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Can we please make a Sticky for Powdery Mildew, Bud Rot, etc... Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-11-2012, 02:35 PM #111
puff adder
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You probably missed the rot when harvesting. Often the rot is deep in the middle, and easy to miss, and it continues after chopping while there's moisture inside.

I'd say the chances of losing more gets lower as things dry more, but you might want to check all the big nugs for rot.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:26 PM #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puff adder View Post
You probably missed the rot when harvesting. Often the rot is deep in the middle, and easy to miss, and it continues after chopping while there's moisture inside.

I'd say the chances of losing more gets lower as things dry more, but you might want to check all the big nugs for rot.
Thanks puff adder. I've had a root around and seen a thread about botrytis. I think it must have been down to unusually high RH during the flowering stage. I think it was around 60%, whoops.

I'll get cracking seperating the nugs out of the buds to aid drying and hope that does the job. I am pretty gutted as it is as they were pretty good sized colas :(

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Old 12-24-2012, 09:47 PM #113
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Here is a question about powdery mildew... Its a spore that gets airborne and can float to anywhere like a piece of equipment or walls. Things like that. How long can powdery mildew live for when it's not on a plant? 1 month? 6 months? 1 year???

Thanks and Merry Christmas to everyone
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:50 PM #114
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Originally Posted by takkada View Post
has anyone tried this product in flower .
i read on another site that it could
(gro-shop guy said so...go figure)
So when the guy did use it
the tops of the leaves got screwed up?

the 2oz can will treat 1500sqft so he probably concentrated it
in too small a space and its whats used in commercial greenhouses
the can say it can be used with plants in the area to be treated,
but precautions should be taken to test a few plants to see.
definitely would NOT use fungaflor on live plants in veg or bloom.
instructions mention nothing of being used on any food crops
and this stuff is a pretty nasty chem.

for us, imo, this should only be used between grows to
sanitized the room of spores.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:41 AM #115
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Originally Posted by Tactical Farmer View Post
Botrytis is out very quickly after these massive rain storms & this OMRI stuff isn't working.

Anyone having any luck slowing down these nasty spores ?

have you tried actinovate? it is OMRI listed, but the shit actually works. it's a microbe culture that can be applied up to and including the day of harvest. i know the idea of spraying anything on plants that are susceptible to mold may seem counterintuitive. the shit works though. unlike green cure, it won't burn the bejeezus out of your plants even if you spray it with the lights on/sun up. where serenade literally smells like shit, actinovate is clear and odorless. applied as a foliar, it's effective against bud rot and PM. applied to the roots, it helps with pythium. i believe it's also labeled for fusarium and a couple other things.

if you're ust over the natural remedies though, i recommend bayer flint. it's not cheap. it's a systemic fungicide that's labeled for agriculture use. it's very popular in commercial grape production. i believe the window for most food crops is 14 days before harvest. it's labeled for PM and botrytis alike.

on an aside, a good PM remedy that i've found is to use a 100ppm of silicate as a foliar.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:37 AM #116
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strange situation......it seems as if its in the coco balls (clay/lava rock) used in the DWC tubs, useing 4" plastic net cups. initially it seemed as if it was just hard water deposits.
in the past someone used 10, micro dropletts of bleach per 5gal to stop any algea growth in tubs.
how do you think it might work out ? suggestions would be greatfully accepted.

yes, the whole douching the rooms with bleach applications along with anti fungus products.

the air is being filtered,circulated and ionized to the max with unonairs 2, 5000's and a smaller 300

keeping everything as clean as possible

eagle20ew ?
meltatox (msds?)

oh,it has seemed to always start on medium sized leaves

thanks so much everyone !

be careful out there
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:41 PM #117
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Sulfur works 100% for me. had this issue long ago, burned elemental sufur during dark periods for 3 hours at a time, 4 times, 3 days apart. wiped out the pm. (indoors) it has never came back. before i tried safer, and ed rosenthals zero tolerance with no success. as a preventative i sulfur 1 time per crop. about 1 week into flower. i think this helps against botrytis also. havn't had much problem since. occasional grey mold bud, but tends to be one that gets a bit light burned.
keeping humidity below 40% is really most of the battle tho.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:58 PM #118
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I would like to know more about the enemy Powdery Mildew.

What is it's life cycle?

I understand that it takes minutes to recognize the host and attach itself. It progresses usually to petiole or leaf twisting and curling. Then to small white patches here and there predominantly on fan leaves. From there I have read it starts to spread across the plant stunting and deforming growth possibly preventing frutation. Then forms black and brown spores which will overwinter on plant material.

How long does it take to get to the overwinter stage?

Can it survive without material on surfaces of walls? How long? I have read water is enough to kill it if 100% saturation is achieved.

What is the dormancy time on nonsoil surfaces?

I have read thermal composting will not kill it. Over years? How about vermicomposting? Foliar EWC is supposed to combat it but is this do to saturation?

Possibly soaking infected material in large containers for extended periods and then composting?

How long will it stay in the soil? Specifically the strains that affect Cannabis Sativa L.

Can it be completely removed from a plant? I have heard stories that it even remains in seed.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:38 AM #119
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Light - Not Chemicals

I have studied the thread on mildew and budrot. May I suggest you consider this option, without chemicals:

In Canada: https://www.cleanlight.ca/hobby-garden

In USA: https://www.stoppowderymildew.com/

Thanks !
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Old 07-01-2013, 07:10 AM #120
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For the love of go do not use Eagle20 on flowering plants. Also, use a respirator because that shite is nasty. It will stink your whole f-ing house up. Seal your room.

Be safe everyone.
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