coincidentally, I am in the process of tearing down my room and relocating to a different room in the house. So, now is a great time to eradicate the PM.

Questions:

I read somewhere that once PM is in a plant it is there forever. True? If so that means all the clones I've taken from it will have PM also? Should I kill them all and start over?

If I set up my new room with all equipment in there (no plants) and do a sulfur burn, is my room now sterile?

The last grow (my third) that produced the mold, I was running lower temps (75f or so) than the previous two. Humidity was around 50% Could this be the reason for the mold? My first two grows I was instructed by my "mentor" (who is no longer around) to keep the temps in the low to mid 90's F. I had no problems then and good yields. Did I just answer my own question? hehe

Is there anyway to treat my teens that came from the infected crop before putting them in the new room- or are they doomed?

My room is 10'x10' sealed. Co2 at 1450, 4x1000w air cooled from outside, ebb and flow using rockwool. Has an air conditioner and two fans to keep it all moving around. The reservoir is underneath the sealed room.

Assuming the RH was the problem, at what RH% can I be sure this doesn't happen again?

Thanks to those who respond. I think you can see my predicament and what I would like to achieve regarding a clean new grow space. Any other suggestions would be most appreciated!!