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#1 |
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Seed Germination Techniques
I could have this conversation in a number of forums, but Im an outdoor grower and it's other outsiders that i seek to engage . Pot seeds are so expensive, and I see so many reports in forums about poor germination rates that I wanted to discuss this phenomenon.
Ive bought 117 packs of store bought seeds, from 11 different seed banks, but 80% came from 3 seedbanks. Of those seed packs, Ive recieved 1 pack of old seeds. I know of 2 other long time growers that report similar results. Its my sense that the overall seed market is relatively fresh and the odds of recieving a bad pack is 1 or 2 packs per hundred. 2% max. I count plants, not cracked seeds or runts, and Ive averaged 7.13 plants per pack over the years. Its my view that if you close your eyes and pick a 10 pack of seeds, there's a 96% chance you will get 7 plants from it. The seeds available on the market are generally good from my perspective. I have a bunch of experience at germination. I grew up on a tobacco farm and tobacco has many similarities to cannabis. Seedlings must be started and transplanted and mould is your greatest enemy. We started our own tobacco seedlings, 250,000 per year, and by the time I was 18, I had started millions of seedlings. I know how to start seeds and what makes them grow. When I started growing pot, I just transfered the knowledge and experience I already possessed. That knowledge consisted of the following: Seed germination requires 1. Moisture- not too much, not too little 2. Temperature- Critical. No shows and runtsville. 3. Light stimulation. Unless your trying to grow eyes on your potatoes, darkness plays no role in seed germination. Most plants grow in the light. When these 3 components are provided, seeds respond as they have been programmed to do for millions of years. Implentation of these components will always result in good germination rates and plant health. Perhaps you can imagine my suprise years ago, when I began reading the recommendations of cannabis authorities for germination as soaking seeds in water or paper towels, IN THE DARK!! of all places, and it's not unusual to see the method suggested today and of growers using it. There is rarely a single mention of of temperature, no mention of light stimulation even though both issues are everybit as critical as moisture.. Its my contention that the paper towel method or any method that doesnt emphasize moisture, temperature control and lighting is lacking critical components. Grower luck and skill notwithstanding this approach will never result in high/consistent germination rates of healthy plants. While many report good results with this terribly flawed approach, its due to human determination to succeed even under less than perfect circumstances, not because its a good way to start seeds. Im interested in the view of others. Last edited by silverback; 12-15-2008 at 12:18 PM.. |
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#2 |
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all praises are due to the Most High
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: All Fantastica rests on a foundation of forgotten dreams
Posts: 2,999
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good day silverback
![]() you raise good points for sure; specially regarding a proper and constant temperature, which are ideal circunstances, as well as light stimulation. however, I cannot help but ask how in nature do constant temperatures as well as light stimulation are present? that is, in nature, there are no 24 hours of continous flourecent light, nor constant temperature 24/7, even in the most template zones, everyday there are changes of at least a couple of degrees between night and day tempts. the way I have been germinating cannabis seeds with a similar sucess rate to yours, perhaps higher, is by first soaking the seeds in a cup of plain fresh water, with neutral pH, then I add a few drops of H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). then I place the cup of waters with the soaking seeds in a room that has an opened window, which allows air-circulation as well as a lot of day-light and warm to enter the room. at night the window is closed, since temperatures drop significantly. between 24 hours and 72 hours, seeds will crack open showing their little tap-root; then using a spoon previously cleaned with alcohol, I carefully spoon-up each individual seed along with a little bit of water, so the seed floats on the water in the spoon without stress. then I gently pour the little water with the seed into the first medium, in a small pot. usually the medium is a canadian vermiculite that is sterile, which has been very well irrigated prior to planting. The planted seeds in the small pots filled with vermiculite then go to a sort of balcony, where they get all the day-light and day-warmth the pseudo-balcony has to offer, at night they receive no artificial light nor artificial warmth either. the seeds usually come through the medium very vigorous, seeking after the light and warmth irradiating from the window; then they are moved into their final location, wherever that may be... much peace and health
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#3 |
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Moderator
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Location: In spite of my rage I am still just a rodent in a cage
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I want to stress the importance of using REVERSE OSMOSIS water during the critical phase of seed germination and very small seedling phase.
