[eglider]

BTW Red , Great thread. Thanks for the effort, it's well appreciated. For a lot of us the science of air movement is limited to lifting a cheek a bit....

I also like your idea about using a cheap melamine garage cabinet. The perfect stealth grow unit in a pantry or a garage. Clean white interior, adj. shelves, hide intake in the toekick. Add a couple of elbow catches on one door, top and bottom and drill a 7/8" hole for an inconspicuous cabinet lock ("keep the kids out of the bugkiller granma") Put your random cardboard box on top to diguise the ventpipe or can filter.

As Martha would say ... "It's a good thing"

[ft100]

ok i have a ventilation ? for the gurus. i have a 4 x 8 tent setup. i have 2 canfan complete setups including fan and filter. I run 2 600 watt hoods in there. what is the best way to do this using my equipment. right now i have 1 fan and filter hooked up to each light. I was thinking of maybe putting one filter and fan on the lights alone and one filter and fan on the top of the inside of the cab? any ideas? thanks guys. peace and smoke.

[Dank Sinatra]

so which 6" centrifugal would i want to use,

the PV-150x which is rated 468 cfm and had way better sp than the comprable can fan https://www.solerpalaucanada.com/pdfs...t%20Series.pdf

or the elicents 150B whose performance can be found here

I can't tell whether the power vent would beat the elicent. I have heard elicents are the way to go, but powervent destroyed can fan for SP on the 6" models. On the 8" models not so much.

I was planning on using one to air cool 2 days star ac reflectors with 1000w each, r-6 insulated ducting and cool night time air. What do you think?

Thanks

Originally Posted by hoosierdaddy

I now use one of those duct boosters to keep my 400w + 150w lights cool in a tube. And it is quite enough to do that job. Two won't help much in that situation because there is very little pressure to deal with, and two wouldn't help matters in that situation.
(hope it makes sense why...red has explained it technically)

IMO, leave the boosters to boosting and doing what they are capable of doing. Get a decent inline fan to use with the scrubber.

Thanks for this post, I had one of those duct boosters a guy sold me for like $30, I was wondering if it would be enough to cool my 600w in a cool tube, if it cools 550 whats another 50w eh?

I also use the scythe 120mm fans in my PC and in rubbermaid "veg" box

[hoosierdaddy]

If you are just pulling air through the tube, then it should do the job. Those fans will not overcome much resistance at all, so you don't want lots of ducting and twists and turns. Make it as straight of shot as possible and the duct booster should be fine. Add a carbon filter, and the booster is a no-go.

THose 6" Suncourt boosters sell for like $27 at HomedePot.

Nice thread & information.

Thanks. I will probably pick up a couple more of the boosters, I will put 2 in series to increase [the amount of negative] static pressure and hedge my luck against a failing ductbooster ruining my crop. I think I'll keep the one I have with the 6" ducting pulling from my rubbermade and attach a little 8" duct on the intake to lightproof it, ventillation has been confusing / taking up my time but your explanation I found very terse and intuitive ( for those not understanding it, try smoking MORE and reading it a 2nd time, always works for me ;-) ). Either that or just "caveman" it and spend $100s on fans that wake up your neighbors and get you caught :-(

Wow I just had a sleight bend in my duct and I straightened it out, you really do underestimate how that affects the back pressure, the pitch of the fan changed dramatically indicating a huge difference in air-speed, just from removing a sleight bend.

You want to be careful of cutting your intake too large, sometimes a higher CFM thru a smaller opening is more beneficial. specifically if your lights are near the bottom of the container. This is because the air will take the shortest path, the larger your intake relative to the amount of air being pulled, the slower the air needs to move since there is more of it, this could negatively impact cooling if you are relying on air movement inside the cabinent generated from the vacum effect of the exhaust.



If you found you cut it too large you can just use duct tape to fine tune the shape of the opening. Having a fan near the intake blowing towards the lights helps but your fan may not generate the same air speed you could by designing the intake properly.

[Dank Sinatra]

what the hell does cave man it mean
hahahhaha