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| Forums > Marijuana Growing > Indoor Grows - Soil > A Complete Guide to Topping, Training and Pruning | ||
| A Complete Guide to Topping, Training and Pruning | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
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#121 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: my garden
Posts: 53
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nice thanks for the info i think i got it now. you explain it best as i have looked all over at info!
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#122 |
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Mad Scientist
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: The Lab
Posts: 459
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Thanks for the positive input guys. I appreciate it.
Your theory sound interesting Owl Mirror, you should start a thread on that subject once you have sorted out the details and done some testing. Happy Growing and Keep it Green
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#123 |
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Stillness in Motion
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 230
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Excellent guide Kodiak, quick question regarding pruning. I see pics of plants with multiple
huge colas, and I understand about trimming the bottom part of the plant, but what about all of the side shoots and side shoots growing off of side shoots? Does trimming these as well encourage more growth to whatever shoot youre working with? Or will trimming these side shoots decrease yield and is 4 weeks into flowerer too late to even worry about it? |
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#124 |
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Mad Scientist
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: The Lab
Posts: 459
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Hi Tuggo
It all boils down to how much light each node or branch gets. Although the plant usually supplies the topmost buds with most energy, it will also have to distribute it's energy somewhat evenly across the board. You can remove some of the lower shoots on the main branches in order for the plant to concentrate it's energy further up the line. You could for example remove all the growth from the bottom half of the plant. That way the plant can concentrate more energy to the top half, supplying the buds that receive the most light with enough energy. The buds that are left intact will therefore also mature at a faster rate since the plant directs more energy to these areas. Think of it this way; the more growth you remove, the more energy becomes available for the rest of the buds. How that affects the yield is difficult to determine since there are so many factors at play here. My advice is to look at the plant and how she grows, then remove a little bit of growth at the time until you find nothing more to remove. Picture in your mind how the plant will look and carefully select and remove the growth that you think will become energy sinks, which means that they drain more energy than they are worth. I hope that made sense. |
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#125 |
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Stillness in Motion
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 230
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Thank you kodiak, yes it made more than enough sense. Again thank you for this guide and your response, you have helped tremendously.
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#126 |
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sweet life must be somewhere to be found
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 53
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Nice job Kodiak! Very educational thread it is.
I am now subscribed. ![]() hf.
__________________
Under the virus, damn! https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=4319930&postcou nt=308 |
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#127 |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 9
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The clearest guide I have read on training, Excellent! By the way did you get to the castle anthrax yet (I'd be stuck there)
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#128 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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bump
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#129 | |
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Mad Scientist
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: The Lab
Posts: 459
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Thanks everyone, I'm glad that you liked it.
Training sure makes vegging a lot more interesting as there is more to do than usual. You have to give the plants enough time to adjust and grow strong. Patience is a virtue, it's the thing that you need most when dealing with plants. Happy Growing and Keep It Green Quote:
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#130 |
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Digging in the garden
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Down the Rabbit hole....
Posts: 301
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Well done Kodiak, nice name too ;-)
__________________
Always open for factual information. |
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