Just say "no" to any jug of "distilled" water or even "spring" water......i found out the hard way that many brands of spring water contain excess salts which will totally throw your pH out of whack.....many seeds were sacrificed to bring you this knowledge, so take heed and learn from a wise old guineapig..... ![]() Now that i read Paz's post, i will probably try a drop of H2O2 as well..... DrBud swears that some varieties of cannabis seed need a drop in cold to trigger the germination process......i have also scuffed seeds with sandpaper to stimulate germination, but i haven't really noticed a dramatic effect from scuffing..... On other sites i've read some good germination techniques.....we should put together the absolute definitive thread about seed germination, make a list of the specific supplies needed, and include lots of pictures so that everyone in the world can germinate with confidence!!!!! kind regards from guineapig
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1 members found this post helpful. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 220
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My method is pretty fullproof minus a pack of 7 year old seeds that didnt a single one germ. I am prolly like 48/50 or better with commercial seeds. 12 hours in the fridge is step one. next drop them in a glass of slightly warm water (never used anything but tap water) with a dash of liquid karma or maxicrop. i mean literally less than a droplet. after the seeds sink (12ish hours) i put them in very loose EWC and perlite mixture about 1/2 or so under the soil. I like to watch moisture very close, i want to stay always moist but never wet, and certainly never dry. After 24-48 more hours the seeds begin breaking the surface and showing themselves. I like 17-7 light with flouros as well.......
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#5 |
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We'll float.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Next to the Thumb.
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Paz, outside soil temps dont fluctuate as much as air temps, air temps will affect blotting paper tissue & small pots far more. When soil temps rise in spring it can take a few days of bad weather to change this. The change is far more gradual. Stratification or Vernification, some times it helps to simulate a winter period, loads of berries need this before they will germinate. Maybe with outdoor varieties it can help germination. Anyone done this?
Last edited by Fingaz2; 12-15-2008 at 08:02 PM.. |
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#6 |
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germinating
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#7 |
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Mourning the loss of my dog......
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: South-west Oregon
Posts: 2,780
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I take a paper towel, fold it 3-4 times, wet it, put my seeds in, fold it one more time, place it in a ziplock, put a dribble of extra water in, and tack it to the wall up high in a spot in the house where temps stay around 70F or better.
Nearly all the seeds go eventually, even when 3 years old. Back when I ran a areo-cloner, I would put the ziplock in it, and lock the lid over the top of the bag to hold it in place. Worked like a charm! Here is a sample from my 2007 Grow thread- After using several different methods of starting seeds, I have settled on a favorite method- I start by marking a snack size zip-lock bag with the strain being started- I then soak a paper towel in water and fold it 3-4 times, and place seeds on its surface- I fold the paper towel over the seeds and place the towel in the correct bag, the zip-lock is then hung in a warm place with a tack, and checked daily- Germination usually happens in 1-4 days. As seeds show the tell-tale white root of germination I pull them out of the towel and place them root down in 8oz solo cups of seedling mix potting soil- The seeded cups were placed under shop lights, which are available at Wal-mart and most hardware stores for $8-$15. And here is a sample from my 2008 grow thread- For germination, I start by folding a paper towel 3 times, and wetting it. Then I lay my seeds to be germinated on it. Now I fold the paper towel one more time, and slide it into a ziplock bag marked with the strain name. Now I take the bag and tack it to the wall at eye level in a area of the house where it is comfortable warm enough to wear a T-shirt. I check the bag everyday until I see white roots starting to poke through the seed pods, it usually takes 1-4 days. In this picture I show a variety of started seeds, the 2 seeds at the end of the pen are perfect length, the seeds around the pen are acceptable, the seeds on the far right are getting a bit too long and will be hard to handle without damaging the delicate roots. Now I get some 16oz Solo cups, I trim a small sliver off the corners of each as shown, and mark the cup with the name of the strain. Now I fill the cups with a good quality potting soil meant specificly for seedlings, in this case Jiffy brand seedling mix, but almost and potting soil will work. I thoroghly wet the soil, and fill the cups firmly but not to packed. Now I use a pen to poke a hole into the soil for the sprouted seed. Now I carefully place the seed with the root down, and carefully pack soil around it until the seed pod is just visable at the surface.
