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Tea Article

mexweed

Active member
Veteran
the OP is incorrect in saying that it can't be over applied, you can 100% burn plants with too strong of a tea
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
the OP is incorrect in saying that it can't be over applied, you can 100% burn plants with too strong of a tea

Does this not depend if you are using compost tea or some other weird concoction? CT is about the microbes, not nutrients.
 

mexweed

Active member
Veteran
I make aact with fresh bananas instead of using molasses or the peels, insect frass, and seabird guano, all super common ingredients but the dogma for bananas is typically the peels

I was making 2 gallon batches and had never added any guano before as the insect frass is about 90% there as an all in one, the first time I added 1 tbsp of seabird guano per gallon to the brew and the plants looked like they started budding a bit more aggressively, so I decided to try 1.5 tbsp the next time and the leaf tips got crispy
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I make aact with fresh bananas instead of using molasses or the peels, insect frass, and seabird guano, all super common ingredients but the dogma for bananas is typically the peels

I was making 2 gallon batches and had never added any guano before as the insect frass is about 90% there as an all in one, the first time I added 1 tbsp of seabird guano per gallon to the brew and the plants looked like they started budding a bit more aggressively, so I decided to try 1.5 tbsp the next time and the leaf tips got crispy

In my book, guano is not compost unless composted.

Common ingredients? Which microbial population are you growing or trying to grow?
 

mexweed

Active member
Veteran
guano, worm castings, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, insect frass, banana peels, coffee grounds, molasses are among the most common ingredients talked about for aact, most guano people buy to brew with is already composted

my soil has 25 strains of endo/ecto, trichoderma, saccharomyces, and bacteria, the insect frass has protozoa to consume microbes and release the nutrients they contain from feeding on the food sources, it's a soil web and the microbes are just one part of it, a temporary carrier of nutrients
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
guano, worm castings, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, insect frass, banana peels, coffee grounds, molasses are among the most common ingredients talked about for aact, most guano people buy to brew with is already composted

my soil has 25 strains of endo/ecto, trichoderma, saccharomyces, and bacteria, the insect frass has protozoa to consume microbes and release the nutrients they contain from feeding on the food sources, it's a soil web and the microbes are just one part of it, a temporary carrier of nutrients

What sort of microscope do you use?
www.microbeorganics.com
 

chiesesganja

Well-known member
CT Guy

It's used as a surfactant in the horticultural world. It's also used for its saponin content which is kind of interesting because the EM-1 product also contains saponin.

It's also used in root beer (foaming action), shampoos, et al.

But I wanted tell you about an interesting experiment I recently finished and I was lucky enough to use one of your tea brewers.

When you make the 'bokashi inoculant' with the EM-1 product, it's usually made by mixing with either rice or wheat bran, allowed to ferment and then dried. It will last for years. You'll know that the fermentation (anaerobic) is completed when it hits a PH of 3.5 or lower which takes about 2-3 weeks depending on the ambient heat where you've placed your 'bokashi bins'

So a PH of 3.5 is pretty acidic and what most organic farmers do is dump this fermented sludge into a standard compost pile and within 2 weeks you won't be able to find a trace of the fermented material and the compost bin will be moving along like you wouldn't believe.

I have 4 ea. 4' x 4' worm bins, mostly for breeding worms and a standard worm composting bin (Can-0-Worms) for making teas. I have friends in the wholesale organic produce industry so getting high-quality food isn't a problem. By controlling the heat and PH of the worm breeding bins we get fantastic growth rate of the worm colonies.

I also add rock dust and crushed oyster shell (calcium carbonate) to keep the PH levels in check and I add some of the pure humic acid product, HumoSolve from Bio.ag

I wanted to feed the bokashi fermented to the worms but the extreme PH had me concerned so I decided to try another trick with your tea brewer.

I took a large tarp and layed it out in the heated barn (about 70F for the chickens and such), I spread out about 50 gallons of used potting soil that I mix up which was dried out pretty much. I dumped the barrel of bokashi compost in the middle and then mixed it as you would any compost pile. It need more moisture so I decided to mix up an aerated tea using your machine, compost from Earth Fortification, fish enzyme, powdered seaweed extract, cottonmeal, alfalfa, rock dust and some earthworm castings and I drenched the pile and left alone.

Within 2 weeks almost all of the fermented bokashi compost was gone, the used soil was completely free of any and all roots, etc.

When it was finished I added some pumice and some of this and that and placed in newly rooted cuttings and I was VERY impressed with the growth rate as well as their overall health.

I'm going to do some more playing around with the bokashi composting process with some chicken and swine manure and see how that works out.

CC
i use furit make bokashi .mix in soil 2 month they all gone the soil like the new soil .like you say those root gone too
 
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