[rives]

The sub-panel that you purchased is 120/240, so it has separate feeds going to the downstream breakers. I would just jumper the two terminals together and feed them with the hot wire coming from your main. However, it is not code compliant to terminate two wires with a single lug. I can't tell from the picture if the stab that feeds the breaker is an integral part of the lugs, or if the lug is separate. If they are separate, you should be able to find either a "double barrel" lug that will have individual set screws for each conductor, or two separate lugs that will stack easily. The concern about using a single lug with one set screw and two conductors is that you may not get adequate tension on one of the wires, and wind up with a loose connection.

[iTarzan]

What is the stab and what is the lug?

I will jump it.

[iTarzan]

You are saying that the jumper wire and the main live wire would be two wires under the same set screw (LUG)?

[rives]

The lug is the set-screw terminal that the feed wire goes into. The stab is the piece that the breaker clips onto and provides the breaker with power.

No, to be code compliant, each terminal (lug) can only connect one wire unless it is specifically designed for 2 (or more) wires, in which case each wire would have a separate hole and set screw. The feed wire should have it's own lug, and the jumper wire should have it's own, and then they can be bolted together onto the buss work feeding the breaker. Alternatively, special lugs are available like below for two wires.

Examples -
https://solarconduit.com/shop/media/...1-03330w_3.jpg

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com...127_TE_003.jpg

[iTarzan]

I just checked. The stab and the lug are a single piece. It has a screw in the middle that holds them down on the plastic case.

[rives]

Lugs are universal (well, other than this panel...), but they will not have the stab on them - what you have is a proprietary Square D product. Square D may make a double lug for the panel, but it is unlikely. Your options are pretty limited with that panel that would be code compliant.

[iTarzan]

I am going to jump what I have. I will get a good connection with a twist and mash splice. LOL!

Thanks Rives.

[rives]

Good luck. Wiggle the wires around after you have the set screw tightened and make sure that you don't see any movement on either wire when you are looking up into the lug from the opposite direction that the wire is fed in from.

[iTarzan]

I had a perfect size scrap piece of the same black wire in the 10-2. I made the jumper. It is all very secure. Codes be damned! It works now. All is well. 15a could take 1800w. I will have a 1000w light/ballast and a 60w fan on one outlet and a 400w HPS, 400w LED and 60w fan on the other. Plenty of room to spare for some ancillary stuff like timers. Also room for replacing the 400w with another 1000w light.

[rives]

15a circuits won"t take 1800w continuously - you have to de-rate the circuit to 80% (1440w) for loads that last 3 hours or more. This gives some headroom to eliminate nuisance tripping due to manufacturing tolerances, ambient temperature, and voltage swings.