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Last edited by BACKCOUNTRY; 12-15-2008 at 09:32 PM.. |
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1 members found this post helpful. |
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 85
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thats too much work. do it like nature:
my method: one 0,2l teku.container per seed (ok, thats not so natural) insert your healthy, fluffy compost, fill it up to 50 percent. it needs to be a little moist pinch a lil' hole, put the seed in it. dont bury it! spray some water on the seeds. (maxbe with some superthrive, this stuff kickstarts seeds like nothing else :O) wrap some transparent foil over the containers. pinch some air holes put in a warm, well lit place. think about it, its like a little greenhouse, like with momma nature. the seeds drop, lie around for a while and when time is right, they'll probably sprout under some other low growing plants where there is a nice microclimate. this works with rockwool and other media the same. |
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#9 |
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all praises are due to the Most High
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: All Fantastica rests on a foundation of forgotten dreams
Posts: 2,999
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guineapig, hello man
good to read youregarding the water issue, the water I use is the one provided by the city, the water is collected from glacial lagoons/rivers, then treated to make it potable, and pumped to tanks and from tanks to homes, the pH of the water is always between 6 and 7, and the water is clean, although in hard rain season, it can come with a little soil in it. they add some kind of clorine to the water, sometimes when they cut the water service to do repairs, which is very often, when the water comes back on, it has excess clorine, the water comes bubbling white, so white some times it looks like skim milk, although bubbling very fast as the clorine leaves the water. so I always collect this water in some clean plastic containers and let it sit under the sun for several hours before I use it for cultivation purposes. the water should contain enough minerals considering the source, but not sure. try the H2O2 for sure, it helps keep things clean. medicine farmer, the data you give regarding the depth of planting, 1/2 what? inches or centimeters? the planting depth is an important thing to get right to get good germination rates. If one plants too shallow, the plant usually starts to fall off when it starts to grow because the roots are too shallow at first, one can remedy this, but it is best to get them started right from the start... too deep they may not even come up through the soil and just rot down there. good point bringing it up. Fingaz, um you are right, in plastic grow-bags things should get colder or warmer sooner than in pots too. also we have to consider that the seed is not planted too deep and that the soil the seed likes is a soil that is packed lightly, well aerated and with the proper humidity which is neither too wet nor too dry. would not this soil surface be affected much quicker by air-temp changes? here in the tropics, during the seasson of very cold nights (depending on elevation too), if one tries to germ by an opened window without closing it at night, the soil will get real cold too, specially if it is pure vermiculite with some perlite in it in a small pot. also, if I leave the pot with the seed not yet arisen from the soil in direct sun light, it also gets very hot and dries too quickly in that medium and pot size, so just with the sky-light shining through the window during the day is enough for the plant to want to come up through the soil seeking after the light, but once it is through the soil, it is irrigated a bit and placed under direct sun light. ... paz
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"spread a little love and let the blessing go around..." ...so what u rep don? |
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#10 |
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Get two birds stoned at once
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NOCO
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The paper towel method does not work for me, 80% of seeds started this way are eaten by mold in my case. Just unlucky to have a LOT of spores around.
What I find works best for a high mold area is to sow in living soil in a sunny very well ventilated spot. I say living soil because with friendly/benign fungus and bacteria around there is no space for the baddies to set up and devour seeds (damping off). Too much moisture will drown seeds and the good micro heard you have going and throttle down the Oxygen that you want in and around your soil/seed. So you really want a good mix of air and water, thats also why ventilation and fresh air are really good IMO. I do believe light is a great thing, so sow as shallow as possible or even leave half the seed exposed as long as there is no danger of it drying out. I think sunlight helps prevent mold, seems the UV kills mold and pathogens. The light also helps give a little radiant heat to the top of the soil which seeds love. So I guess it boils down to the fact that you want moist, oxygenated, living soil that gets a little light/heat. The amounts are a feel thing IMO and that comes from experience.
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