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Old 05-21-2005, 04:21 AM #31
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verry nice
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Old 05-30-2005, 03:10 AM #32
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the Collecting part

Aloha,

I collect Pollen with the help of a piece of clean glass.

The male should be dry and have been in a wind free environment for a few days if possible.


Gently with both limb and cutters secure, snip as gently as possible the portion you think you need. I usually just (gently) snip off the top two feet.

Place on clean glass. tap. Snap. flick. whack the pollen off the plant.


You will also see male flowers and various greenies. Lift and wiggle the glass and these will all go off. They have moisture and will be dangerous if left in the mix.

scrape up your pollen and store in a dry place. I use rice paper rolling papers as moisture absorbers. works for me.

This is for some friends.

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Old 06-23-2005, 08:49 PM #33
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I use wax paper to collect pollen, cheap and easy, and I tip the wax paper slghtly after collecting pollen and let the debris fall off

gel caps are great for storing pollen, you can divide your pollen up into several gel caps and put them in the fridge briefly then into the freezer and just pull a gel cap as needed

for cutting pollen (to extend it's coverage) the best thing I've found you can mix it with is some old/dead/not viable pollen, using flour can cause mold especially outdoors

for sending pollen I recommend folding up a piece of wax paper, vacuum sealing it and sending it express if possible
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Old 07-19-2005, 01:21 PM #34
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Very nice thread !

excellent info everyone man do i love learning this stuff 3ld
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Old 08-05-2005, 07:07 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypergrl420
This may be stupid, but how do you know the seeds are fully grown in the bud?
Basically, seeds need about 30 days after pollenation to mature. If you hit pistils about 2 weeks after they start forming flowers and then allow at least 6 weeks from that point, you should usually have good seeds. Another indication they are done is that they will practically "fall out' of the pod. If you find yourself "peeling" the covering off with difficulty, a lot of the time you're taking them too soon. When they've lost any and all green color you know you're close or totally there.

Pollen Storage:
Most fridges have lots of moisture in them. I wouldn't put pollen in a fridge. I've been told pollen can last several months, even a year+ if stored properly. Lots of indicating silica gel and cool (not frozen) temperatures. The source was very experienced, so I'm thinking it's true. I've used pollen stored with this method (kept cool but not in a fridge or freezer) that was 4 weeks old and had great success, but never tried anything later than that.

A good visual indicator of pollen's viability is it's color. When fresh, pollen is such a bright yellow color that it almost looks flourescent, it practically glows. Pollen that's stored really well should look exactly the same as it did the day it was collected. Dead pollen usually turns a darker color and looks different than it did when fresh. This isn't a "for sure" rule, but it's a good general one to use.

Take care everybody.
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Old 09-23-2005, 04:27 PM #36
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Old 09-23-2005, 06:02 PM #37
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Put your polen on the fridge on something that is air sealed, that's it.

After ruining DP Mazar and JLP's Cindy haze on less than 4 weeks on the fridge, I've managed to keep some DP skywalker polen on the fridge for more than 3 months before using it all.

Now, I've had JLP's G13 bx in the fridge for about a month and still dusty, not blocky..
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Old 09-24-2005, 09:17 AM #38
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Thanks to lucifer Ive been using wax paper collection with an immediate wax paper rub / smash spawn with 100% success, in the big room, with nothing flying around very good, very simple.

Next test dessicant dry and freeze the pollinated wax paper.
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:25 AM #39
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I don't know if telepod is still around, but thanks for the research, great info, and at just the right time...my BBJack just sexed Male And I didn't want to waste these genetics, so I am going to collect and store all the pollen I get get from "the Man"



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Old 12-07-2005, 02:39 PM #40
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I'd recommend cutting branches on the male, instead of collecting pollen. Keep the flowers with intact pollen sacks, and collect the pollen only when you need it (just before you pollinate). This way you're sure the stuff is still viable (pollen from cut male branches remains viable for at least two weeks, even if the branches look quite dry).

I've sent 2-3 week old pollen by mail several times (in paper), and I'm afraid it never worked. I believe the best way to ensure viability/fertility is to keep intact flowers (even closed, green ones, provided they're big enough) and use them at the last minute.

Just a thought.
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